Hi all,

I ordered a new t-case from one of the online vendors.  It came with 6.5:1 gears and it also came with the new front output shaft.  It was just too good of a deal for me to order one prebuilt and just send my core back to them.  I love the simplicity of it.

So I have a few questions since I am such a newbie at this.  I spent the afternoon unbotling the existing t-case and removing it from the Sami.  I bolted up the Mighty Kong bucket and also tested fitted the shifter so I was sure how it all went back togeather.  Question 1 is, will it be easier to install the t-case and mount as one unit?  Question 2 is, will it be easier to install the shifter after the t-case is back where it needs to be?   Its be about 25 years since I have seriously worked on a car other than new brakes, some bulbs and othe minor stuff.  So yeah, I want the easiest way to get it done.  I also broke one of the t-case mounts getting the old one out.  Is there a cheap place online for a replacemetn or should I just pick one up locally if they have one?

A more serious question that may stop everything in its tracks is below in the picture.  This is where the 4x4 switch goes and I see nothing in the hole that will trigger the switch.  Is this correct? 


Sorry for relying on you guys for this small stuff.  I know I'm a big boy and should know how to do this.

Thanks,

Rob

Yes you mount the kong to the case first and install it together, do not over tighten the bolts I would only do like 15-18 lbs on them with some blue loc-tite, take the shifter out and stuff a paper towel into the hole, the switch shift it into 2 wd and then into 4 wd and see what moves in the hole, I would order a new mount or two from trail tough they have the non brazilian ones that will not fall apart on you,on the shifter boot make sure you get it lined back up in the correct position or it will popp out of 4 wd low on you. good luck.

Thank you for your reply.

I put the shifter in and shifted it.  I didn't see anything move in the switch hole.  I'm assuming that is bad?  Anything else I can try?

Thanks for the order of install too.  I will get a couple of mounts ordered too.

Rob

There is a ball that goes in that hole, before you screw the switch in.

Thank you.  I will have to look for the ball in the old case or where I drained the old t-case at.

If I can't find the old one, any idea what a good replacement would be?

Rob

The ball can't come out, unless you remove the switch.  So unless you removed the switch, you won't find it in the oil of the old one.
Another steel ball (ball bearing ball, etc.) the right size, would be the only thing I would know to use.  I don't know the size, off the top of my head.

Thanks.  I was in the process of swapping cases today.  I will look in my old case tomorrow.  To lazy and clean to go get dirty again tonight.

Rob

I found the ball in the oil I drained out.  Catastophy adverted.

Thanks for you help guys!

Rob

Make sure you use lock-tight on the mounting bolts for attaching the t-case to the cradle.  Otherwise they can work their way loose and you can break your t-case housing.

You also asked about a mount that broke.  I have looked at Trail-gears.com's aftermarket solid aluminum mounts and have thought about using something stronger then the factory rubber mounts but I am not sure that is a good idea.  You think you would want some movement from torque demands and have that twist transfer into the T-case and crack the housing.  Does anyone else use solid mounts like polyurethane or aluminum? 

P.s. Trail-gear aslo has the factory rubber mounts.

I considered getting some solid mounts, but it was not advisable in the instructons.  I opted to get three new OEM mounts.  Jonny Rash once told me they act like fuses for the drivetrain.  I can see that and I'm good with a little give in the system as long as I don't break anything.

I broke the mount trying to get the 20 year old stuck nut off.  Otherwise the mount looked good.

Rob