I'd like some opinions about doing a SAS on my kick.

I don't plan to really start the conversion immediately, but instead spend 6-9 months hunting down the necessary bits, and doing it next winter.

My goal is to run 35's and yet still be streetable. If this is unrealistic, then I'd probably forget it ...

First is axel choice. I wanna stay fairly light and yet have good choices for pickings. I've heard older waggy axels fit nice, but not as easy to find as yota stuff. D44's are probably overkill and too heavy. That leaves yota stuff, and either FJ80 or 84-85 trucks as a donor. FJ80 might be harder to find, but if there is a good reason to really hunt for them, I'd do it. An 84-85 truck could probably yield a set of axels for around $350 so I leaning that way at the moment.

Next question is regarding the stock drive train. I expect that turning 35's is going to be a strain for the 1.6 in the kick, but shouldn't be too bad. I figure to regear the axels to say 5.38 and hope the stock tcase would be up to the job? I could just plan on a tcase swap while I'm at it, but rather not if not necessary.

Coils or leafs? I'm leaning towards coils since that's what I really want, but I might be convinced to flop on that ...

I'm leaning toward this as inspiration
http://xfaktor.net:8082/Projects/Suzuki/Coil/Coil.html
(probably use heim not bushings, some other differences to my tastes... )

I've seen the pics done to hcgalvin's too and if others have ideas I should consider please let me know.

I would go for the toyota axles.  They are fairly common and parts are readily available.  The straight axles on trucks were used from 79 or 80 up through to 85.  There aer minor differences which is why the later are generally prefered, mostly gusseting on the front.  The rear however can be had from anything up to about 95.  The only difference on the 86-95 rears is that they are slightly wider, something like 3 inches total.  Also if you want more strength get V6 third members, they are prefered, not positive but I think they will bolt into the front aswell.  On most of the toyota boards they compare yota axles to D44s strength wise.

ive ben haveing a blast building my tracker. its ben the longest build but trying to bo it rite. this is my 4th sas build and defently the most time consuming, 3 linked front and rear with 16'' coils,14'' shocks 34'' tires and no body lift, almost done still need to put t/case in and have driveshafts made and finish brakes , i would defently go coils, but thats me
i can probably fit 35'' tires with minimal  triming

...

I'm leaning toward this as inspiration
http://xfaktor.net:8082/Projects/Suzuki/Coil/Coil.html
(probably use heim not bushings, some other differences to my tastes... )

...

Wow, nicely done.
Thats the way to do it if ya can!
(dual cases too)

~Nate

SAS is always on the cards and I spent a bit of time looking around.

I had lots of advice to leave Dana alone as dana 30/35s would have been probably the way to go as not to big but lots of $$$$ even for the rebuild kits.

Yoto or Ford is the way I will go someday.INFO below is just of the top of my head as looked into it some time back.

Yoto axles I found you can get aftermarket Ring & pinions as low as 7.00: or there abouts that must be 40 to 60% reduction if not more as maths not good at this time in the morning. You could quite easy run 37/38s.
One thing I wasnt sure on was the stock ring & pinions sizes but I know they do a 5.79 or there abouts so for 35s I suppose you would want something in the 6.00+

Only negitive reports were a combo of V8 and CVs but there are aftermarket CVs and the cost in the UK seems to have gone up due to the demand

Ford was the other option as cheap. pleanty of spares and ratio sizes but I didnt go to seep as I had already decided that big mods were on hold as girlfriend wants to get married. lol :-(

Hope that gives you a guide and im sure some peops know all the right ratios etc..

ford 9" and dana 30 front from widetrac cj plenty out ther and lots of gear options. what r u going to do about the slipyokes in the stock t-case. i will us front XJ coils from the frot for front and rear. my build will start this weekend however i hope to have it done by next weekend to wheeling. all i have let to find is a mastercylinder.

mesjr, what coils are you using?

what r u going to do about the slipyokes in the stock t-case.

The tcase is the biggest unknown for me at this point. The Calmini "prototype" messages mention a SYE kit for the trac (as a part of the vapor SAS kit?) ... maybe that will still show up someday.

Yeah, mine is SAS - Suzuki Axle System...

check out this from OTT http://www.ottindustries.com/kicker3.htm doubles a tracker and a sammi t-case and with the reduction of the sammi case for 2hi and 4hi operation you could get away with not changing ur r&p's and run 34's.

Yea, I figure the tcase falls into

A) double up and run something along the lines of the OTT kicker3.

B) makeup a SYE (seen threads here about getting that done).

C) figure out somemeans of running a different tcase behind my tranny (kicker4)

D) use real long arms in the rear so that the swing of the axel is close enugh to the swing of the drive shaft (and keep the slip yoke).

I'm starting to lean toward option C. Option D would be best from budget perspective ...

didn't u say u were going to change ur r&p's compare the price of a gear set to a t-case doubler to a sammi and ur looking at about $70.

didn't u say u were going to change ur r&p's compare the price of a gear set to a t-case doubler to a sammi and ur looking at about $70.

ring pinions (for toy 8") are about $130 a set tho ... (from a limited check via 4wp).

(I must not be getting something ... not a first)

I do wanna thank everyone for their input ...

This is going to be an expensive enuf job, so I wanna settle on a decent plan rather than buy something now (e.g. gears for the kick tcase), and then turn out that I won't use that later ...

I could just copy what someone else did too, but I'd rather have something tailored to my wants/desires (and that could turn out to be a clone of another, but probably not in some aspect).

From what I've heard, never experienced it, if you go higher than a 5.29 on a toyota the pinion gear ends up so small that is very weak and prone to stripping off.  I'm sure many variables factor into this though.