looks like at least 1 bent spring  and the anti wrap bar on the axle if not done right can cause a binding issue

Okay, first batch of pics includes Shackles of front and rear on Passenger side:

Second batch includes spacer, pass side suspension points, and transfer cases.

Ok, the shackles a certainly a problem.    It looks like he just found some longer springs and threw them on there without bothering to modify anything else.  Concidering the arch of the springs I would recommend either building new mounts front and rear so you can make the springs fit properly or just find some stock Samurai springs and putting them on.

Or if you want to keep a softer ride pick up a set of Jeep YJ springs and pick up a conversion kit from Trail Tough or one of the other sponsors of the board.

I also don't like the look of those rear shackles, so you might want to replace those as well.  Replacing the front ones couldn't hurt.  Once you get the springs fixed you should be able to look at mounting some shocks.  Can you send a picture of how the axle mounts to the springs so we can see if there are any shock mounts there?

Roger that; I'll snap some shots of it tomorrow.  Thanks for looking.

this thing looks like it has great potential!  im jealous of the tires btw   like drone said i would work on both sets of shackles, if you stay with those springs for now or period i would look into getting a Rear Up Front(RUF) suspension conversion.  those springs look like they are too long which also i think adds to the rough ride.  when the springs have room to move/travel it will help smooth it out.  once again like drone said, trail tough has a good product, thats what i got when i did my RUF, and you can get some good shackles that would be alot safer than those rear ones and the stock front ones.  how fast have you gone in it thus far?  everything i have heard is its kinda dangerous to drive it w/o shocks altho im not exactly sure why but just something to think about 

Everything i have heard is its kinda dangerous to drive it w/o shocks altho im not exactly sure why

The problem with riding without shocks is that there is very little to stop your vehicle from bouncing once it starts.  If you hit a bump at speed your car will act like a bobble-head doll and just bounce around until it eventually runs out of energy, or you crash.   The shocks absorb the energy, which is why it is important to have a shock that is correct for your application.  To heavy of a shock and you will have a rough ride as your suspension cannot move the shock.  To soft and it can't absorb the energy properly and you get to much body roll and to bouncy of a ride.

On his rig right now the springs are acting like a solid piece of steal as they have no room to flex, so shocks are a moot point.  The only thing absorbing bumps is probably the tires and the spine of whomever is in the car. 

Yes, back hurts...I took everyone's advice and have some stock springs on the way, courtesy of eBay. The current springs in the rear are wider than the fronts and both are atop the axles. My friends and I believe the leafs are from Jeep (perhaps the YJ thing that everybody talks about). Anywho, I have the factory springs on the way and I will use his plates with the shock mounts. Once I get it all assembled and shackles, free-swinging, I'll take measurements for some shocks---hopefully my back won't be so abused after that, LOL. Thanks for all of your input, guys (and gals?). Any other suggestions/recommendations regarding the suspension, leafs, plates, or shocks?

We are very excited to get it going. Today, I removed the grill and painted it, removed the single seat and installed two high-back, racing seats that were in a Fox-body Mustang, and they are on tracks; yay, adjustable seats, woo-hoo! :-)

Let's see you get everything in place first, then dream up what to do next. 

What do you plan on using the Samurai for?

We live out in the country on a rural piece of property and I plan on using it there, mostly. However, it may visit a mud hole now and again. To me, this is kind of an entry level Zuk as it has no title and some stuff has already been done. If all goes well, I would really like to  get a decent, titled Zuk and build it up slowly, the way I would like it. This one will just give me a taste and give me some ideas. Any ideas on what size shocks? It has over-the-axles leafs and a 3" body lift. Thanks again

talk to Low Range Offroad, 801-805-6644

They have been able to answer anyquestion i have thought up to throw at em

Used factory leafs arrived and somehow the fronts don't match, leaf-wise; three on one and four on the other (Huh?). Anywho, another one is on the way.

1) Which is better, the three leaf or four; does that mean they were from different years or 4wd vs 2wd springs?

2) From the looks of it, my Sami has rears in front but they seem too long. Is there a modification kit that I need to use or just longer shackles?

3) Should I put the fronts up front and rears to rear or should I use rears all the way around? What would that do; good or bad idea?

4) Might I be better off junking the whole suspension and starting with a complete kit from one of our site sponsors? I hate to open the wallet and sift through my lint but I am not digging do all of the back-tracking and un-charlie-foxtrotting someone elses' work; you know?

5) Based on the fact that I do need shackles, new U-bolts for the axle housings, and shocks, maybe #4 is the way to go. That said, which is the most economical and functional without having to refinace my home??? LOL Thanks for everyone's help.

On my SJ410 I had a 4 leaf pack in front and back, but I believe the stock Samurai rear has a 4 leaf plus over-load spring that is flat.  I tend not to run that as my SJ-410 didn't come with one to begin with.

Running the rear springs up front, or RUF conversion, gives you a softer ride.  But you will need to make a new shackle mount 3" further forward and put a 1" drive-line spacer in, or alternatively use a folding shackle setup like Trail Tough makes or you can build your own.   Check out http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/suzuki/samurai/suspension-parts/front-missing-link-kits-ruf-swap-parts.html for an example.

Keep the rear springs in the rear, and if they sent you all the same length I would go with rears all around.  If not I would put the Samurai back to stock so you can try out the suspension in a working form before you start modifying.

Unlike some of the others I like your set-up and am very interested in your post because I want to run 12.5 35 BFG's on my Samurai in the near future.

Here are my thoughts...

Previous owner did some spring experimentation to get the required lift. They got what the wanted with out regard to ride. I didn't see many leaves so I'm guessing your springs are rock hard.

There are no shocks absorbers in the world that will change that because your springs don't flex. Shocks absorb through dampening the upward and downward movement of the spring flex.

So unless you go back to the drawing board and change those spring you can rename your the "Ruff Rider".

35 /36's are a lot of tire under these little rigs. From what I see it takes a combination of lifts to achieve this and maintain a somewhat kidney comforting ride.

I think it takes something like this:

3" spring lift
6" SPOA lift
2" XHD Shackles
2" body lift

Your there height wise now but your ride is crap. Unlike most of us you need to come down some. What you might do is remove 1 inner leaf and see if this improves your ride. By removing springs you will reduce the stiffness and most likely some of the spring arch. In appearance you have plenty of height so a leaf removed should not hurt you.

Like the previous owner you get to be the pioneer here so take some time and play with it. Yours is an easy fix but the is no direct advise that can be given to you unless the previous owner offers to tell you where the springs came from. Then you can figure out the spring  compression ratio and could take them to have some compression removed by re-arching them.

Early comments about tires have some bearing on your situation.It looks like you have either Ground Hawgs or Grand Prixs on your beast. Hawgs are hard by nature and whine like no other tire movin down the road. BUT they flat eat on 1st pass through mud. Being directional if you run out of juice moving forward you have 1 pass to get out in reverse and then its pretty much over. Lower pressure on Hawgs will ride a little better but not much.

Please keep us informed cause as I said I want to get where your at "up in the clouds".

Dang I wish I lived closer.....  

                                                                                                    Tux...

I run 33x12.5" tires on my SJ-410 with around 5-6" of lift and some fender trimming.  I originally ran old-school BFG MTR's with no trimming in the front, just some work with a hammer.  After switching to Pro Comp's and an RUF conversion I had to trim the front fenders a bit.  But now I have more then enough room to run 35x12.5" tires, just haven't had a reason to.

After having build the 4 link in the rear I would recommend switching to coils for anyone with the mechanical ability to weld one up and the shop to build it.  Much nicer riding, better control and a built in traction bar.  But it's not for everyone and it did cost me close to 300 to build.  A spoa with stock springs is much easier, cheaper and more then enough for almost anything.