Has any body with a 1994 sidekick had their ignition module on the coil mount act up or take a digger!before I spend a bunch of money on a new one I would appreciate some feedback!
Thanks
Kj

Can you post a pic? It's not a Ballast Resistor is it?

Wild

No, they call it an ignition module in the book. It is square and has three wires and mounts to the top of the coil bracket. I've check censors fuel pressure and it is still running inconsistant. It will miss and sputter a little and then bad. It will be doggy with no power and ping. Then it won't ping and run decent, peppy and decent power but still has slight mis. I'm about to sell it!

I wanted to add I back probed the oxygen sensor and it was all over the place. I set the meter on 20v and it was varying from .19-8.3. Does this look like an injector problem?
Thanks for the help
Kj

Can you correct the text so I know what you were trying to do?

Sorry about that. I was checking the oxygen sensor out put in volts. It was all over the place so I pulled the injectors and put the injectors in that came out of the old engine. They helped but it is still crapping and missing at steady throttle. It quits when I unhook the throttle position sensor. I checked the tps and it is in spec. I checked the fuel pressure and it was good, it should be, it is new. I'm about to unplug the tps and drive it! I haven't changed the ignition module yet. 

I guessing here it's a 16V engine? because you swapped the injectors (multiple)
but if you were talking about an 8V engine I would say the MAP sensor vacuum
line is off or has a leak.

For a 16V engine you have a MAF, and it may need to be cleaned, don't touch
anything inside the MAF, just get a can of MAF cleaner or electrical cleaner and
spray the crap out of it, also make sure the MAF is installed the right way, it makes
a difference. Is there a MAP sensor also? I'm not sure if a 16V has one of those also.

As a side note, the O2 sensor reports the rich/lean of the exhaust to the computer
as a +/- voltage (narrow band sensor) so the sensor is working, it's showing what the
exhaust is to the computer, it doesn't control the computer, it just reports what it
see's so the computer can figure out what it needs to do to get the perfect mixture

If you are 16V is it also OBDII??? Have you tried to pull codes??? this can save you
a bunch of time and money on parts

Wild

Thanks Wild! It is an obd 1 16valve. I have cleaned the maf and swapped in a known good on and didn't change. I have tested all sensors. The injectors I pulled out had gummed up fuel in them so I'm glad I changed them. There isn't a map sensor on there. The thing runs good with the tps unplugged, I don't understand that. This all started when I was driving thru town at light throttle in third gear. Thanks for your help

It isn't throwing codes either

OBD1 is really basic, if it's a minor problem like missing it won't
tell you anything.

The TPS part is what is baffling me, because you tested it, of coarse you
checked it for the proper position when you did that, or did you pull it out
of the throttle body? I had a problem on my trucklet, long ago, was the
plug wires, they just needed new ones, was a sort of miss driving down
the freeway, felt like fuel because it would sort of stumble, then pick up
and run OK, but would repeat over and over, but at no predictable interval.

What happens when the spark drops off is the O2 sensor reads unburned
intake charge as lean, even tho if it were to have lit in the cylinder it would
of been a perfect mixture, so the computer goes to work enriching the fuel
mixture and that can lead to more miss fires and more enriching, it's a compounding
circle effect.

Have you done the plugs and wires? even checking for the correct gap? cleaning
and wires might be all that's wrong, and seeing you have ruled out all the hard stuff
that might be causing the computer to make it run bad, this might be it.

Also one last thought, oil or water down in the spark plug holes on a 16V could
be causing miss fires from grounding to the head

Wild

Yes, I agree with you. I did new tune-up and even went back to the wires and such that came with the engine, it was all new stuff. I swapped in my old distributor and it ran the same. I'm leaning on the ignition module but they usually go or blow. I'm really experienced with the chevy cars and trucks and the h.e.I. Module will blow or some times it will just send the dwell all over the place and kind of run like mine. I checked the spark plug hols and the are dry. I swapped out tps sensors and readjusted per haines manual(scary). I think something is causing the computer to lean and richen the mixture,(you said that) and when I unplug the tps it quits. The GIGO you mentioned. I'm really leaning toward the module but something is telling me in the back of my mind, Not It! I would be throwing more money at the wrong thing. I wish I new someone that had one I could try!
Thanks for all of your help. It is greatly appreciated!
Kj

I wanted to add that when I hold a steady 1800rpm it will run a little and then go dead for a second just has if you turned the key of and then back on.

Have you monitored fuel pressure at the same time as the
engine is running and dieing? how about air filter and fuel filter?

Also try to watch the spark when this dieing is happening, I have
seen a spark monitor that lights up so you can see when the spark
is hitting the plug, put it on the coil wire and watch it

I'm just throwing some ideas out there beyond what we have covered

where are located? the little box is also call an igniter

Yeah that is it. I'm thinking I'm going to do the coil first and the igniter second. I live in monmouth, OR