The rig is a 1990 auto kick.
The installation itself went OK, but the problems showed up during the following week.

1. It looks like the auto tranny got "loose" when it shifts from 2 to 3. It shifts very slow, and the RPM goes way up (like when a clutch is sliping...). I have to take my leg off the pedal, and only after the RPM goes down, the 3rd gear get "locked".
I've checked all the vacuum lines and they are all in good condition.
Do I need to adjust the 'kick down cable" after a B/L?
Can a mis-adjust cable cause this shifting problem?

2. The body seems to "sag" and the rubber discs are a bit free. I can turn the lower one by hand, and one of them even have a "gap". I've checked the nuts they are all closed tight.

3. As you can see in the pics, one of the studs got bent, so I really need some help quick.







Tnx

Doron

This may help... take a look at this months' article on Sky's Offroad Designs Bodylift install... It may give you some answers...

http://www.zukiworld.com/month_120104/feature_sky_bodylift_install.htm

Good Luck, Eric

OK, the pics in the link showed me that my wife was right....
I AM an idiot    
I'll put the spacers in its proper location this time  

Now, what about the tranny?

Any ideas?

A misadjusted kickdown cable will cause
the engine to shift at the wrong times, tho
I don't think this is a factor, you may want
to check the adjustment.

I never had any problems with the trans
when I installed my 4" body lift, but you
could have stretched the cable or somthing

Wild

Hmm, i put mine in like in your pictures with the stock rubber pad at the top of the 2" spacer but I see they put theirs at the bottom on that link, that make any difference?

Mine seems to make a lot of creaking noises even though they seem to be tight...

Pictures of how I did my install here on the Zuwharrie BBS:
(its on a X90 of course)

http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,11110.0.html

I did mine like yours. Could be wrong, who knows with virtually no instructions. Seems to be working fine but I did put locktite on mine after seeing they had worked loose.

Well, I guess the problem is that the spacer is "sinking" into the rubber pads when it is installed between them.
The long nut, however, is tightened against the shoulder of the stud, so it's a fixed length. That's why it get loose and make all that skwiking noises, even when the nuts are tight.
If the spacer will be installed above the rubber, it will have less effect on it, and the lift will hold itself better.

Thinking of it - why is the spacers diameter only 2" and not 3" ??   That way it would fit the rubber diameter and wont "sink" into it...    :-/

Is there any technical issue that I've missed?

Doron