I know this has been talked about before, and I went through a lot of threads looking for more info, but still haven't found anything info wise I can use. This thread is NOT about the pros and cons of anti sway bars, so skip the debate. All I want to know is has anyone fabbed up some kind of quick dissconnects for the Trackick ASB, and got any photos? Also anyone running an ASB with lift, and a skid plate? The links for the trackick asb are pretty short. Splitting them in the middle and using pins and some kind of sleave is going to be next to impossible without lengthening the link. I've got some room to lengthen the link since I've got  lift on the front, but would tipping the asb up a bit, at the link affect how it works?  So anyone? 

 I can say from personal experience from my roadcourse racing days that the closer to level/flat that a ASb is, the better that it performs, as it is torsion bias based. Let me go dig out the ASB from my Tracker that I threw out and look at the links on it. I have had to make "discos" before for shortlinked trucks, like the Ford Exploder, and I ended up replacing the bottom part of the link with a hitch pin, several washers and a hairpin clip setup. Are these things setup with a ball/socket style link? If so, then you can do something similar maybe to the above.

When you and I were at RC I was running with only one front sway bar link. I just remove one link and let the bar on and the other link hooked up. It was the first time I had tried it and had no issues with running it that way. If the bolts are not rusted it's not much work to just remove one side. Yes I have the factory skid plate. Did it help articulation, don't know? Did the Blue Tracker go some places the Red one didn't try? LOL

Thanks guys for the replys. Yes the trackick asb has a ball and socket type link, very much like a tie rod end. A simple pin and washer would be easy enough, just wondering about the strength of the drilled stud on the end link and the strength of the clip. An idea at least.

Just a suggestion.

Remove the standard end link altogether and fabricate a clevis type fitting that can bolt to the control arm at the bottom like the end link does, and the sway bar will fit into the clevis at the top with a cross pin to hold it, and a clip to secure the pin.

 I am sitting here with the ASB next to me and I think that you could do something like fordem suggested, with the needed offset. I know that the Jeep XJ and ZJ ( Grand Cherokee ) use links that are offset some and have NO trouble with them. If you are a decent welder, why not simply take a set of those, cut them down to size, and weld on a double shear clevis bracket. As for the retaining pin being strong enough to hold, that is a non-issue as you can run the 3/8"  pins, they are plenty strong for the little Suzukis. I agree that the strength of the drilled out FACTORY "socket" even with a bushing installed with welding, would be questionable. I will see if I can find an old Jeep link in the garage to post up for you to look at.  Give me a few...   



    Going to garage to look and then take pictures....

Stupid computer. I am having to use my kids' computer and the FUTTZINg card reader doesn't work!!!!!!!!  Okay. I took shots of the Jeep link to show how it is offset and it will work IF you cut the long leg out that is below the barrel bushing. Then weld the barrel end back on to the piece that you have left. Install the link, with the pin and clevis going through the ASB and then into the link. Shim with washers as needed to get correct fit, and install hairpin retainer clip. I used this set up on my old XJ with NO troubles EVER, plus it is a very common thing, even in the lift kits that you can buy. I did have to find a way to keep the ASB restrained so that it wouldn't fall down and get wedged into something. I used a "dogbone" type double clip hook for a dogchain and a loop of chain bolted in up under the fender to secure the ASB when needed.

Hey Fordem, that's exactly what i drew! Seems we all ( Wrex, gearjam and Fordem) got the same idea, great minds think alike as they say .  I think I can weld something up without too much issue, and I may even be able to modify some jeep stuff. Lots of cheap heep links on ebay. I also took another good look at the control arms, and with the amount of lift I'm running there's a considerable drop and angle on the a arm so I'd have to extend the stock links a couple inches minimum anyway. That should leave me some room to shorten some jeep links to fit. I'm thinking I only need to disconnect one end of the link, say at the control arm, then fashion some kind of retainer like Wrex talked about to hold the whole mess outa the way.

Trackasaurouswrex, I'm about to go scour ebay for some links and such, unless you've got some leftover parts you'd like to sell?

 Hey, Bentparts. Give me a couple of days to round up a set, and you can have them for the cost of shipping. They should fit in the flatrate box easily.

 HOLY SH!T! I just figured out how to get around the lockout that my kid put on this computer! Now, I can post the pictures that I took for you earlier showing how I was looking at doing the links, Bent.

 

 

 

 

 

 Go check out any Cherokee, and this is baiscally what you will see for the link/ASB setup. I am now thinking about putting the ASB BACK on, and making some links for it from the XJ stuff...

Thanks that's GREAT Wrex! Let me know when your ready for some $ and my shipping addy. Time to warm up the welder!

 No trouble! It might be a couple of days while I ransack the garage, or maybe got hit the 'yard. We got almost 8" of snow starting about 2.30 this morning, so I don't think the 'yard is going to be a go just yet. Like I said, though, I will go ransack the garage, as I need to find some more stuff and today looks like agood day to do it.

No worries bud, just another wintertime project in the works, along with a complette re-do of my front suspension. Got plenty o time.
BTW, those kids sure do know how to safeguard their computers!

Just a thought I've knocked around my 'fuzzy' head before. I'd like to do some kind of quick disconnect too, & here's what I thought might work:
Instead of having the disconnect at the control arm ends, cut the bar between the frame mounts... Drill say, two holes (or maybe one large hole) in one side, & weld a sleeve with matching hole(s) on the other. Then use heavy bolt(s)/wingnuts to connect/disconnect the two halves. This would give you sway bar on road, easy disconnect for off road, & avoid the "What do I do to secure the bar while disconnected?" problem. I could see a potential problem re-aligning the holes after wheeling, if on uneven ground etc, but... hrm...
What do you guys think? Pipedream or possibility?

Fuzz

Those are going to be some small diameter bolts - I would think you'll find them being cut quite easily.