Why do we have to take out the axle shaft?  Is this to free up the rear 3rd?  If I'm not putting in a locker or a spool, and just doing a straight diff swap?

Yes, the axles go into the 3rd member. It will become obvious to you when you get it out.

You don't have to take them all the way out either, just pull them 6 inches or so, don't pull the brake plate or anything. According to how your brake springs are set up, you may or may not have to move one out of the way on each side, I did.  You will most likely need the slide hammer, but they are cheap, or free loaner at AutoZone.

One time though this, and you will be fine. It is really quite simple once you do it. I had done just about everything but this type of rear end, and it was very very simple to me. With a lift and air tools, I can pull my third in 15 minutes or less.  20-25 on my driveway, but I am fat, and it takes me time to slide under... lol..


The last time I swapped gears, in my driveway, it took under an hour.

Maybe this'll help.

Quote from: Quaddawg on May 04, 2006, 10:08:48 AM

It's all good.  Sorry, I didn't realize you found the thread actually searching for info before posting.. I wasn't upset at all, just wondering how you found that article..  hmmmmm, I guess it was a good thing that I posted that topic for others to find...

Good job. See guys, the search feature DOES work after all.. lol...  Peace

Ya know, the ABSOLUTE BEST improvement you could make to that wonderful backlash/preload pdf document is to remake it with your name included as the author!   

Toot your own horn! It's a danged nice one!

I'll be ever vigilant to recieve an updated one for the FAQ! 

Heck, maybe I'll be able to get it online in les than fifteen minutes, this time! 

BTW:  BIG Improvements coming to the FAQ VERY SOON!

LOL,  I don't care if folks know I wrote that little thing... but if it'll appease you, I'll add it, if I can find the darned thing....

I LOVE your Faqs....   keep up the good work.

Cool.. I'm on my way today to check out the 89 track/kick...  I'll let you know what I find.. Fingers Crossed...

ERock

And really, if you're just replacing the rear third, just make sure you put everything back together the way you pulled it out (pretty easy) and the only thing that really "exactly" should be in place is the driveline splines. Don't worry about splines in the axles. You can't see them anyway.

Driveline splines, These have to be in exact place in reference to what part?  Are these the splines in the axle?  Is this something I mark and just line up when finished?

And really, if you're just replacing the rear third, just make sure you put everything back together the way you pulled it out (pretty easy) and the only thing that really "exactly" should be in place is the driveline splines. Don't worry about splines in the axles. You can't see them anyway.

Quote

Driveline splines, These have to be in exact place in reference to what part?  Are these the splines in the axle?  Is this something I mark and just line up when finished?

Somebody else want to chime in here?

My drivelines are no longer slip yoke style like yours - but I'm pretty sure on yours, you just put a chalk mark line, or marker line from the driveline to where it connects with the tcase. Kind of an, alignment line. This way, the splines will line back up correctly, and you won't get vibration.

Sort of like:


 
(This picture isn't from a sidekick, and this is on the rear pinion so it looks funny but it expresses the line)

Ok, I got it... I thought you meant line it up to the third, but I'm replacing it (hopefully) with the 5.62's.  Another thing...

Was the diff housing aluminum in 89'

I haven't taken a close look at mine, is a 96' steel,

What year did they change?

Thanks for all the help,

ERock

Quote from: ERock on May 05, 2006, 05:21:34 AM

And really, if you're just replacing the rear third, just make sure you put everything back together the way you pulled it out (pretty easy) and the only thing that really "exactly" should be in place is the driveline splines. Don't worry about splines in the axles. You can't see them anyway.

Quote

Driveline splines, These have to be in exact place in reference to what part?  Are these the splines in the axle?  Is this something I mark and just line up when finished?

Somebody else want to chime in here?

My drivelines are no longer slip yoke style like yours - but I'm pretty sure on yours, you just put a chalk mark line, or marker line from the driveline to where it connects with the tcase. Kind of an, alignment line. This way, the splines will line back up correctly, and you won't get vibration.

Sort of like:


 
(This picture isn't from a sidekick, and this is on the rear pinion so it looks funny but it expresses the line)

The key to proper driveshaft installation is to have the yoke in the same plane of rotation with each other.  I have yet to monkey with my TracKicks' driveshafts, but I seem to remember the slipjoint is actually on the end -- not between -- the yokes as is the case with the Samurai and many other vehicle driveshafts.  So the yoke alignment concerns do not apply.  Balance issues may exist, so I always mark the shaft at the flange so it goes back together like it came apart.

If you are interested, there is a video on how to reassemble a driveshaft at Ack's FAQ. Do a search for driveshaft.

Ok, I got it... I thought you meant line it up to the third, but I'm replacing it (hopefully) with the 5.62's.  Another thing...

Was the diff housing aluminum in 89'

I haven't taken a close look at mine, is a 96' steel,

What year did they change?

Thanks for all the help,

ERock

All Track/Kicks are aluminum. All Samurais, some GV's, and I think all XL7's are steel.

Quote from: hcgalvin on May 05, 2006, 06:19:12 AM

Quote from: ERock on May 05, 2006, 05:21:34 AM

And really, if you're just replacing the rear third, just make sure you put everything back together the way you pulled it out (pretty easy) and the only thing that really "exactly" should be in place is the driveline splines. Don't worry about splines in the axles. You can't see them anyway.

Quote

Driveline splines, These have to be in exact place in reference to what part?  Are these the splines in the axle?  Is this something I mark and just line up when finished?

Somebody else want to chime in here?

My drivelines are no longer slip yoke style like yours - but I'm pretty sure on yours, you just put a chalk mark line, or marker line from the driveline to where it connects with the tcase. Kind of an, alignment line. This way, the splines will line back up correctly, and you won't get vibration.

Sort of like:


 
(This picture isn't from a sidekick, and this is on the rear pinion so it looks funny but it expresses the line)

The key to proper driveshaft installation is to have the yoke in the same plane of rotation with each other.  I have yet to monkey with my TracKicks' driveshafts, but I seem to remember the slipjoint is actually on the end -- not between -- the yokes as is the case with the Samurai and many other vehicle driveshafts.  So the yoke alignment concerns do not apply.  Balance issues may exist, so I always mark the shaft at the flange so it goes back together like it came apart.

If you are interested, there is a video on how to reassemble a driveshaft at Ack's FAQ. Do a search for driveshaft.

Thanks, Ack. I wasn't sure how important getting alignment up on a slip-style shaft was.

I always remember putting some kind of alignment markings on mine in the past, before I went SAS though - just didn't want any trouble.

Front housings on kicks are aluminum, rear is steel.


You aren't going to be messing with any splines at all, other than axle splines....

The drive shafts are going to unbolt, and bolt back to different pinion flanges, so you can't put them back either..

So, the word "splines" is confusing here.


The only thing you are really going to be messing with, that requires it to go back together just as you took it apart......... is   NOTHING REALLY!!!     

If you are just swapping in thirds......  drop the driveshafts by unbolting the flanges  don't even take them out... SO.... you don't have to worry about them.. they will only bolt back up to the pinion flanges two different ways, 180 degrees out... er... maybe they will bolt on four ways.. it might be square.. BUT the point is, it's the flange, and doesn't matter... iand the pinions will be different, they don't care which holes are bolted to the driveshaft. You have to worry about that alignment only if you have a slip shaft, and you can get the U-Joints out of phase, you can't in this case.

The splines in the axles are going into different side gears in the different thirds... so you can't realign those splines.. and once again, it isn't balanced that way, so no difference in how you slide the axles in.

Hmmmm.... I am having a hard time thinking of ANYTHING on a simple 3rd member swap that has to go back with care on original alignment..


am I daffy here? did I forget something??


This is a simple straight forward swap... except the losing of the rear ABS Sensor..



not to mention it depends on a 89 Tracker even HAVING the 5.62's in the first place.. a REAL long shot.. most wrecking yards I have talked to have not even HEARD of that ratio..



One thing at a time. Get the gears, come on back and take it one step at a time. There are no great mysteries on a simple 3rd member swap, and once you do it, it will all be clear as day.

Oh DUH. Yah back is steel front is aluminum. LOL.   

Wow. Can't believe I slipped.

Went junkyardin and they did end up being 5.12's... Ah well... Gives me something to hunt for, which is half the fun... Now I am still going to look for removing front diff. so I'm prepared.

Will just the 5.62 ring and pinion gear swap out of an existing diff with 5.12's?  I get the idea that's a whole other story with setting things up which I can post if it ever happens.  Just wondering.  Some junkyards do charge less if you just strip out the R&P's..