Why is it I can't edit my own posts when I'm on another computer while I am logged in

Found the backspacing"thing" and it is what I thought I'd have to measure, found this pic:


courtesy of:
http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/Tires.shtml#WHEELS

I'll measure tomorrow and order the Hi-Link Extreme if the backspacing is enough !

If I remember correctly,he said a 2.5 min, that would mean that the farther they stick out the better,his arms are prob. more streight than trail toughs and the others and would hit the inside of the tire and wheel.

If I remember correctly,he said a 2.5 min, that would mean that the farther they stick out the better,his arms are prob. more streight than trail toughs and the others and would hit the inside of the tire and wheel.

Copy from his Email:

With these "Hi-Link" systems you cannot run a wheel that has more than 3.5
inches of backspacing and you will need to be sure your front axle is not
moved forward as they steer from the front of the tie rod like the factory
original.

I saw another manufacturer mention 2.5", cant rembemer which one, saw them all the last couple of days

Ya I run both the t.t. and the one from r.road but I run the tie rod in the stock location down below,I heard that the tires wear more on some setups when up above with the drag link,(I run more street than trail and rocks)so my front end being moved forward does not affect anything. and I have run 3.75 and 2.25 back spacing no prob.

I don't think your problem is with your steering set up.

When you said that you have a 2" shackle lift, are you stating that you have shackles that are 2" longer than stock (1" lift) or 4" longer than stock (2" lift)?

Either way, you have drastically changed your castor angle.  A drop Pitman arm, OTT steering system or Z-link is not going to help this at all.

To correct this, you would either need to remove the shackles, or shim the axles.  

Quite a few of the zuk vendors sell shims, check out the bottom of this page...
http://www.rocky-road.com/zuksteer.html

Bump steer is from your drag link not being parallel with your tie rod or front end or the ground when looking at it from level ground.

Received the Extreme Hi-Steer from Acme today ( got held up |removethispart|@ customs for some time   ), hope to install it this Sunday when I start with the SPOA preperations.  Just have to see how my back behaves, hurt it very bad yesterday ( took yesterdayafternoon/evening, today and tomorrow off |removethispart|@ work to wrench on the Zuk, and then this happens    :-/ )

Of course there will follow a webpage about the install and my experiences with it !

May seem like a silly question but when you put in your shackles did you add the 3 degree shim correction?

I put shackles on mine and have not yet put the shims in to correct the pinion angle and steering caster.  Since I was not told at the time when I ordered the shackles that this was needed I found out later reading about the Fredurai in Petersons 4 wheel off road.

On the highway it can be a pretty hairy drive.
I'm ordering mine next week.

I would think that a drop pitman arm along with a high steer arm at the knuckle would virtually eliminate bump steer.

(get that drag link parallel with the ground.)

I also know that a mercedes steering arm works on the sammy knuckle.  If you get the ball joint hole tapered correctly (from the top) you can even get the drag link higher and thusly more level with the ground.

I might try that route first, over getting a drop pitman arm.
Then if you need an arm, measure how long it needs to be to get the drag link level.

My to cents

~Nate