Conversely, I would tighten the bolt before the epoxy (JB-Weld, quick-metal, liquid-steel, etc) hardens. There is enough force during tightening to crack or fracture the hardened epoxy should any shifting/movement occur. Once the pulley has been torqued down and seated into place, the material can harden and allow it's full strength to prevent any future movement. If the hardened epoxy got fractured during tightening, it's strength would be compromised.
The only problem may be if the pulley shifts too much during tightening, the epoxy may be forced out of the worn keyway to the extent that too little remains to do the job. You want the pulley keyway to be as well aligned to the crank keyway as possible, and STAY that way while tightening. You want the bolt to turn into the crank and not twist the pulley around with it. The trick is to keep the crank and the pulley aligned while screwing in the bolt. You can use a little lube between the surface of the bolt head and the pulley surface to prevent them from binding.
To keep the crank and pulley from turning, put the car in high gear and block the wheels or run it up against a wall or something to keep the engine from turning. Or put a pipe wrench on the driveshaft. THEN hold onto the pulley to keep IT from turning. Then cross your fingers while you torque that sucka down!
Or something like that.