How is this done ? i have seen some websites tryn to eplain it but there is no instructions !!!
can anyone PLZ help me on that ??
I realy want to try it and would like someone that can give me GOOD AND CLEAR instructions ..
THank you in advance

1. Jack front up and support with jack stands.
2. Remove rubber strut mount on top of strut, 3 small nuts
and the one big one in the middle, pound out the studs in it,
you will replace these with bolts, grade 5 or 8 not hardware store junk.
3. Flip the mount over and use the new bolts to fasten to the frame, use graded nuts too
as well as lock washers and locktite, blue or red will work fine, red is stronger and harder to remove.

The cupped part of the mount now rests where flat side used to, you want to use some small washers in this cupped side to support the mount better and prevent crushing it. These washers can be ungraded flat hardware junk if you wish.

4. Now torque all the bolts using locktite and a torque wrench to factory specs.
THIS IS IMPORTANT!!  I once lost the big strut nut going down the freeway, twisted the whole wheel axle strut assembly right off the vehicle as well as having no brakes when the brake line got ripped loose. Cost me $140 bucks just for the tow of 10 miles.

did I miss anything?? any readers can post to suppliment any over looked points.

Good Luck  and happy wheeling

PS  if you don't have any suspension lift, there is not much point to doing this mod.

PS  if you don't have any suspension lift, there is not much point to doing this mod.

Well that sums it up hehe
At least i know more about that mod no whehe

the strut mount  flip is done so you can then remove the lower ball joint from inside the lower control arm and bolt  
it on below the control arm to give you a free 1 inch lift up front ,and use a spring spacer in the rear of the vehicle .you flip the strut mount so your strut is not to short .  but if you do this you must make some sort of spacer so as not to crush the end of the lower control arm .  when you reattach the ball joint .  
                                                       
          Jake

Good point, my 89 does not feature the A-arms that the ball joint slips into,
mine bolt right to the top of the A-arm, I do have a set of the newer A-arms
that I was going to put on as I would gain about 1 inch clearance from A-arms
to the ground.

I built a set of spacers to lift the suspension 3", I have since added some
length to the stock springs by cutting and welding a short peice of a 4 door
front spring to the stock one, or was it the other way, stock to the 4 door  I
can't remember right now. I then built a strut mount that is 3" longer so I don't
really need the spacer flip as I'm at about maximum travel.
I might build a custom front A-arm that will widen 2 or 3" and move the front
wheel forward about 2 or 3" along with a couple of TJ coils and custom CV joint
shafts that slip in the middle should help with an increase in ground clearance,
better turning radius and an increased approach angle, currently approach is
about 70 deg.  

Thanks for the input.
Darrin

has any one done the relocation of the lower ball joint, if so what did you use for the spacer to fill in the gap left by the original mounting spot.  also did you use new bolts??

shane

Bump

How is this done ? i have seen some websites tryn to eplain it but there is no instructions !!!
can anyone PLZ help me on that ??
I realy want to try it and would like someone that can give me GOOD AND CLEAR instructions ..
THank you in advance

Here is what your strut will look like with the mount flipped.

And here is the studs Wild was talking about getting knocked out.

Would it be beneficial to suggest to mount the strut to the flipped mount prior to bolting the mount back into the tower? This way, you can use a pipe wrench to secure the nut to the strut.

(I had to do it this way for the -7).

I did, but I used an air impact and a vice.
Zig

couple more pics of flipped strut mounts:





Heather

I noticed a lot of pics of the plastic rod guard on the strut. When I had my -7 apart, that cover got in the way too much.

Is it's purpose is to keep debri from ruining the rod like a shock boot? Is it really necessary?

PS  if you don't have any suspension lift, there is not much point to doing this mod.

It gives you around 3/4" more strut travel. The stock strut only has around 4" of travel so thats a 19% improvement for no money (or very little). On stock suspension you need all the articulation you can get  

Now I definately wanna try it on my ride   will do this summer and see how it articulates then