So Rhinoman I should be fine the way I've planned it, or should I do shocks too. I've read shocks work out of a grand marquis, what years? Is that a good plan or will that lift it more too and give me more problems?

Normally shocks don't lift or lower your vehicle, the weight is on the springs. The shocks just make sure you don't bounce a long while after you hit a bump  But as stated it is a good idea to get some longer ones for elseway you'll lift a wheel because the suspension downtravel is very limited.

Sounds good. Anyone know the deal on using grand marquis shocks?

Is this lift I'm planning going to limit my articulation?

i have 1.5" coilo spacers in the rear with 4 door kick coils, im usin crown vic shox, i dont find them long enough

For shocks, I took measurements into my local napa and scoured the book for the right sizes ... "RR 94058" was the napa part# I ended up getting (about $15 a piece if I recall)

They ended up "a bit too long" for the 2dr (with just 1.75" spacers), so I made up some limit cables (will try to get a pic), and that keeps it from articulating so far that the springs fall out

On the 4dr, I got some OME springs (the "light" variety) combined those with 1.125 spacers and using the same shocks, the springs aren't falling out. BUT, I think it might be hanging up on the center ball or perhaps even the ebrake cables. I'm still sorting that one out, but if needed, I'll put some limit cables and call it good.

This last time I went in, I found another shock in the book that had the same stud and bushing sizes but about 1" shorter. I didn't get em tho cuz they were about $8 more each. (yes, I'm cheap).

Here's a pic of the limit cables


This is at "ride height" with the 4dr coils I recently swapped in. I think I may be able to extend them a bit more ... dunno till I get a chance to put it to a flex test.

It may not look like they allow much drop, but it was a good 4" of drop when I had the stock coils in.

I just finished my lift last week...  1.5" Coil spacers (Sky Manufact), 4 door coils, Crown Vic shocks (monroe sensatrack), 2" Strut spacers, Camber bolts, New struts (as mine were POOCHED), and new balljoints.  Twas a little costly. But what a diffrence. The kick is now up to Decent size, and rides smooth.  The Monroe Sensatracks are a little soft, but take alot of abuse out of the back of the Kick.  Your going to need to slot the struts though.  I need to do mine.. Even with the camber bolts in the passenger side is a little off yet.  If anyone has a set of RROs Struts could you post a pic to show how the slot was made? I hear if your decent enough the alignment shops will do it for you, but I havent found a shop willing to do it yet.

The shocks I use are out of a 91 Ford Crown Victoria rear. I've heard that 90's Ford E-150 van rear shocks work also.

Quote from: Digger on September 06, 2005, 09:09:15 PM

The strut flip will push the top of the struts further out a little which is what causes the camber to look like \----/ a little from the front, especially after the coil spacers and springs, but the rims you mentioned will increase the leverage on the spindle, bringing it closer to spec. You might be fine or you might need to investigate one of several camber fixes discussed on the thread "Hateful Camber Issues". It would be hard to tell if you're going to have a problem until you actually do it.

Flipping the strut top mounting shouldn't affect camber because everything will still be in line. It only affects the working range of the strut.

It shouldn't affect it, but it does. Ask me how I know... Or better yet, I'll just tell you... I found this out while swapping struts on my 93. My camber was closer to spec with the mount flipped than it is with the mount stock with the OME struts. Stock mounts and OME's give me camber like this: /----\, flipped mounts and OME's give a much more vertical camber...