Woot, just went to the machine shop and they have been working on it... slowly. Block cleaned, mains are line honed, block decked, and bored/honed. Crank main journals are all turned down, the rod journal that was spun has been prepped and welded up in prep for machineing down.

The other 3 rod journals are still at Honda OE spec so the ACT Race standard size D16 bearings that I got work! Oil pump end of crank is all good and measures out that it should fit the Tracker oil pump fine, snout is prepped to be cut down ~.500" and keyway cut for timing gear. They are moving the thrust bearing from the #3 location for the Tracker to the #4 location that Honda uses because the crank doesn't have any meat in the #3 spot to machine flat/bearing to run against and the #4 spot in the Tracker block is already rough machined from the factory so they only need to hit it ~.015" on each side and they'll fit.

#1 and #3 rod hit 2 random ridges in the bottom end. Shop is going to shave them flat but this isn't all that needs done in the bottom end. The rod bolts are ~.020" from the block and they feel safe with .060" as thats what most other engines call for. They are going to torque down the rod bolts, mark them where they go, then remove and shave off the tip/side of the head slightly to gain that clearance rather then grinding channels in the block that I feel could compromise its integrity.

DAMN! What happened to that # 4 crank journal? Looks like it welded itself to the rod.

DAMN! What happened to that # 4 crank journal? Looks like it welded itself to the rod.

It was a lightly spun bearing from the d16z6 engine. They ground it down then welded it up larger then it needs to be. They have yet to machine the welded material down and polish it to the final size.

I only paid $60 for a full d16z6 engine because of the spun bearing, pulled the crank, and sold the rest of it (bottomend/internals/full head) for $80 or $100 so the spun bearing repair nearly pays for itself as the crank was free.

They said crank should be done mid/late next week then it still needs sent out to get nitride treated at a place near Philadelphia.

Any updates on this?

Any updates on this?

May 17th:
Member on honda-tech sent me 6 factory bolts for the d16 flywheel so the machine shop could use them to plug the stock holes, shave off, then machine down that end of the crank so the rear main seal fits. The bolts were needed because they'll be machining down into them and then pressing a 'repair sleve' on as they call it so it is a smooth surface to prevent the seal from being possibly eaten.

Unsure if they machined the repaired rod journal down yet, but besides that, everything else is good to go! I'll post an update when everything is back in my hands along with hopefully a price breakdown... have a feeling I'm going to need to put another $800 into it bringing it up to a total of near $1,800 between top end and bottom end machine work total.

New oil pump is here along with timing kit. Experimenting with an adjustable Honda F22 cam gear if it measures up the same when it comes in. Going to get the shop to make an adaptor piece to make it bolt to the cam.

ANYBODY KNOW of an adjustable cam gear that will just bolt on just incase this $30 one won't work?



Thursday, May 19th:

Cam gear is here, it's the correct tooth count and spacing, etc. Now to take it with me to the machine shop and see what they think about modding it to work.

I'll just use the notch




Talk to the shop about making a ring with keyway kinda like this to 'adapt' it.

That new hub looks too thick, and it also looks like it
could be aluminum, so you might just want to mod the
stock pulley and have it fitted so the new cam cog will
fit on it and adjust

Wild

Sure is purdy though!

BIG UPDATE!!!

Found a MSIII kit with 8' wiring harness for sale on the local forum...

MS3357-C_BL - $548

MSHarness8 - $67

Total: $615

For sale for $450 shipped!!! Saving $165... better then the deal DIYautotune would give me.

Received a call from the machine shop yesterday... followed up today!

They sourced a way to do the holes, got that taken care of while I was out of town, pressed the seal saver sleeve on the rear of the crank, and everything is balanced! Doing a final clean today and I'll hear from them tomorrow.

Now, to send the crank out to get nitride treated to protect my HUGE investment.

Nice to see the project is still going forward. 

Haven't updated this in forever. I went to the machine shop and they royally screwed up the crank, it literally took me 3 months of searching to find another crank for a core. I'm taking it to a fabrication shop this Saturday to get the holes welded prior to taking it to the machine shop to get everything machined. I'll be working up some kind of paper regarding a deadline and if they don't agree, I will be seeking legal action because of how big of an inconvience this has all been, and I have just shy of $1,000 invested in that crank.






This is how I told them to do it, and saw a shop in Canada did it for one of their Swifts.

I had to go back and read up on what you were trying to do, really annoying about the crank.  Hopefully they will get it right this time...