Regear it. Yota carb from an early 70 s Corola. Header , cam, exhaust . And the 1300 will work it's A.. off for you.
 The answer to your question is listed above......JMHO....Boxcar...

Just consider there always seems to be hidden costs. 

If you can lay your hands on the 16v and harness for the above price range... thats not a bad route.  If you pull a junkyard motor... you run the risk of "it" being the reason its there to begin with.  Consider it will take you a good while to pull the engine and definately a while to yank the harness... only then to pay $300 for a re-wire (or DIY).

Adapter/motor mount kit can run about $175
High flow fuel pump & misc hoses $100+
New clutch/surfacing while your already in there? $150+
High pressure fuel filter/hoses $?

There are probably other nickle n dime stuff in there too.  Make sure you add it to the build section when you start!

I'm looking at the same thing right now as far as the motor goes and I've evaluated all of the possiblities that are logical for me, and keeping the 1.3 seems best for me, mine is a stock DD, I just plan to do a full rebuild, all new exhaust, and like Boxcar said, the Corolla carb swap. But since you're going to eventually use it strictly as a weekend warrior, a full engine swap may be for you, but I've heard with the 1.6 you have to body lift at least an inch which will run you what? Another $100ish? Plus my carburetor will run even when there is an EMP  lol EFI will fail

Cummins B Series. They make an inline 3.9L 4 cylinder! but its prolly really heavy and expensive.
I used the RRO adapter plate and motor mount system and can't say anything good about it. I won't use RRO anymore because of it.
On a side note I saw your samurai at the U-pull-n-pay in the springs a few weeks ago. Would have been when the yellow samurai was there with the motor in the back. Then I looked in your profile and we live like 10 miles away from each other. We should get together and hit some trails this summer.

I'm looking at the same thing right now as far as the motor goes and I've evaluated all of the possiblities that are logical for me, and keeping the 1.3 seems best for me, mine is a stock DD, I just plan to do a full rebuild, all new exhaust, and like Boxcar said, the Corolla carb swap.

Just so everyone can compare apples to apples who have not went that road.  I spend $600.00 in parts on a rebuild... which did including everything, water/oil pump, timing set, all new gaskets, rings, pistons, etc.  Top end all I did was new retainer clips and all valves/seals.  Then I had another $5-600 in machine work... 3 angle, bore, deck.  You may not spend the what I did but just keep in mind if you "can" find a decent running 16v at the right price then the extra effort is worth it from a money-to-horsepower ratio.  We are talking about roughly 30% increase in power.  It really all depends on what you can do or find yourself i suppose.

But since you're going to eventually use it strictly as a weekend warrior, a full engine swap may be for you, but I've heard with the 1.6 you have to body lift at least an inch which will run you what? Another $100ish?
 

There are swap kits that do not require a body lift.

I used the RRO adapter plate and motor mount system and can't say anything good about it. I won't use RRO anymore because of it.

I will second that.  I had to drill out a motor mount b/c the fitment was not right.  Not to mention they seem to take a long time to send parts compared to others.

ive looked into this as well and if you do the 1.6 get the 16 valve. When i did mine the local machine shop assured me that the 1.3 has a stronger bottom end so i rebuilt my 1.3 and had put a 260 cam and 1.6 valves in it. it runs amazing and has enough power for everything i want it to do. And gearing would also help as well

I have to chime back in.
 So we are compairing apples to appless.
 330 cam $159
 Master rebuild kit$326.79
 Water pump $35.95
Header $144.95
Yota Corolla 1200cc square boar carby $95 NEW
$761.69
$500-$600 Machine work ( probably a bit high , but I'll go with it..)
2" exhaust with flowmaster $125 -$200 in my shop....Depending on how much I like you.....
$1386-$1486 Brand new 90 + hp 1300 Zuke


16 valve:
You'll need the complete engine with all the hoses and pulleys. You'll need the fan, starter, alternator, coil, air cleaner, exhaust manifold and head pipe. With 16-valve engines, you'll need the engine wiring harness, everything attached to the harness, under dash wiring harness, ECM, instrument cluster and air cleaner assembly. Grab the catalytic converter if you can. The donor vehicles wiring harness will need to be modified for use in the Samurai as well as the Samurai speedometer which will need the speed sensor from the donor vehicle adapted to it.
Then pay someone to adapt the harness....
$??
Petro works compleat adapter kit ( no body lift required)
$259
fuel pump $44 for a relay crappy one...
Once installed and working: 99hp and a used engine.........
 We have done a few of these swaps in the past and they worked well.
IMHO $ x hp gains VS. complexity and added problems the Hitachi ECM is prone to...Not a good swap...
 If I had my hart set on a Suzuki 1600 cc swap , I'd opt for the 8 valve with a Yota carb . Better torque / half the headache.
But you will still have a used motor for the same $$$$$
Again JMHO...Not trying to start a tussle here....Boxcar...
PS: I just searched the parts and used the first price that came up, (to be fair...) EXEPT FOR THE Petro works adapter kit...It's the only one I'd recommend......Boxcar...  

what about the 22r?

If I had my hart set on a Suzuki 1600 cc swap , I'd opt for the 8 valve with a Yota carb . Better torque / half the headache.

The 16V has more peak torque than an 8V and has a very flat torque curve, it stomps all over the 8V.


I used a small bonnet bulge to clear the extra height, it keeps the cntre of gravity much lower than using a body lift. The Petroworks kit is good but lowering the engine gives more issues with sump clearance if you don't run a suspension lift.

How does the 16v match up against the 22r?