Searched and found some remarks about using hocky pucks for a short body lift but need more info. Seems easy enough but wondering about the bolts on all the mounts. Is it pretty simple to get to the middle 4 bolts and put longer ones in or do I even have to?

if you've got a kick, the only mounts that use bolts are the two front ones under the headlights.

the rest should be studs, which are fixed to the body. i think a 1" should be ok with out other mods, but 2" or bigger, you either need to get some aluminium blocks made up and threaded, or do a budget lift and use box section.

the rear body studs can be removed and replaced with bolts if needed, but you have to drill a couple of holes out of the body.

everything else should be straight forward, unbolt body, lift body, put in spacers, lower body and bolt up again. in more or less words. just make sure you check fuel lines and brake lines when lifting the body, as you might have to lift the body a few (maybe 3", or 1" off the chassis) to insert the blocks. just take it slow.

Front and back seem easy to get to. And you're saying the middle studs should be long enough to to put the 1" in?

well, i havent had experience with a 1" BL, i've seen it done, and i was told it went on ok. if you have a look at the middle mounts now, and see how much thread there is left on the stud, there should be enough there. or you can take out on of the rubber mount thingys.

maybe its easier to go for a 2" BL instead of a 1", seeing as you're going to have the body up off the chassis anyway.

whats the reason for the 1" BL? are you planning on fitting bigger tyres? have you got suspension lift already?

dont bother with only a 1", you'll regret it later.  go 3 or 4.  same amount of work.   I used 4 inch square tubing, 1/4 inch thickness, 6 inch lengths.  drilled two holes on it, tapped the studs( and cut an inch off)  and just used nuts to hold it to the body, and just used some gr8 nuts and bolts to hold the frame to the tuning.  Worked really nice and easy.  

4" thats like rockin spinner hubcaps on a caddy.

Open up the wheel wells.

I did a 1" on my friends Sammy. But I used aluminum round stock sliced and drilled in to 1" pieces. Im not sure whats up with a kick but you either need to extend, use spacers or cut the mid body studs out. There not threaded all the way. Other than that you only need to loosen the fuel fill tube a bit, but you won't have to extend it and cut a hole out of your tranny hump so you can shift like with a 3". That looks like Cr|removethispart|@p to if you don't do it nice.

no way I'd do 4" with 1/4" box. 2-3" maybe ... I'm not a fan a BL anyway (but ya gotta do what ya gotta do). 1/4" box is scary to me tho.

Body lifts DO keep the center of gravity down though,,,,,Very good if you don't have a cage,,,or you have a spider sence

On Track/kicks you almost NEED a body lift unless you're going SAS just to get added clearance for larger tires...

On Track/kicks you almost NEED a body lift unless you're going SAS just to get added clearance for larger tires...

I agree, and I'm not a fan of body lifts either, but there's no BIG suspension lift out there for these, and limited options for 2 or 3 inch kits. I'd like to do a body lift for some extra height, but my rig is too rusty under there     It'll be interesting to see RRO's Rockfather lifts......

I don't like to see all that empty space between the frame and body. I had a (30 or 31) tire on it the other day and it just needs that extra bit of clearance. Not building big, just a little extra. The 2.5 suspension lift is just about right, but 3.5 should do just about everything I'm looking for.