Just finished putting a new fuel filter on the Shuttlecraft and thought I'd sit down and bang out a few lessons learned while the smell of raw fuel was still fresh in my mind. First, don't bother simply pulling the fuse for the fuel pump; go ahead and take the time to pull the fuel pump relay from under the dash near the ECM. I'm not going to pretend to know why, but I learned if you want a nice 87 octane bath, just pulling the fuse is the way to go!!  With the fuel pump relay pulled, I only had to deal with a couple ounces of fuel, not a pint or so.  Next, take a minute to put a little 3 in 1 oil on the fittings before wrenching on them; the fuel filter is in a good spot to pick up all kinds of nasties from the road and the oil makes a big difference. Wear safety glasses; any fuel that drips will hit the axle housing and go everywhere.  Take a couple minutes the day before you do the swap and thoroughly hose out the underside of your rig; any dirt clinging to the undercarriage will go straight into the old eyeballs (see note about safety glasses...lol).  For tools you will need 11/16" and 3/4"
wrenches, a 10mm socket for removing the bracket and opening the pressure relief fitting on the the fuel line inlet to the filter, and possibly a 11/16ths socket on a *long* extension for removing the inlet side fuel hose (I couldn't get the right angle with the wrench, so I used a socket from the off side of the pumpkin; sounds complicated but you'll get the idea when you get under there).  Figure about 45 minutes if you've never done it before, but next time will be about 30 at the most. Almost forgot: the new filter was a smaller diameter than the old filter, so if you have an old innertube laying around you may be able to use it as a shim. A couple wraps of duct tape should also do the trick.  Ramps will help a lot, even if you aren't well insulated like me.  
 Hope this helps anyone who is contemplating changing their filter but wasn't sure what was involved; feel free to ask questions if I didn't explain everything.  

All sounds about right and like good advice!
Thanks for sharing.

My wife's GV has hose clamps, instead of those nice pressure fittings.  Every time I change her fuel filter, I get a 91 octane bath.  

I changed mine last week when I put the newer tank on.  The side close to the tank came apart okay after spraying it down with PB Blaster.  The engine side was a bit of a bear.  The filter housing was bent slightly so I couldn't get a wrench on the inside to hold the filter.  After bending it a bit I was able to get a wrench on.  In the process of loosening the clamps that hold the filter both bolts broke off so now I cannot reattach the housing to the frame.  Is this necessary?  I wonder because the filter is securely attached to fuel pipe on both sides.  

You could use a cupla big zip ties just so it dont flop around or rattle, could cause excessive wear on the fuel line.

I agree with Keith; you really need to find a way to secure that filter to the chassis. While it is attached by a couple of sturdy lines, I'd hate to find out (while going down the road) that something got tweaked and you now have a fuel jacuzzi in the vicinity of your exhaust system. I second his suggestion of using big, beefy/and or/multiple tie wraps to strap things down.  

Since EFI engines run under fuel pressure, there will be pressure in the lines. It does leak down, but the time is dependant on the condition of the system as a whole. There is a bleeder valve usually up on the fuel rail. There should be a schrader valve with a cap. It's similar in size and shape as a tire valve. Simply locate, remove cap, wrap with some type of cloth absorbant, then push on the stem. It should bleed the pressure as well as the fuel near the valve. There is still fuel in the lines, just not under pressure. Gravity will pull the fuel out of the lowest point in the lines.

When I do a fuel filter with an EFI engine, I first bleed pressure, then drain the line from the engine first. I usually can keep the filter higher than the tank in doing so.

Keith, wrap a couple big zip-ties around it and strap it to the old location... That's what I did with the goblin..

Keith, wrap a couple big zip-ties around it and strap it to the old location... That's what I did with the goblin..

At lunch today I got a small C-clamp and clamped it to where the holder's bolt was.  Hopefully that will keep it secure.