Yeah, that is basically what I have been thinking too Jeremiah.

Well, I have been looking around for axles so I can get this thing going and I cant seem to find Toyotas for a reasonable price. Usually just the front is $400-500. The plus side though is the rears are only around $100 usually. It is just a little hard to spend $450 on just the front axle when I could get both front and rear Jeep axles for around the same price. I have heard other people (people not from this site) also say that Toyotas are the best option, but I have yet to hear why. Zukipilot, you touched on that a little:

The down fall to the C-clip style axles is when you break them. There is nothing holding your axle in place but the C-clip that is located in the center section. So broken axle usually results in wheel falling off, broken brake lines etc....

Is this the only reason that they are bad? Cause this doesnt sound like too huge of a problem to me.

toyota axles are stronger than most. also they have a high center on the pumpkin so you get more clearance. also there are alot of options on gearing for them too. Just think I want two front toyota axles for my project but for now I'm going to just use the axles from my cherokee only thing is the front is drivers drop so i have to cut it apart and make it pass drop. thats going to be interesting to do.

My favorite upgrade to the toy axle (also available for dana) is the Aussie Locker. It works SOOOOOO much better than typical lunchbox lockers. No clickty bang or other BS. I never notice it's there (both on and off road) which is a GOOD thing. It means it's locked when it's supposed to be, and unlocked when it's supposed to be... and doesn't fuss about it... ever.

That said, Toy axles are stronger than D44 (stock), and can be built up to be as strong as a D60. Better diff to ground clearance. They're virtually bulletproof (under 99% of Suzukis) with a little trussing & Longfield axles. They also have the same break threading at Suzuki (Dana requires adapters). I did notice my turning radius isn't the same... but you can get that back if you use Longfields (adjust the turn stops). I've seen D44's break under a Suzuki (granted, they had BIG tires), but never seen a toy axle break under a Suzuki. It's my understanding the hubs are stronger too.

And, the aftermarket support is INCREDIBLE.

But wouldn't all of this be true about a Dana 30? Well besides the part about the toys being stronger than a Dana 44, but I have a feeling that statement is partially opinion (not trying to cause trouble, I just want to make sure I get the best information). I am sure that the aftermarket for Dana 30's is not lacking, and whether I have a 30 or a Toy, I am planning to get a stock one and run it until it breaks and then replace the parts with better quality. Also, I have heard that Birfields are not as strong as U-joints, but then again everybody that says that also says that for a suzuki they would be fine, especially if I put in Longfields eventually. Again I am not just shooting down everything you say for the fun of it. I just still have not heard anything that would make me think Toyotas are superior. They are both common, with large aftermarkets. The only info I can get is that Dana 30's are stronger than Toyotas stock (because of the U-joints), but then everybody says to use Toyotas on a Suzuki...

well its just opinions and you can run what you want. like you said not trying to make trouble. I'm just going by what i have been told. now on to the dana 30 axle. that is what I will be putting under my tracker but its from a xj and they dont have lock outs and its drivers drop and i need a pass drop. so i have to make it into one. the reason I'm doing that is very limited funds and I have the axles. and I'm going to run them until i can find two front toyota axles then it will be four wheel steer. But my best advise is use what you can get and what you think will work for your application. Hope you understand my point of view and that is just my opinion. good luck

Yeah I understand. I might end up going with Jeep axles for the same reason. I can find them at an affordable price.
I have really only come across one toyota front axle that seems like it is what I am looking for and it is going for $450! Basically, the toyotas would end up costing over $100 more than the Jeep axles. Well thanks for the advice guys, I guess all that is left now is getting some axles and getting to work! Whenever I finally get to that point (of actually doing some work) I can post pics and stuff if you guys would like. I think I am going to go with a coil/link set up. I might end up doing something similar to the Trail Slayer link system, that has a pretty nice bracket system and keeps everything up tight and people have a lot of good things to say about that kit.

If stock for stock, the Toyotas are weaker, then why are the Jeepers selling their axles (which is why they're so cheap), and buying Toyotas? U-joints aren't bullet proof, nor are they necessarily stronger than birf. When I went to the Rubicon with over a dozen Suzuki guys (who all wheel together in Oregon all the time), the only guys having axle trouble where:
* 33" tires, busted stock passenger Samurai birf
* 33" tires, busted D44 on a Samurai
* 37" tires, busted BOTH axles and BOTH u-joints on a D44
NO ONE running Toyota axles broke.

Some is opinion, but not all. Toyota axles are more expensive because they're considered stronger & more desirable. Much of it is from people who've run both axles, and from testing:
http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/graph.html

Normally manufacturer testing doesn't impress me much at all. HOWEVER, Bobby Long goes out to shows, and demonstrates the above test live and in person several times a year. There's dozens (hundreds?) of threads out there where people report their real-live experience with the axles - and Toytota almost always gets the nod over dana axles when compaired to D30-D44. They frequently get the nod more than D60 (around 40" tire or less) because of the smaller diff housing. The D60 gets the thumbs up in BIG tires on MUCH HEAVIER rigs... but only after the D60 has been upgraded itself.

The down side of Toyota axles (as compared to a D60):
* The stock knuckle bolts can shear. Most people say this is because they need to be re-torqued every so-often, and people are too lazy to regularly check them. Fix: Check your bolts every so often, buy ARP bolts, weld on a tab for a 5th bolt, or replace the knuckles all together with "the six pack".
* Cheap aftermarket (and especially poorly setup) diff gears will break. But, that's universally true of all axles. Buy good gears, and set them up correctly.
* Axle tubes aren't as strong as D60, they must be trussed if you're going to abuse them. This is equally ture of the Jeep axles.

Often times I look at these discussions, roll my eyes, and think to myself, "Oh boy, another Ford / Chevy debate.". But, in my experience on trail / reading threds, Toyota tends to be the clear winner, and well worth the extra $100.

Keep in mind - Trail Toughs double tough axles have been getting a lot of accolades. Last I heard, no one's broke a set yet   You could just buy those, truss up the axles, armor up the diff and be done with it.

Haha, now that you mention it, this is sort of like a Ford/Chevy argument. But it seems like this is a Chevy site (or Ford, whichever you prefer).

Well, I did figure out a way that I might be able to do the Toyota axles without too much extra cost. I can get a rear axle for free, but it is from a 2-wheel drive truck. I can't think of any reason why this wouldn't work, but I want to make sure. Anybody have any reason why I shouldn't use it?

Anybody have any reason why I shouldn't use it?

Pretty sure the 4x4 = 6 bolt, and 2WD = 5 bolt  :'(

Aww crap, you're right. The 2wd is 5 bolt. well so much for that plan. I was so excited too...

I found out that a friend of mine has axles from a Land Cruiser that he doesnt need. I think they are the same width as a pickup but he said they are beefier (ring and pinion is bigger and stuff). That is pretty much all I know about them so far but I will try to find out more soon.

They're good stuff.

I talked to my friend today and he said the axles are out of a '72-'74 landcruiser. They already have 4.11 gears and have been re-drilled to a 5x5.5 bolt pattern. Sounds pretty cool! He said one of them is missing the ring gear (and hopefully nothing else, he has never had it apart to check). He said they use an old style of drum brakes that is not as effective as some of the newer versions but I'm not sure how much of a difference that will make. Anybody know anything helpful about these axles?

I would go check out http://www.ih8mud.com/ as they are pretty up to date on Cruiser info.