I installed a new cap, rotor, plugs, and wires yesterday on my '95 16V sidekick (manual trans, 4x4). The truck drove, started, etc. before the tune up just fine (a bit of a rough idle before ...)

Installed all the new ignition parts, and it still cranks strong, but won't fire. I tried to troubleshoot everything I could (visited Kick Fix a number of times). Decided to put all the old ignition parts back to see if it'd start and it wouldn't! How odd: It ran, started, etc. before, but something has happened ...

I tried a combination of things, no dice:

- Checked to make sure the firing order was correct, and it was. I even swapped out the #1 and #3 plugs to see if timing had been 180ed, but it hadn't.

- Checked TDC, rotor is in the 11-o'clock position. (Apparently where it should be on compression)

- Engine is getting fuel (plugs smell of gas, there was just a hint of gasoline on the plugs if you wipe them off)

- Haven't checked for spark yet ...

ANY idea what might have gone wrong? I didn't adjust the timing, just a basic tune up!

I seem to recall that some rotors are not be keyed in a way to allow only the correct installation position - some can be installed 180 degrees out.

Also, if you did not mess with the timing belt, it is possible that you may have assembled the sparkplug wires 180 degrees out - a common problem.

The TracKick distributor rotates in the opposite direction than one would typically assume.  Also, the TCD ignition and TDC exhaust strokes are easily confused - which also trips up a person doing a tune-up. 

The easiest way (to me) to determine which TDC a cylinder (#1 is easiest) is to remove the valve cover and examine the position of the cylinder's cam lobes at the valve stems.  If both of the cam lobes are facing away from the valve stems, that cylinder is at TDC ignition.  Hand-turning the engine is the best way to achieve TDC Ignition on the cylinder that you are looking at. That information gives you a starting point for installing the rotor and wires by following the firing order.

Next time take pics or mark wire location and rotor position.   I wish I had on my first tuneup... 

Kixkfix's information can be very useful - if you are able to decipher his writing style.  I can't...

Distributors on the 16V rotate CCW, locate as per Ack's instruction firing
#1 (front of engine) and check the rotor for the correct position of the
tang as compared to the old one, place #1 plug wire on the cap and follow
1,3,4,2 Firing order, it should start right up then

Wild

Distributors on the 16V rotate CCW, locate as per Ack's instruction firing
#1 (front of engine) and check the rotor for the correct position of the
tang as compared to the old one, place #1 plug wire on the cap and follow
1,3,4,2 Firing order, it should start right up then

Wild

Well, I've got the wires in the correct order (1,3,4,2, CCW). I've checked the rotor a number of times. In fact, I've tried the rotor in all three possible positions, and none of them will allow the engine to fire.

I was so careful to hook everything back up the original way, which is what gets me ...

I don't remember on the 16V engine, but the 8V #1 wire goes to the
5 O'clock position, but to be sure you must make sure of the engine
position as firing #1 or you are just wasting your time

Well, before anything, I just need to check for spark. I need to take that variable out of the equation.

Have you checked all your connections at the coil/igniter?  Grounds on the firewall and on the block/head adjacent to the distributor?  Possiibly a broken wire or one was knocked loose.  Good luck

I did check the connections and the grounds, and it looked fine. Might have missed something, though. Will double check.

Figured out the problem: Wires going to the coil. I unplugged the coil (ignitor side), replugged it in, and low and behold it started. To test, I started the car, then wiggled those wires/connector, and sure enough: it died.

Wires aren't loose in the connector and the connector isn't loose, either. Maybe some dielectric grese between the coil and the connector would help?

At least I know where the problem lies; now to just make sure the connection is reliable.

Yeah, a little dab of dielectric grease won't hurt anything.  Does the connector "click", when you push it on the coil?  If it does, then that tells you it is getting pushed on far enough and it is seating properly.