I agree, running cold is not a long term solution.  I just thought it might hide some symptoms when it is this way.

I guess I will try different brand of thermostat tomorrow and failing that do some head gasket testing.

I'm not sure what mrfuelish is referring to about rubber wearing down.  The pulley that drives the pump is just a metal pulley on this model.  Maybe on the 1.6 things are different.

Thanks again for all the guidance and help!  Will report back tomorrow.

He's referring to the crankshaft pulley - not the pump pulley.

The J series (and H series) Suzuki engines have one significant difference from the perhaps more conventional cooling systems (like the G series) - the thermostat is located 'downstream' from the radiator, in the cool return side of the loop AND THE COOLANT FLOWS THROUGH THE THERMOSTAT IN THE REVERSE DIRECTION.

It is important to recognize this for two reasons ...

 - the first reason is that the thermostat is not sitting in the water outlet elbow surrounded by hot coolant - it requires coolant to be circulating through the heater core and returning to the back of the thermostat to warm the wax pellet - if this flow is blocked the thermostat will not open - you can bypass the heater core with a loop of hose to check to see if a blocked heater core is the problem.

 - the second reason is that the wax pellet in the thermostat has to push the valve off of the seat IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION TO THE FLOW OF COOLANT.

Once you have verified that a blocked heater core is not the cause of your problem, I suggest you try an SGP thermostat (it should be available from SouthWest Suzuki motors)

I don't know about the 1.8, but when installing a thermostat in a 1.6, the thermostat bleed hole should be pointing to the front of the engine.  I've never done it differently so don't know what the results would be.

additional info:
http://www.kick-fix.com/buy-parts.html#STAT18

I believe it needs to be at 12 o'clock position on the 1.8.

Trying new thermostat here momentarily...

I actually think towards the front of the engine would make more sense.  That would put the pellet closest to the return line.

Going to give that a try as I couldn't get a different brand thermostat until tomorrow.

I actually think towards the front of the engine would make more sense.  That would put the pellet closest to the return line.

Going to give that a try as I couldn't get a different brand thermostat until tomorrow.

I covered this a few posts earlier - if you put the wax pellet closest to the return line - where would it get the hot water it needs to open?  In this design, the thermostat is dependent on water flowing through the heater loop to warm it so that it opens.

Also -  if I remember correctly - there isn't enough room in the thermostat cover for the wax pellet - the thermostat can only fit one way.

Sorry, perhaps my wording was not clear.  I was referring to the return line from the heater core, which is where the hot water comes from.

The thermostat is still inserted the correct way.  The opening is offset so I tried rotating it differently so the jiggle pin was to the front of the engine and the valve is closer to the back which is where the return line from the heater core comes in.

This did not help.  Waiting on another brand thermostat on monday.  Until then, she's running open loop with some cardboard on the rad.  It's maintaining temperature nicely like this so it will do for now...

this is sounding better. if the head gasket was leaking, i don't think you'd be able to run it long before it would start puking.
i'm interested in what happens with the new thermostat....

Sorry, perhaps my wording was not clear.  I was referring to the return line from the heater core, which is where the hot water comes from.

The thermostat is still inserted the correct way.  The opening is offset so I tried rotating it differently so the jiggle pin was to the front of the engine and the valve is closer to the back which is where the return line from the heater core comes in.

This did not help.  Waiting on another brand thermostat on monday.  Until then, she's running open loop with some cardboard on the rad.  It's maintaining temperature nicely like this so it will do for now...

Ok - I get you now - the jiggle pin needs to be at the top - it's purpose is to allow trapped air to bleed.