Are Calmini's diff drops the same as the FTS 3" kits diff drop?   Im just curious if any one has streched their calmini lift out anymore than 2.5" and started breaking stuff..or can it handle another 1/2-1" spring spacer?

a 1 1/2" spacer will net almost 2"  that with 2.5 calmini is pushing it on the CV's and the tie rods. Now I'm running 3"springs and  I will try and get some pics of the front CV's and what not.

George

Somehow there has to be a way to drop the rack and pinion unit OR install the tie rods on the TOP (versus the bottom) of the A-arm reliably for lifts over 2 inches.  They are stretched pretty low with a two inch lift and it has to be wearing the seals out of the R&P quicker every time the arm drops lower into a hole or something.  The beveled hole would be hard to reproduce from the top without having it machined, but then you would also have to find tie rods to match or build them.  To drop the R&P unit would bring it lower than the front cross member.  The factory mounting bolts are about 3+ inches apart so if you fabbed a new mounting plate you would drop the unit into harms way... without also incorporating a welded skid plate to protect it under the front cross member as well.

Of course at some point your A-arms  would keep swinging further under your truck and your track width would narrow even more without some aftermarket A-arms.

some people have used spacers with the calstinki lifts, put a 1/2 or 2/4 incher up front and a 1.5 out back and some longer shocks out back, leave the front as it is.  you will have less down travel up front but more ride height.  i guy i wheel with has an idea to invert his tie rods and i hope to work on this with him, i'll post some pics if this works out.

Somehow there has to be a way to drop the rack and pinion unit OR install the tie rods on the TOP (versus the bottom) of the A-arm reliably for lifts over 2 inches.  They are stretched pretty low with a two inch lift and it has to be wearing the seals out of the R&P quicker every time the arm drops lower into a hole or something.  The beveled hole would be hard to reproduce from the top without having it machined, but then you would also have to find tie rods to match or build them.  To drop the R&P unit would bring it lower than the front cross member.  The factory mounting bolts are about 3+ inches apart so if you fabbed a new mounting plate you would drop the unit into harms way... without also incorporating a welded skid plate to protect it under the front cross member as well.

Of course at some point your A-arms  would keep swinging further under your truck and your track width would narrow even more without some aftermarket A-arms.

It would be cool if someone made a tie rod flip/r&P drop kit but im not holding my breath!

a 1 1/2" spacer will net almost 2"  that with 2.5 calmini is pushing it on the CV's and the tie rods. Now I'm running 3"springs and  I will try and get some pics of the front CV's and what not.

George

I said a 1/2 to 1" spacer not a 1.5er  .. If your running 3" springs with cal's  strut spacer,drop diffs and a-arms I'm sure a .3 to .5 spacer would work too!  Pics would be cool of your setup!

some people have used spacers with the calstinki lifts, put a 1/2 or 2/4 incher up front and a 1.5 out back and some longer shocks out back, leave the front as it is.  you will have less down travel up front but more ride height.  i guy i wheel with has an idea to invert his tie rods and i hope to work on this with him, i'll post some pics if this works out.

Would some OME struts fix the down travel from the spacers, or would it be too much?

Only way to drop the rack is to drop the front sub frame. You would need to build a rear sub frame to do this.

You could cut the mounting tabs off the front sub frame and move them down on a bracket.

Here's a pic of my XL with 3" calmin and a 2" bd lift with245/75/16's