I used an aftermarket head gasket on the turbo motor, no problems

I used an aftermarket head gasket on the turbo motor, no problems

I've used 2 gasket sets off e-bay so far with no problems, then again I only ran 5k miles on the setup but still. Currently trying to find the piston pin/compression height to see if what D16 rod I shoud go with (137 or 138.633).

D16 piston has -15.4cc dish & 29.81-30.00 pin height, while g16 has -15cc dish & 28.3~28.6mm pin height.

SO, pin height is 1.5mm closer for the Vitara to the deck but at the same time the D16 rod is .967mm-2.6mm shorter.

G16 deck height is 213.8mm, d16 is 212mm so that's 1.8mm shorter.

All this while I have .015"/.381mm shaved from my head.


Too many numbers it's making my head spin thinking about it right now.

The shorter rod will reduce your compression ratio, but are you
still planning on building a turbo motor? or are you just looking for
stronger rods?

I would look into forged pistons, about $400 for a
set designed for the D16 engine, but watch the CCs in the dish as
well as the CR of the piston, I ended up buying a set that was too
tall and the CR was about the same as a stock cast Suzuki piston, not
that it is bad, the stock CR is about 9:1 which is acceptable for a turbo
motor, but I was looking for 8.5:1 or a little lower, I let the info on the
piston specs cloud my thinking, it was advertised as 8.5 but what is really
most important is the dish volume of the piston and the volume of the
chambers of your head, that is what will give you your CR not the advertised
CR of the piston.

Suzuki rods are plenty strong, and will easily take 200HP turbo motor
application.

Wild

The shorter rod will reduce your compression ratio, but are you still planning on building a turbo motor? or are you just looking for stronger rods?

I would look into forged pistons, about $400 for a set designed for the D16 engine, but watch the CCs in the dish as well as the CR of the piston, I ended up buying a set that was too tall and the CR was about the same as a stock cast Suzuki piston, not that it is bad, the stock CR is about 9:1 which is acceptable for a turbo motor, but I was looking for 8.5:1 or a little lower, I let the info on the  piston specs cloud my thinking, it was advertised as 8.5 but what is really most important is the dish volume of the piston and the volume of the  chambers of your head, that is what will give you your CR not the advertised CR of the piston.

Suzuki rods are plenty strong, and will easily take 200HP turbo motor application.

Wild

I'll just run the YCP Vitara pistons, there's litarlly hundreds of d16 turbo guys running them with great results (350-400whp builds) and a few in the 450whp range so they'll be plenty good with plans of only running 200 or so max for now, till I get bored and blow up the driveline LOL. Everything online says the YCP pistons are a stronger material that is a step down from being forged.

The D16 with the vitara piston on stock D16 rod length (137) drops the piston 1.7mm (vitara has a 1.7mm lower piston pin height then D16). That's why FJT offers 1.633 longer rods to move the piston up the near same to bump compression back up to 8.1-8.2:1 for them otherwise they're around 7.5:1 for compression which is very low, even for turbo build.

So 1.6mm longer rods in the D16 = ~.5 compression change it should be somewhat similar for us so the 138.633 rods will be .967mm shorter dropping our compression .3 with the 138.633 rods.

We'd just be getting the compression drop from the rod not putting the piston as high where the D16 guys get the compression drop from our pistons not having as high of a pin height.

If you wanted a slower responding engine but be able to cram stupid amounts of boost in it you could always run their 137mm stock length aftermarket rods and be 2.6mm low and be mid 7:5-8:1 LOL.


I plan on using the 138.633 rods since the crank has the same throw and it's essentially stock pistons so I'm not changing pin height. The shorter rod will get me a light drop in compression which will put me in the 8.5:1 area so that'll be pretty good for turbo. There's a listing on e-bay right now for Revolution Rods and YCP pistons but I think they're only the 137mm rods so you'd only be in the 7.75:1 range probably which is too low for a 'responsive' motor outside of boost. (All rough numbers on the compression but you get the idea).

Ya, I get the idea, but I think those #s are too low, the Honda guys use Vitara
pistons to bump compression, and I think the compression with the Honda rod
and forged piston will be closer to 9 than you think, but is still fine for turbo use.

I'm pulling up some new parts in some research I'm doing, I'll let you know

Wild

Scored a complete D16Z6 honda engine for $44 (that's all the cash I had in my wallet at the time). Has a lightly spun rod bearing but nothing worse then how ALL of my journals are scored. Going to pull the crank here in the next few days and spec everything out and see what all needs done to make it work in the g16.

Not sure if I posted it or not but somebody outbid me with 7 seconds remaining on the FJT rods and YCP Vitara pistons

 Sounds ALOT like what happens to me constantly on Flea-bay.....  Frikkin' snipers  .  ( wheres' the emicon for that, anyways??? )

You saw the lightly spun or he told you it was? why did it spin?
got to be oil delivery related, could be a junk crank if not for the
Suzuki having much smaller main and rod journals.

Rebuild the rods and get the crank mains turned down to stock std.
Suzuki journals and have it rehardened  if needed, I'm not sure
if it's needed on a crank or if it's just extra protection  

Now you have a turbo worthy low
compression bottom end with short rods

Ohh, and you will need to do something with the flywheel
to fit the new crank too

You saw the lightly spun or he told you it was? why did it spin? got to be oil delivery related, could be a junk crank if not for the Suzuki having much smaller main and rod journals.

Rebuild the rods and get the crank mains turned down to stock std. Suzuki journals and have it rehardened  if needed, I'm not sure if it's needed on a crank or if it's just extra protection. Now you have a turbo worthy low compression bottom end with short rods

Ohh, and you will need to do something with the flywheel to fit the new crank too

I saw it (he lost the main cap for that rod but when I picked up the engine we took the pan back off and he showed me the journal). It's not that bad and will be able to be machined to just accept oversize bearings on that rod.

I'm scared of what the machine work is going to cost.

the writeup I saw the guy said he spent $700 on turning the crank and
having the journals nitrided but I think that is over priced, I was talking
to a crank shop here is San Bernardino that would weld and regrind a
stroker crank for a Sidekick for about $400, and that is more work than
just turning and treating a crank

This is a deadly build!! Nice job on everything.

This is a deadly build!! Nice job on everything.

Only to get better! Got a knockoff Type-S BOV from e-bay, said to be one of the 'better' quality ones out there so we'll see. Turbo rebuild kit arrived a few days ago and the 6 port vacuum block arrived yesterday. A few days ago I ordered a 2' piece of 3.5"x3.5" .120 wall box tubing to make a custom upper part of the intake manifold and relocated the TB to the end, providing the cables will reach, that way I can have shorter charge piping to/from a small front mount intercooler after I remove the A/C lines and condenser.

Don't go too crazy trying to shorten the intake between the turbo and the
throttle body, I had about 6' of 2" and 3" tubing, plus a Volvo intercooler
and there was really no lag so don't put bunches of work into that, do
something that is more productive

Wild

Don't go too crazy trying to shorten the intake between the turbo and the throttle body, I had about 6' of 2" and 3" tubing, plus a Volvo intercooler and there was really no lag so don't put bunches of work into that, do something that is more productive.

Wild

I just wanted to mess with the idea, I have yet to see if the cables will even reach the TB relocated to the front.

On a good note I finally took the block, crank, and main caps to the machine shop today along with the honda crank and girdle to see what they think. Rough measurements show that the mains need turned down 3mm, the snout for the timing gear is the same but it is ~.5" longer where it steps down for the accessory drive and the bolt/threading is larger. Honda main bolts are 1/8" larger and much longer. The trans side of the crank is ~.5" larger in OD and the 6 bolts are larger in size and bolt pattern.

Rough estimate is $350-$400 for machine work on the crank alone but they're doing research and doing a few calls to see if the Honda cranks are and/or need nitride treatment and if it does it will probably cost another $300+. IF the crank DOESN'T need treated, I'll probably get it done. IF IT DOES, then I'm sticking with factory crank, getting it 'fixed' and using new oversize bearings and will just be 'happy' with up to 200hp.

I think 200 HP is a good but conservative figure, but if I were building
your engine, I would use the 16V crank, it has double counter weights
and is supposed to be better at high RPM by not flexing the crank
like a single counter weight can do

Wild