This was translated and copied from http://www.offroad.org.tw/dousun/gv/%E5%A2%8A%E8%BB%8A%E8%BA%AB%E8%88%87%E5%91%BC%E5%90%B8%E7%AE%A1%E6%94%B9%E8%A3%9D.htm
5. Pad 3.5 "automobile body:

Regarding GV automobile body barrier height aspect Needs the reequipment.. are not many But the procedure actually is most numerous and diverse Take my barrier height 3.5 "as the example: Around 煞車油 tube.. Water tank.. Thrust augmentation box row of catch rod.. Steering wheel machine column.. Around guarantees the pole.. Fuel tank pipeline.. Engine room related line release.. And so on 00 numerous procedures are numerous and diverse all must change and the revision Usual When automobile body barrier height. The vehicle often remains reequipment factory foot 3 day above the reequipment time to be able to bring to go home..



Barrier height 3.5 "set of


The common pad automobile body goal is for fill a bigger tire But wraps a type also many But I choose this set of another reason am because this set of certainly does not need to cut the original automobile body anchor screw Another day if will want to reply the original factory highly quite to be easy...

Automobile body barrier height situation


This pad automobile body set of advantage lies in it to be possible to retain the original automobile body fixed 鏍 silk But the mouth font 5mm reinforcing steel also coordinates the summer beam fixed stand Above has the 15mm 硬橡皮 pad between the reinforcing steel and the automobile body Next has the circular 卡座 to be possible to write down in the summer beam set groove But 15mm 硬橡皮 regarding suppresses the automobile body to vibrate extremely has the help....

OK I've been doing some thinking and looking at these pics and here's what I have come up with.

He used 3x3x3x1/4 box tube with  a large hole in the bottomit to make room for the bolt head a 1/2 thick 2in dia.  pice weilded to the bottom.    The rubber spacer is about 1in think and 3in dia.  (This I just need to find a place to get it from. )

I don't think that would be to hard to make. It's the spacer for the strut trower brace that's going to be a b*tch.  So if I do this I guess I could one of two way make the brace (some how) or cut the wheel well.  Hummmm.

Any thoughts anyone???
George  

Hey George,

I almost have everything to start on mine. I think I am planning on cutting well a bit so that the brace will just fit in with a coaxing. That was my biggest hurdle I could see as well before I start. The other one being the front brake lines. The only way I can see do this is to order a brake tubing bender (that you can borrow after I am done) to put a slight kick down in the hard tubing and redrilling the well to get that extra 2" needed. The only problem then will be the tabs for securing the line. I am looking at maybe some zip ties for this or spring bound clip. Lots O pix will be coming soon. I hop to start this weekend if weather permits. If not I will wait and take some time from work to get 'er done!  

When I talked with Tim who has done a 3" bd lift on a GV.  All he did was redrill the hole down 3"  and repassed the brake line through the wheel well wall to the engine bay.
George

Yep, that's what I was talking about doing. I was wondering about the clips though that hold the line to the strut and the top of the spring cup. How is he keeping the line from flopping around in there?

....snip.... It's the spacer for the strut trower brace that's going to be a b*tch.  So if I do this I guess I could one of two way make the brace (some how) or cut the wheel well.  Hummmm.

Any thoughts anyone???
George  

I've come up with a plan. Since the stock XL7 upper strut mount is rather large in comparison to the Trackick, you could adapt a plate to sandwhich between them. This will lower the upper mount of the strut by 2+". The large strut nut on top will sit inside the XL7 mount. The plate will have to be spaced enough to clear the nuts for the Trackick mount from the XL7 mount and that's it. Simple enough. I've cut some plate, need to clean up the cuts, drill some holes, pop out the Trackick studs, paint the plate, adapt the plate to the strut and XL7 mount. Then I could keep the truss.

.....SNIP...... Then I could keep the truss.

???All I have to say is, I guess I am more of a visual person. I can't picture at all what your talking about. Got any pics or can you do a simple drawing?

Thanks in advance.

I'll get some pics together tonight. However, it won't be with the XL7 mount. This is due that I'm still using the vehicle. However, in my webshots, I've got comparisons side by side of the 2 upper mounts.

Here are some pics I was referring to


Picture of the Trackick upper mount and lock washer and the cut plate. The outer figure of the plate still needs trimming to make it a little neater along with holes drilled. 6 holes will be drilled, 3 for the Trackick, and 3 for the XL7's strut mount. I don't have an XL7's upper mount free to add to the picture, I'm currently using both of mine.


The idea of the Trackick mount bolting from underneath. It's kinda high here in the pic due to the studs which haven't been pushed out. But the Trackick will be bolted to the underside of the plate.
The XL7's will be mounted to the top of the plate. The bolts securing the XL7's mount will be longer and there will be a small spacer between the plate and the mount. This is due to the nuts holding the Trackick bolts. Also, since both mounts are triangular shaped, I'll offset the holes.


Gives the impression of the offset. The XL7's will be drilled into the larger corners.

What this will do is keep the XL7's mount in its stock location, thus use the stock cross brace support.

nomaad so what happened to those pics of your 2"bd lift???

They are coming, I am just back to work today. Been down with the flu for the past week. Now everyone in the house has it. Busy, busy. But while the boss is away, I will play and try to get the write up done today. Boy was that a rhime or what?!

Alright here is a link to the prelim document. I am still fine tuning but it will get you started I think. It is a PDF and you will need Acrobat to view it. If you don't already have it you can download the reader at adobe.com for free. Any insight or other issues that need to be covered let me know. I will be putting up the bumper reinstall stuff tomorrow.

http://www.carneyco.com/NomaadRROBLInstall.pdf

Good write up !!!
George

BEFORE:


AFTER:

Also put up a new PDF with some spelling corrections and a couple of other pics.

http://www.carneyco.com/NomaadRROBLInstall.pdf