Sometimes there is more brake fluid than the resivour
can hold, so the cap might be a problem in that case.

I finally got them to move...

If you didn't open the system (replace a hydraulic part) you won't have to bleed your brakes.

You are going to want to rebuild those calipers or you'll probably be doing this whole job (again) in about 8K miles. If they are that stiff, they are gonna cause your pads to rub on the rotors... and probably overheat/warp them.

You can buy rebuild kits... mostly just the rubber O ring & dust cover. Put a block of wood inside the caliper & step on the brake. That'll pop both pistons out part way so you can work them out. (Put a bucket underneath to catch the fluid.)

Before you put them back together, lightly shine the calipers w/ some ruge paper or crocous cloth. Lightly "oil" the rubber ring w/ your finger dipped in brake fluid... and the piston should push back in easily.

(GM had thousands of bad brakes in the early 80's due to a slight roughness of the pistons. This fixed the prob every time.)

Yeah ive used that trick alot faster then trying to use a big ass c clamp to compress them lol

Well, the brake light has finally turned off... the pads don't seem to be rubbing. However, after I got it to move just a bit in the vice, it seemed to move a lot free-er than before.