it's hard to say what will be best with the 2 spacers, depending on the fit, if i recall the boondox are made to fit to the coil spring, you may have to chop them both to get 2 flat surfaces that can be stuck together.  i did not glue my heep spacers to jdmcrx's, they work well as they are now.  i'll post some pics when i can of the 2 spacers together among other things.

For the rear spacers there maxed out at 2.25" in ther rear then u arepassed the rear bumpstop. we did 2.5 in the rear with a different bump stop but the rear brake line is mazed out i had to pull the shocks tight as possible to prevent the rear brake line from getting ripped out.

I have a company making me new brake lines we are gonna try with a 3" rear lift.

I will advise.

For the rear spacers there maxed out at 2.25" in ther rear then u arepassed the rear bumpstop. we did 2.5 in the rear with a different bump stop but the rear brake line is mazed out i had to pull the shocks tight as possible to prevent the rear brake line from getting ripped out.

I have a company making me new brake lines we are gonna try with a 3" rear lift.

I will advise.

how about sending atv & me the rest of our lift that we paid for well over half a year ago

Honestly Josh I am surprise you have the odassity to show up on this board trying to prosepect potential customers

With the history from myself and others, you honestly have no CREDIBILITY on this Forum and likely none from the other big zuki ones

You tried to establish yourself and well... you did... you showed your ethics and likely your age


To me, this whole ordeal has been more of an anoyance than even an inconvenience. Not only did I have to persue though multiple channels of communication to even get a hold of you, you have the balls to send us incomplete kit? Did you think we'd be that niave?

Just like ATV - I ordered tires, which have sat on my porches for 6 months thanks to you with brand new rims that are collecting rainwater as we speak!

I also wanted to give you a try, as I figured... hey a Canuck, lets support the small guy and give him a chance!
Well you sure showed me and the entire audience on this forum buddy!


just an FYI for everyone:

This is the email paper trail:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yeah no prob. Ok straight to get the lift on order a set of rancho RS 5158 shocks i can get them at 79each plus tax see what u can get them for.
 
Start putting ur stuff on the front the upper strut tower spacers u can wait tell after. Put the front spacers on and bumpstops on and the rear. the rear shocks i use rancho cause there valving is supior to others. ive tried different ones and never had one prob. I have now over 50,000km on this lift. CE1_2NR has over 20,000 on his and loves it.
 
The front strut spacers i use for a reason. If u look at the points from a geometry point the struts rod spacers they sell the point of ur strut is still the same location and u will camber in too much and when u use those camber bolts to correct the camber the upper top of the strut binds causeing side load on the strut seals and bushing.
 
All u have to do is cut the strut brace with a hack saw 20mm and get it rewelded. Its supper simple.
 
Ill send u the strut spacer and the 1.5" strut tower bar spacers hopefuly tuesday.
 
Josh

"Chan, Paul H" <paul.h.chan|removethispart|@eds.com> wrote:
I do not use my paypal account so just send the strut spacers
I just want what I paid for



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Josh Beauchamp [mailto:jpbauto|removethispart|@yahoo.ca]
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 10:57 AM
To: Chan, Paul H
Subject: RE: Paul Chan - LIFT KIT


Paul just thgouth of something the spacers are on there way back from bc. I can either refund u $60 or i can wait tell the spacers come in. Let me know cause i have the 60 in paypal now or i can just send the spacers
 
Jsoh

"Chan, Paul H" <paul.h.chan|removethispart|@eds.com> wrote:
I posted all I needed to say on zukiworld.com for sale column
 
you did not send me the strut spacers (the aluminum ones) nor the nuts\bolts and the instructions



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Josh Beauchamp [mailto:jpbauto|removethispart|@yahoo.ca]
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 4:48 PM
To: Chan, Paul H
Subject: RE: Paul Chan - LIFT KIT


Hey paul.
 
Have u gotten anything yet??
 
Josh

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

What I have pasted above was an email sent to me the day after he sent me the package using FedEx express... This package was not sent using UPS unlike  the "FAKE" UPS tracking number that he provided in the for\sale thread

Also, I have highlighted what he stated about using the coil extenders....
This is where I am weary... as how can I trust Josh's comments regarding welding the strut bar instead of just ordering the boondox strut spacers?

Allrighty so this weekend we installed the front lift on my trackvit
boy like what everybody said... it was kinda a pain in the ass, but with a couple buddies, some beer and air tools, it was not too horrible

We basically started like this.

Jacked the car up by the center cross member
Removed the wheels
Unbolted the swaybar and let it swing down
Unhooked the tie arm and ball joint
Unhooked the brake caliper (used some wire and hung it around anything we could find that would keep slack on the line)
removed the front hub which required just the removal of the cap, then 6 bolts and a Circlip, -> pain in the butt as we didn't have c-clip pliers so I had to run out to buy them
jacked up the control arm/a arm and unbolted the strut and strut mount
slowly let down the a arm until the spring was unloaded (didn't need compressors and it was acctuality quite safe due to the long bumpstops)
Unbolted the lower portion of the struts
pulled off the "spindle" and had to unhook it from the controller arm
Pulled out the spring, removed the stock rubber isolator, and used a channel lock on the bumpstop
Put in the 1/4" bumpstop extendered, pushed the 1.5" coil spacer in, and finally the spring with the stock isolator

took out the strut --- had the top bolt (of the bottem 2) "filled" 6mm towards the strut

tried mounting in the 1.5" aluminum strut mount -> now this was a bitch...
#1 I used Josh's aluminum strut mount as opposed to the bolt on top extender that boondox has because.... It didn't come in yet

Okay well... the 8.8m bolts that came with the "kit" were too short... had to find some longer 8.8m bolts
The 8.8 bolts that came with the kit also were too wide in diameter as opposed to the holes that were drilled out of the aluminum spacer
That had to be drilled out and luckily my buddy that helped me out had a drill press readily available
Also with Josh's strut spacer you have to either drill a little hole for the strut notch, or knock it off... I drilled the hole

Okay... so basically from that point, put the strut spacer in, above the stock strut mount, bolt them in and reverse the order of assembily

So far I have this scenerio:

The Lift does look fabulous and has only a little bit of negative camber on the CV's
but I have ran into the following problems


1. I have "positive" camber on the wheels.... obviously this needs to be adjusted, but the scary thing was, following Josh's write up, I filled 6"mm towards the strut, and when we re-assembled the front strut, we pushed the spindle as far into the strut as we could when we tightned the top strut bolt... I am not sure if I can even adjust them any further, or if I need to buy new struts and camber bolts

2. I don't know if this is a car "setteling" issue or not, however the front I belive sits closer to 3/4" higher than the rear lift w/ the 2" coils spacers

3. Well I have no strut bar, I really should have used the boondox bolt on strut extenders... Josh's aluminum strut spacer drops the mount bracket by the 1.5" and makes it impossible to install the strut bar as it has a different angle and sits too low, so the bar cannot clear my intake manifold.
He included these 2" roughly metal sleves to put a longer bolt to extend the strut bar... again he measured too short and they just won't work
So I might use his "engineered sleves and just find some longer 8.8m bolts
OR Do ya'll think that maybe the strut bar is not really required at all?

Seeing how I have the boondox strut extenders on order, is it possible to still install it on the vehicle to have extended the strut another 2"? Steve from Boondox had said that even the vehical in stock form can use the 2" spacers as the struts have enough travel and the bumpstops should be long enough so the weight will not bottem on the strut

Anyways thanks in advanced

Also Kudos to Neil (Ngrover) for helping me this weekend

From Josh's kit I will admit 1 thing
The coil spacers he lathed are fantastic. They are the proper measurements fro the top notch, outside and inside diameters.
Asides from that... well
I am not sure if the bumpstop extenders will do much and the aluminum spacers were nice but not drilled out properly....

For my $300CAD, w/o rear shocks that I paid Josh that I had to wait 6 months for, I really should have went another route..
FYI that was for 4" coil spacers, 4 1/4" bumpstop "washers", 2 strut boots, and 2 1.5" machined aluminum spacers and bolts

Ngrove bought some of diggers 2" rears while he was making them and 1.5" for the front, plus the boondox bolt on strut extenders
which gives him the exact same lift as mine w/ less hassle as the strut extenders use the stock mount height for a grand total
of $70 for the coil spacers from digger and $64 for the boondox strut extenders


Currently I am using Crown Vic sensatrac rear shocks and running no strut bar w/ slightly positively cambered front tires

So far it drives nicely, and it looks like I need to find a solution for my strut bar (hopefully just longer bolts) and to figure a way to adjust the camber on my front wheels

toss the spacers on the top if you have the extensions, this will just make your life easier.  the strut brace stiffens up the front end a lot and you'll wish it were there.