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anti wrap bar on a spring over

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anti wrap bar on a spring over
« on: August 02, 2011, 10:08:24 AM »
How many of you run a anti wrap bar on your spring over lift with Sammy springs? I think this is what is giving me a scrub type of noise on a harder launch of the clutch. I did just put in a Center force clutch thinking it was the problem. Drive train has 7K miles on it . 1991 Sammy. Which manufacturers wrap bar is most popular? I was looking at the one LowRange offroad has on their site. Thanks in advance for the replies.

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Offline Jonny Rash

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Re: anti wrap bar on a spring over
« Reply #1 on: August 02, 2011, 11:07:32 AM »
I ran one many years ago and promptly bent my housing.  I haven't put it back on, but I really haven't had any problems with spring wrap.  Get the t-case & diffs for the tire size and spring wrap will not be as big of an issue.
35 years of Samurai ownership, and I still have my very first one. :)

Re: anti wrap bar on a spring over
« Reply #2 on: August 03, 2011, 07:47:19 PM »
I'm running Sammy springs and stock shocks with a spring over with stock gears and 30x9.50 tires. So do I need this or is the scrub noise on launch something else? I would like to get rid of this problem in one more fix. Any suggestions /opinions?

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Offline Jonny Rash

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Re: anti wrap bar on a spring over
« Reply #3 on: August 04, 2011, 07:47:26 AM »
I bet you have a torn rear spring bushing (stock one) or a u-joint going bad. 
35 years of Samurai ownership, and I still have my very first one. :)

Re: anti wrap bar on a spring over
« Reply #4 on: August 04, 2011, 08:39:07 PM »
Ujoints are good. will check the springs this weekend. Thanks for another possible cause. This will be way cheaper and easier of a fix than a wrap bar.

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Offline my996duc1

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Re: anti wrap bar on a spring over
« Reply #5 on: August 04, 2011, 11:05:29 PM »
what are you running for t-case mounts ?
stock mounts can stretch allowing the t-case to hit the underside when launching hard.
1987 Tintop / 1.6 16V ps & ac / 6.4 t-case Twisted TT / 4.30 R&P Hybrid rear / Double Tough axles / Shrockworks all around / ARB f&r / Mighty Kong & TT full skid / DS disconnect / CV shafts f & r / YJ missing links f & r / Petroworks tintop cage / 15 gal Tank / 31" x 12.50 Pro Comps

Re: anti wrap bar on a spring over
« Reply #6 on: August 05, 2011, 08:59:09 AM »
Running stock rubber mounts. never thought of that. So of all the options listed how do I trouble shoot to find out which one it is? I would like to get this problem fixed in one more repair.

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Offline Jonny Rash

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Re: anti wrap bar on a spring over
« Reply #7 on: August 05, 2011, 12:51:46 PM »
I've always run the stock rubber t-case mounts and they've always worked great for me.  Sure they rip after a lot of use, but think of them as fuses.  I think the hard mounts and bolt/bushing combos just ensure that you will break the t-case housing or tweak the frame mounts.
35 years of Samurai ownership, and I still have my very first one. :)

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Offline my996duc1

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Re: anti wrap bar on a spring over
« Reply #8 on: August 05, 2011, 03:58:52 PM »
Running stock rubber mounts. never thought of that. So of all the options listed how do I trouble shoot to find out which one it is? I would like to get this problem fixed in one more repair.


I had a set of solid mounts that came with mine when I bought it.  A person could use any sort of solid spacer that is the same size as a stock mount. So I swapped them in and it solved all the noise that everyone said was axle wrap (but wasn't axle wrap). I had put the axle wrap bar in the shopping cart online when I learned about these Polaris mounts and tried them..... so glad I didn't order the axle wrap bar and waste the time and money, when it was NOT needed.

I didn't want the problems associated with a solid mount or a bolt through so I switched to the Polaris rubber mounts.
Like the stock mounts, the Polaris mounts are rubber in between the bolts so it has the "weak spot" to tear before bending t-case arms or cracking the t-case, BUT the Polaris rubber is just abit stiffer than stock mounts.

The write up is linked in Ack's Faq (a great resource for info) : http://acksfaq.com/sessionTest1b-.php

here is the article : http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=34639&highlight=polaris

hope this helps.
« Last Edit: August 05, 2011, 04:05:15 PM by my996duc1 »
1987 Tintop / 1.6 16V ps & ac / 6.4 t-case Twisted TT / 4.30 R&P Hybrid rear / Double Tough axles / Shrockworks all around / ARB f&r / Mighty Kong & TT full skid / DS disconnect / CV shafts f & r / YJ missing links f & r / Petroworks tintop cage / 15 gal Tank / 31" x 12.50 Pro Comps

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Offline Jonny Rash

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Re: anti wrap bar on a spring over
« Reply #9 on: August 05, 2011, 04:59:51 PM »
The Polaris mounts look like a good option.  That being said, if your stock mounts aren't torn, then switching to the Polaris mount system will offer no benefits.  IMHO, the only thing the Polaris mount has to offer is a cheaper alternative to the stock mounts.
35 years of Samurai ownership, and I still have my very first one. :)

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Offline my996duc1

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Re: anti wrap bar on a spring over
« Reply #10 on: August 05, 2011, 10:41:06 PM »
The Polaris mounts look like a good option.  That being said, if your stock mounts aren't torn, then switching to the Polaris mount system will offer no benefits.  IMHO, the only thing the Polaris mount has to offer is a cheaper alternative to the stock mounts.

*** ?? Did you even read the link ?? ***
From link, the stock mounts, not torn and relatively new, were stretching because they are made of a softer rubber, than that of the Polaris mounts.
So the Polaris mounts have the benefit of being made of a stiffer rubber that does not stretch as easily. Regardless if your stock mounts are torn, old, new, ..... no matter what condition the stock mounts are in.

Not sure how and/or where your thinking and logic comes from........


« Last Edit: August 05, 2011, 10:58:03 PM by my996duc1 »
1987 Tintop / 1.6 16V ps & ac / 6.4 t-case Twisted TT / 4.30 R&P Hybrid rear / Double Tough axles / Shrockworks all around / ARB f&r / Mighty Kong & TT full skid / DS disconnect / CV shafts f & r / YJ missing links f & r / Petroworks tintop cage / 15 gal Tank / 31" x 12.50 Pro Comps

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Offline Jonny Rash

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Re: anti wrap bar on a spring over
« Reply #11 on: August 06, 2011, 04:55:57 AM »
Yes, I read through the link.  Quite a bit of boasting of "how great they are" through it though. ;)  You also originated the thread, so you don't exactly have an unbiased opinion.   ;) 

Brand new Suzuki mounts are a lot stiffer than relatively new (aka used) Suzuki mounts.  Again, I've never really had a problem with the Suzuki mounts and I will continue to run them.  Why don't you compare new mounts from both Suzuki and the Polaris?  That is where my logic comes from.   ;)  If you are having a vibration, clicking, and banging problem from a stock mount, the mount is probably on its last legs.

The other problem I see with the Polaris mount is, if they are so stiff that they never tear. well then, the whole fuse concept is mute.  I'd much rather spend 5 min replace a Suzuki mount on the trail vs, trying to hammer out or weld my frame mounts.
« Last Edit: August 06, 2011, 10:04:43 AM by Jonny Rash »
35 years of Samurai ownership, and I still have my very first one. :)

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Offline Drone637

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Re: anti wrap bar on a spring over
« Reply #12 on: August 06, 2011, 10:02:34 PM »
On the original question, I s-curved two different sets of rear springs before I finally just build a 4-link with the help of BRD HNTR.  :)
96 Geo Tracker, x-SJ-410,  x-White Rabbit, x-Project Trouble
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x-Trouble Racing

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Offline my996duc1

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Re: anti wrap bar on a spring over
« Reply #13 on: August 07, 2011, 03:32:14 AM »
Yes, I read through the link.  Quite a bit of boasting of "how great they are" through it though. ;)  You also originated the thread, so you don't exactly have an unbiased opinion.   ;)  

Brand new Suzuki mounts are a lot stiffer than relatively new (aka used) Suzuki mounts.  Again, I've never really had a problem with the Suzuki mounts and I will continue to run them.  Why don't you compare new mounts from both Suzuki and the Polaris?  That is where my logic comes from.   ;)  If you are having a vibration, clicking, and banging problem from a stock mount, the mount is probably on its last legs.

The other problem I see with the Polaris mount is, if they are so stiff that they never tear. well then, the whole fuse concept is mute.  I'd much rather spend 5 min replace a Suzuki mount on the trail vs, trying to hammer out or weld my frame mounts.

..... you gotta be joking..... and you still have NOT read the entire link.

If everyone is boasting about how great the mounts are then maybe, just maybe, maybe..... they might work.
Of course I did the write up and shared the experience because it WORKED for me and others.

An "opinion" on these mounts is what you have since you know absolutely nothing about them. I do not have any opinion on these, I have real experience, first hand. I am not selling them.... just merely sharing my experience with them.
Heck, they may not even work for the problem here... it was a suggestion.
Obviously you did NOT read the link because they will tear, as stated by others in the link. So yes they are rubber and they will tear if abused long enough but they are a stiffer rubber (not solid rock hard) and may help some people in certain situations.

My relatively new stock mounts had about 50 miles of street driving on them.  So yes, relatively new not brand new.
If I was selling these mounts then I would put them through alot more tests  and comparisons.... I am not selling them.

Not sure why you are so quick to put down someone else's suggestion for a fix to a fellow member's troubles. You obviously have no knowledge and only an opinion about these mounts. It is great that you state your opinion but now you are trying to defend an "opinion" and it is just plain foolish and silly.
Why not go over to the forum where the link is posted up and share your opinion on why you think these mounts (which you have never tried) will not and do not work as described by everyone.... then maybe someone with more patience can explain it better for you.
Sorry but not sure what is going on here and I am done trying to explaining this....

« Last Edit: August 07, 2011, 03:51:08 AM by my996duc1 »
1987 Tintop / 1.6 16V ps & ac / 6.4 t-case Twisted TT / 4.30 R&P Hybrid rear / Double Tough axles / Shrockworks all around / ARB f&r / Mighty Kong & TT full skid / DS disconnect / CV shafts f & r / YJ missing links f & r / Petroworks tintop cage / 15 gal Tank / 31" x 12.50 Pro Comps

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Offline Jonny Rash

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Re: anti wrap bar on a spring over
« Reply #14 on: August 07, 2011, 07:41:31 AM »
I have 23 years of experience/300k miles with the stock mounts.  I have driven/offroaded my Samurais all over the US and Germany. The stock mounts are well designed, work properly, but are a little pricey.   I have never had a problem with them until they get old, start cracking, and then tear. 

Yes, I did read where a guy running 36" tires and what appeared to be only t-case gearing tore a set. Obviously, the t-case was under a huge amount of stress; doing backflips. I couldn't fathom running such a mechanically weak setup.

As far as helping the guy out, that's what I'm trying to do. The stock mounts, unless torn, are not the source of his problem. He needs to look elsewhere.     

I am puzzled as to why you are always responding to my comments in an emotional charged, demeaning manner.  ???  This is the 3rd thread I believe.
 
35 years of Samurai ownership, and I still have my very first one. :)