1st up, sorry about the newby questions.

ok, i have been considering a few mods lately, and there are so many ways you can mod a vit. i have been doing a lot of reading and research on SAS'ing my vit, but i came to the conclusion that my vit will never be legal if i go that way. strict laws in aussie land. and i just do not have the money to get it all engineered if i do go sas. that takes care of why i'm not SAS'ing, plus, i love my IFS too much.

so, unless i leave my vit the way it is, i only have a few choices left, hagen widening, and or yota cv shafts. the yota shaft kit is too expensive for me, so i might just try to get by with the widening instead.

questions.

when re-drilling the rear mount hole(s), are the front mount holes left stock? if the rear of the arm is moved out, and the front is left stock, will this not create more angle and promote premature wear on the bushes, as they are not 'square' anymore?
or is this one of the 'side effects' and changing bushes more often become normal?

the article mentions castor, or an extra 2 degrees of it. i'm not worried, the rear of my vit is about an inch higher, so the castor may make up for the pitch.

camber. will there be more negative? i assume so, as you are moving the ball joint outwards, but i have slightly more positive camber than i would be happy with. problem should be solved.

inner axles. how many do i actually need? 3 or 4? these are for cutting and spacing the right hand side. (i can only refer to things as left hand or right hand, cos you guys over there in america land are a bit backwards, and dont really know what side the steering wheel supposed to be on) anyway, i assume the left hand side shaft, and axle are not modified. right? and the right hand inner CV cup is cut and a flange welded to it. this is the 3 bolt flange. now thats 1 shaft gone. now to space the cv shaft, do i need to or 3 more to space?

if the left hand side is not modified, how does the widening affect it? or will i need to space the left hand shaft too? i will be using stock vit shafts, and not going to anything bigger. (although the yota axles look very very tempting)

also, is anyone able to draw up some front diff lowering brackets for me so i can make them? like the calmini ones? maybe this can reduce the CV angles a bit to let them last longer. i think the calmini ones are lowered 2" only?

i think thats all i would like to know, but i'm sure i'm going to have a couple more questions when i get around to doing it. i just need some spare axles to cut up. more money.

lastly, will this mod work with the calmini arms? reason why i'm asking is, i think the calmini arms are wider than stock ones, and by doing the hagen widening, will the CV shafts be too short? and maybe pop out upon full droop?


rear diff rotation.

i have made a 3" drop bracket for the rear diff ball joint, but this does not have off set holes to rotate the pinion up.

question is, if i make a bracket with off set holes to rotate the pinion, DO i have to relocate the coil seats? ie, move them around so the coil is straight again. or can i leave them as they are.

my shocks touch on the diff housing as they are now, so rotating the pinion up, will move the lower shock mounts under the diff housing, giving even less room. so either way, a lower shock mount needs to be made up. is this a 'anything goes if it works' mod?

OR

can i keep the original lower mount, and make or extend the upper shock mount?

i think thats all for now. i typed this post up a couple of nights ago, and just as i was about to post it up, we lost all power to our house. (severe thunder storms and lots and lots of lightning, which is really cool by the way) anyway, after a couple of days to calm down from being angry that i lost the whole post, i'm at it again.

so thanks in advance to anyone who can help me out. i'm still a broke a$$ student, so mods tend to take a while. and sorry for the newby questions.

The 3 spacers that you use go on the left side as your sitting in the veh. The other side is only the orig. cut on the line and flange welded to it. Yes the front holes are in the same spot, but it dosent bind or wear out the bushings. You might want to add a sping spacer to the front because of the extra leverage that the cont. arm now has due to it being farther out. Yes it works well with the Calmini 3" , I think that is what it was set up with first.

    Good luck
     Kevin

These are the only pics I could find of the widening mod
when I did it, but I didn;t do it like Mike did it, I had a spacer
made for the left side, and extended the cup on the right side

The shocks will hit some unless you extend the lower mounts,
but if you can get shocks that can mount upside down they
will clear, I have some designs for better shock mounts, but
nothing produced, my design is a weld on for the Crown Victoria
Ford rear shocks.

The rear spring axle perches can be moved, but in my oppinion
they work fine in the stock position, and the springs will not break
The front springs get more angle than the rear ever will

Wild

i'm building balljoint spacers to hope fully to make it easier to widen the front end. going to be testing soon .     stan