http://www.kick-fix.com/specs/VIN-motor-decoder.html

The number is on the passenger side of the motor, back above the lower bolt that attaches the tranny to the engine.
Yes, AT and MT ECMs are different.  Since you are running a manual tranny behind it, you can use either ECM, it doesn't really matter.
You can post a wanted ad in the classified section, for a harness and ECM, once you determine what year you need.
Yeah, if you switch to a carb (which I highly DO NOT recommend), you could get rid of the ECM and all the associated wiring.  But if you decide to and are going to just throw the ECM in the trash, I'll take it.

Once i figure out what ECM I need and get it plus the harness, you can have it. You wouldn't happen to have something laying around?

Also, what would I do for a gas tank.  Will the Tracker pump and cage work in the sammy tank?

Once i figure out what ECM I need and get it plus the harness, you can have it. You wouldn't happen to have something laying around?

Also, what would I do for a gas tank.  Will the Tracker pump and cage work in the sammy tank?

Once you figure out what year engine you have, I can look to see what I have.
The trackick hanger is too short to reach clear to the bottom of the samurai tank.  You could either extend the hanger, or use a trackick pump on the samurai hanger, or run an external high pressure pump.
I have used trackick pumps to replace samurai pumps....so they will interchange.

The sammy hanger that came out of the tank is trashed and replacements seem expensive.  I might have luck with the JY's and pulling a tracker assembly and making it work.  I will search around on what needs to be done to extend it.  I perfer to have the tank mounted pump, they seem to last longer.  But if I did run an external pump, would the carbed sammy tank work? does it have a return line built in?

I've been pricing all I need for the tank, the tank, pump hanger, pump, and sender and it starting to look like it might cost just as much as a Petro Work's large tank w/ pump ($500).  I'm trying to keep this on the cheap.

Yeah, the samurai hanger is probably expensive (never priced one), and used ones may be hard to find.  The trackick hangers are easy to modify (just cut them and make the longer, so they reach the bottom of the tank).
The trackick hanger will bolt right into an EFI samurai tank.
You can use a carbed samurai tank and put an in-tank pump assembly in it (I did it to one of mine).  If you end up using a carbed samurai tank, you have to cut a hole into the top of it and put the ring in that the hanger bolts to.
If you run an external high pressure pump, you can use a carbed samurai tank.  The biggest line is the main feed line, but the next biggest line is what you use for a return line.
If you can wait for the right deal, or can find stuff in the junkyard, you can do it way cheaper than $500.  Other than the samurai tank having crap in it, is there anything wrong with it?  Can you just clean the tank out and reuse it?

The fleet mech here at work said it's done for, no way to clean it like needs to be.  Carbed tanks are much cheaper so I might go with an external pump, they are louder and might not last as long but it would be easier to get at it when it goes bad.  The Carbed tank does have a return line you say?

Right now i'm dealing with the rust issues in the cargo area so I have time to collect parts, JY, trade, good deal and so on.

Yeah, I just put an external high pressure pump on a samurai that was originally carbed (did an engine swap for a guy).  And used the stock lines that ran to and from the carbed tank...worked fine.

I hope this helps.  I didnt get one of the air cleaner on, it looks like the original Samurai.

maybe I did get it.

That looks like a 1.3 intake to me.  So I'd say he put the 1.3 intake and TB on the 1.6 head and block.
That is good and bad.  Good that you know the wiring isn't "adapted", so there shouldn't be any wiring issues from being hacked and spliced.  Bad that 1.3 intakes and TBs usually don't work too well, when using them on 1.6 engines.
Man there is a lot of rust and corrosion on stuff.  Where do you live?

Well I hope it will run.  Why do they run bad?  I'm near DC ,
you should see my rust thread.  It sat uncovered for 7 years.

Well I hope it will run.  Why do they run bad?  I'm near DC ,
you should see my rust thread.  It sat uncovered for 7 years.

The earlier ones had issues with the ECMs going bad, but that generally isn't an issue with 94s.
Fuel pumps occasionally go out too (and since you said the tank had sludge in it...I would say the fuel pump is bad).  Coils sometimes go bad.  Sometimes they have distributor or ignitor issues.
When you turn the key to the "run" position, do you hear a click come from behind the glove box after about 3 seconds (you should hear the fuel pump relay click off)?
Also, since the fuel tank had crap in it, some of it could have gotten into the fuel filter (on the inside of the frame rail, above the rear axle), and it could be clogged.
Oh, and since it sat for a long time, the injector could be stuck too (I'd say it more than likely is).  The injector is located under that dome shaped piece in the middle of the TB (throttle body).  You can remove the dome shaped piece, pop the injector out (either grab onto it with pliers and rock it back and forth while pulling up...just don't squeeze it too hard and damage/break it....or you can remove the FPR (fuel pressure regulator)..the FPR is the round cylinder thing on the front of the TB (2 screws, top and bottom, that hold the FPR to the throttle body), then blow compressed air into the FPR hole in the front of the TB and it should pop the injector out...have a rag over the top of the TB and hold it down with your hand, to keep the injector from flying out),  and push the pintle (the pointy needle looking thing on the bottom of the injector) firmly down on your fingernail....you should be able to feel and/or hear the pintle move (it barely moves, so you have to pay close attention.
Yeah, I just saw your rust thread earlier....it is pretty bad.

Yea the pump was toast.  Im going clean out the fuel system after the rust is under control.  Assuming that everything works as it should, is there going to be a problem with the 1.3 stuff running the 1.6 stuff?  Im not overly concerned that I won't get the full full benifet of the 1.6 motor, just that it will be reliable.  I will at some point get everything switched over to 1.6 stuff but it may be down the road a bit.  And thanks for the tips on cleaning things out. 

When I ground the relay it will click, I think the bad pump may have blown it so it wont do it when I switch to ON. 

Some people have issues with the engine missing or stuttering, when trying to run a 1.6 with 1.3 EFI.
The relay could be bad.  You could always swap it with the main relay (the main relay is right beside the fuel pump relay) and see if it works as a main relay.