All the ports are clean....Remember, this is a 1992 Tracker....my info says that the code 51 only applies to calif. emission vehicles which have a temperature sensor in the EGR valve....if the temp doesnt change with valve operation, the ECM sets code 51 and turns CEL on......Later vehicles (1994/1995) were on Fed regs that also required EGR operation verification....but not my 1992.....I have no Temp sensor on my EGR valve....what does the ECM look at to set a code 51?

I believe the ECM looks for a certain range of resistance from the temp sensor.  I know on the 16Vs, you can hook a resistor (10K ohm, I think) to the temp sensor wires and it will trick the ECM into thinking the temp sensor is there and working.

I dont even have any wires to hook a resistor to, let alone a temp sensor. Help...its making me crazy!!!

If your info is the Chiltons manual, use that to start a fire with, or line a birdcage maybe, & get an FSM. Code 51 is not a Suzuki specific code, & indicates any EGR malfunction on any OBD1 vehicle.
You need to find out 2 things 1st:
1: is your Tracker a Cali car? Look at the sticker on the underside of the hood, it will say FED or CA
2: Is the ECU Cal or Fed? It will say so on the case of the ECU. If you have a Fed vehicle with a Cali ECU it will throw the code because there is no EGRT to send it's signal to the ECU.
The main thing that senses the EGR is the MAP sensor, it must see a specific drop in manifold pressure when the EGR opens or the code will set. It can set if the passages are not completely clear. It can also set if there is a vacuum leak anywhere along the EGR pathing route, including the VSV, MOD valve, & the MAP sensor vacuum line. These are cheap & if you haven't yet... replace them all, following the vacuum diagram under the hood.
Does it pass the stall test?

Thank you, Fuzzy1. The vacuum lines look good, but I will replace them anyway.....I will take your advice re: chilton manuaal-I know of a nice outhouse that can use it....It is good to know the MAP sensor will set the code....I will check everything and let you know, but what is a stall test?

Stall test is done by manually opening the EGR valve while at idle. Safest is to use a hand vacuum pump on the nipple. You can also (wearing a glove) reach into the openings & gently squeeze the diaphragm to mimic the opening of the EGR. Be careful it can get very hot! The engine should stall or nearly stall. If it doesn't, the passages between the EGR valve & the intake are clogged. Sadly however, it's possible for it to pass the stall test but still be clogged enough to cause the code to throw. This is why you need to be sure the passages are completely clear.
From what I've ever read or seen, the MAP sensor is very reliable, I've only ever read of ONE being bad, & that was caused by physical damage. The vacuum lines on the other hand only last so long & can be bad even when they 'look' good.
I had a P0400 throw a 2nd time on my '96 (P0400 is the obd2 EGR code). It turned out to be the vacuum line between the front VSV & the MOD valve. On initial inspection it looked fine, but I pulled it off & bent the hose & sure enough it was cracked. Replaced & no more code. 

Hope that helps,
Fuzz

If the MAP goes bad it will barely run over 3000rpm

Talonxracer, on diferent thread (cat removal), someone (you?) said cat removal can cause EGR problems...The PO removed the cat when he had the exhaust replaced....I think I will pursue the cat angle...any cat ok? I can get a cheap one listed for $69 for 92 tracker at local parts house...is this a no-no? Thanks, all. Jim