Does anyone know if the the injector is high or low impedence, I know it's 50 PPH but I am adding another injector but it has to match the factory one ( hi or low imp).

 Couldn't find using the search??

 thanx
 Steve.

Low impedance |removethispart|@1.4R, 2.76mH. How are you planning on adding the extra injector? The stock driver is a fairly tricky circuit.

 I ordered a digtal pulse adjuster, it mimics the orginal injector and is as said " adjustable".
So I should not have problems at idle or cold start up ( tune to come on after throttle or load is applied)

 All I have to do is find an injector close to the same rate as the original.

Steve.

I ordered a digtal pulse adjuster, it mimics the orginal injector and is as said " adjustable".
So I should not have problems at idle or cold start up ( tune to come on after throttle or load is applied)

 All I have to do is find an injector close to the same rate as the original.

Steve.

Interesting, have you got a link for that?

 My dad found the site ( close to retirement & needs hobbies )

 jaycarelectronics.com

 look under "kit listings" then silicon chip section, about 100 different DIY projects for cars, it's like a megasquirt set-up for poor poeple ( like me )

 let me know what you think??

 Steve.

They don't tell you much. Are you sure you need to match the original injector? Do they take injector power from the ECU or elsewhere?
I would have thoght that a High-Z injector would have been easier to set up. The stock injector does need a few tricks to get decent performance out of it. The problem is that it is very slow to turn off. I measured mine at around 3ms but it does depend on how much current you put through it, you need the minimum amount necessary to keep it open plus a bit of a safety margin. It needs around 5A to turn it on with an overshoot at around 8A, IIRC it needs a holding current of around 2A. You do need to drop the current I burnt one out when I turned it on with the PWM disabled.
The stock driver reverses the voltage across the injector at turn off which sucks the current out of it and makes it a lot quicker. The turn off time is the minimum time that the injector will be on so you can't go from 0 to whatever, only 2-3mS to whatever so if you're running two injectors you will get a sudden enrichment. You would need to ensure that any external circuitry is protected against the reverse voltage on turn off. I haven't measure the stock driver, I expect it to be around -50 to -60V. I run a faster driver and get around -150V!

  DAMN Rhinoman! Is "Rocket Scientist" also one of your titles besides engineer?

My dad said there was an artical but I could not find it either, he had a magazine that gives a complete explaination and even a full lay out of the circuit board.
 You could go to radio shack / electronic supply store and make this but the timer is only 50 bucks CDN and the hand held programmer is only 60 bucks CDN so it's not worth it.
 
 I don't need a match to the factory one just something with a simmilar flow rate(the bigger the better), the artical says it intercepts the signal from the ECM on the ground side, mimics it for the extra injector(unless you program other wise) but I think it's topped out at 5A not sure,I'll read again.

The mag was called "preformance electornics for cars" Australian mag from same company, I don't know Auzzy money but the mag was $19.95

 Steve.

Give it a go and see how you get on. If you don't need a match to the stock injector then I have a listing of Bosch injector sizes on my ECU site

http://www.btinternet.com/~j_holland/

If you click on Schematics and then select Injector P from the table it will take you to the Injector stuff.