hey guys never taken kick ones out yet are ther any c clips that i need to worry about or is it just undo driver sid from diff and pull back wards and passenger side pull of hub and pull out of diff type of thing.

thanks

oh and  i am doing my spacer lift 2 inches of lift,after i flip the mount how much washers can i use to space out for droop b4 cvs bcome in danger of binding.

There are c clips holding the outer stubs into the wheel hubs, but the inners just upbolt(drivers side) and pry out (passenger side) of the diff.

Z

There are c clips holding the outer stubs into the wheel hubs, but the inners just upbolt(drivers side) and pry out (passenger side) of the diff.

Z

I believe there is a little spring ring on the passenger side (thats in Left Hand Drive nomenclature...) that compresses when you pry the CV assembly out.   It should be a bit hard prying at first, but once you compress that spring, it'll slide right out.

And to add to what they have said, the circlip at each outer end is under the hub, not inside it like Sammies. Just unbolt the entire lock-in/out hub from the rotor/wheel studs without taking the cap off of it and just slide the whole locking hub off the end of the CV. Then you can remove the clip with a snapring tool(spreading kind, not compressing). There might also be a spacer washer under the clip, take it off too so it doesn't fall off when you pull the cv shafts...

Oh, and about your strut mount flip question, you can probably space it down1/4 to 1/2". I have used poly spacers that were basically 1/2" thick washers and they worked fine and allowed me to get the strut mounts bolts on nice and tight without deforming the stamped steel mount against the strut tower(the mount has a curved edge and can crush if there is no spacer of some kind put in there). I would suggest not using front coil spacers taller than 1-1/2". Even 1-1/2" front spacers will lift the front of the truck 2-1/4" thanks to the lever/fulcrum effect of the front IFS... Putting in taller spacers without lowering the front diff puts extra stress on the CV cages. It might work fine for a little while, but reliability of the CV joints will be questionable. They will eventually fail if stressed too much, too long...

Bump for the deleted re post 

thanks guys that lets me know everything i need to know ... i will take b4 and after shots for reference.....and i am also trying to get a set of rims, I want my tires to be just outside of the wheel well.  the spacer are  rear 2inch and 1.5 on  front i think, will have to recheck that again maybe 1.25 on the front.  i have new cv's that i will put in and then i will be able to beat up the truck again, i also have a new catalytic....snifff ah smell pretty again. oh and then the body work just a few holes to patch. i want the water to stop coming in thru the floor!

and then once this is done i will replace it with a gv next summer.