ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: wildgoody on January 21, 2006, 11:54:56 PM
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Got the parts over to get machined,
this is going to work out really nice.
Features that are planned with this kit
1. Rear disk brakes are added with this kit
2. New super tough axles
3. Rear lockouts for easy flat towing
4. Uses stock SideKick/Tracker front bearings
5. Easy to change axle shafts, no wheel removal
6. Parking Brake integrated Rear Calipers
The Estimated Cost of kit $700-800 Includes
Axle Shafts
Rear stub spindles
Caliper Mounting plate
5.5" on 5 Hubs
Hub and Axle Bearings
Brake Lines and All Hardware
to install the kit
Parts you need to purchase
Hub Lockouts
Rotors from SideKick Front/Cone bolts
Calipers from rear Nissan Maxima
Brake Pads
Still need to see if the parking cable from
the stock Track/Kick will work with the rear
Nissan Caliper parking brake actuator Smiley
For any comments or questions Reply here,
PM or E-mail me (info in my BIO)
Wild
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I love the idea! Pull the 3rd without messing with the brakes... Yeah!
BUT, do you think the front lockouts will take the abuse? if so, great..
I would be interested in a full floater rear! with Disc brakes... HELL YEAH!
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Sorry for my ignorance, but what is a "Full Floater Rear Axle" ?
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It's a term from full size 4x4 ing..
A full floater axle means the the wheel/hub is supported by it's own bearings, and the axle will slide completely out, with the hub still connected to the vehicle. The axle "floats" and isn't supported by bearings at the the wheel side, so you can unbolt it, and slide it right out.
There are many advantages of a full floater, one being less stress on the axle, but a GREAT advantage is being able to pull the axles without messing with brakes, wheels, hubs, etc. just a series of bolts around the outside.. you can pull the axles and still tow the vehicle.. with a locked rear end, you can break an axle, and still get out of the woods.. just pull the broken axle (or the outer piece of it in many cases)
Also, for pulling third members, it is great, cause you just pull each axles a few inches, unbolt the pumpkin, and pull her out!
Disc brakes on top of it, make it a real winner.. I will be watching this with great interest
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If you don't like the manual hubs idea you should be able to get a set of drive flanges off of a 99+ Tracker/Vitara/GV/XL7 and use those.
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Calipers from rear Nissan Maxima
What year range of Nissan? I believe that they varied.
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Late 80s I don't have an exact year in mind,
I was looking in general at the cars in the
wrecking yard that had rear disk brakes, and
which ones would make it easier to find cores
for exchange or rebuild.
I would have used Saturn rears, but they are
hard to find, not what you want after you buy
a kit, can't find the $%#|removethispart|@& parts to make it work
Always thinking of the best solution and ease of
installation, no hard to find parts, and stuff that
is off the shelf parts store, where posable
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So you decided to stick with the standard 26 spline axle size. Makes it easy for selling a kit.
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Actually after the initial kit, I'm working with
the axle maker to re-spline sidegears to accept
a 28 spline axle shaft, then you would put Toyota
lockouts on the outer side with 30 (I belive) spline
in them, problem is you got to pull the 3rd and replace
the spider gears, it would be sort of bolt in, but not
quite as user friendly as a true bolt in.
Working on this end of it still, first things first ;)
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Hey Wild, did you install this kit yet? Have you worked out any of the bugs? I want one ;)
Kevin
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I just need to pickup the calipers and get the
caliper mounting plates cut out, then I'll get
the axles cut to fit the width.
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3. Rear lockouts for easy flat towing
Would the rear lockouts also make a streetable spooled rearend?
What are the pros and cons to doing this for a spooled rear?(or Front)
Is this cheaper than doing the 9" ford mod? The ford would be stronger wouldnt it?
Jeff
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If you don't like the manual hubs idea you should be able to get a set of drive flanges off of a 99+ Tracker/Vitara/GV/XL7 and use those.
I'd trade my flanges for manual hubs any day!
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3. Rear lockouts for easy flat towing
Would the rear lockouts also make a streetable spooled rearend?
What are the pros and cons to doing this for a spooled rear?(or Front)
Is this cheaper than doing the 9" ford mod? The ford would be stronger wouldnt it?
Jeff
I'm curious about this too, the 9" seems like an extremely strong axle.. same bolt pattern as suzuki's as well
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I'm curious about this too, the 9" seems like an extremely strong axle.. same bolt pattern as suzuki's as well
Check the tech archives
http://www.zukiworld.com/month_070103/feature_hagen_ford9inch.htm
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I looked into a Ford 9", yes they are strong, and
have good gear availability to match the 5.83s
offered by Calmini, BUT it was going to be about
$2500 to have one ready to bolt into a Track/Kick
Mind you this was including the gears, but :o that's
a lot of bread man, So I continued the Full Floater
project, wanting to keep my Track, Kick as close to
Suzuki parts as posible.
As a note: I got the Calipers and a mount today, looks
good, i have a few more details to work out, but I think
this is going to be a really nice bolt on Mod, rear disk with
a Parking brake, easy to find and not huge expencive.
As far a spooled diff, the lockouts should not be affected,
and as far as strength goes, stock 26s are adiquate, not the
best, best costs $$$ I'm not saying it won't be available in
a larger spline count, but remember, these are going to be
a special built axle, and not an India import either, lets see
how they hold up, I will work on the bigger axles after the
prototype is up and running.
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yea, understandable, things get expensive and your idea sounds like it's considerably stronger than stock.. also if it does break it won't be nearly as bad seeing as how it's fully free floating.. yup, I think I'd someday like to put a 9 on my GV.. someday, someday
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Hi Wild,
Stick with the stock 26 spline axle size - just make sure you get strong axles made. 4340 deep hardened would be more than strong enough ;)
With the load of the wheel , rim , brakes etc etc taken out of the equation the axles will survive considerably longer.
44's - here we come ::)
ZeusZuki
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Can you put in a rear spool, and then only lock one side so you dont have the problems you would have with being locked up on the pavement?
I know a 2dr can get away with a spool on the street, but I do not like the idea of my 4dr being locked all the time.
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Can you put in a rear spool, and then only lock one side so you dont have the problems you would have with being locked up on the pavement?
I know a 2dr can get away with a spool on the street, but I do not like the idea of my 4dr being locked all the time.ÂÂ
that doesn't seem possilbe to me.. if it does I'd like to know about it because it would be quite interesting. a spool eliminates your spider gears/differential and then you are locked solid 100% of the time. a friend of mine welded his 4wd 4 runner's rear end and drove it on the street.. chirped the tires at times when turning but it worked, another friend of mine spooled his ford 9" on his wrangler and ended up breaking it so bad that even the housing is trash. he also killed some good tires awefully fast. you can get by with driving a spooled or welded rear on pavement, just don't be surprised if you kill your tires or end up snapping an axle
like I said, I really want to hear about it if you could lock only one side, sound like it would actually be a help, but I have never heard of it
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Can you put in a rear spool, and then only lock one side so you dont have the problems you would have with being locked up on the pavement?
I know a 2dr can get away with a spool on the street, but I do not like the idea of my 4dr being locked all the time.
that doesn't seem possilbe to me.. if it does I'd like to know about it because it would be quite interesting. a spool eliminates your spider gears/differential and then you are locked solid 100% of the time. a friend of mine welded his 4wd 4 runner's rear end and drove it on the street.. chirped the tires at times when turning but it worked, another friend of mine spooled his ford 9" on his wrangler and ended up breaking it so bad that even the housing is trash. he also killed some good tires awefully fast. you can get by with driving a spooled or welded rear on pavement, just don't be surprised if you kill your tires or end up snapping an axle
like I said, I really want to hear about it if you could lock only one side, sound like it would actually be a help, but I have never heard of it
They do make electric lockers, that are open until you throw a switch...which would acomplish the same thing..driveable, but locked when you need it. But they are pricey.
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Can you put in a rear spool, and then only lock one side so you dont have the problems you would have with being locked up on the pavement?
I know a 2dr can get away with a spool on the street, but I do not like the idea of my 4dr being locked all the time.ÂÂ
Yes it's doable but imagine the load going through just one axle shaft :o especially if you are putting the power down. Offroad when you bust one side you can unlock that side and the load is still being shared with the other three axle shafts.
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Can you put in a rear spool, and then only lock one side so you dont have the problems you would have with being locked up on the pavement?
I know a 2dr can get away with a spool on the street, but I do not like the idea of my 4dr being locked all the time.ÂÂ
that doesn't seem possilbe to me.. if it does I'd like to know about it because it would be quite interesting. a spool eliminates your spider gears/differential and then you are locked solid 100% of the time. a friend of mine welded his 4wd 4 runner's rear end and drove it on the street.. chirped the tires at times when turning but it worked, another friend of mine spooled his ford 9" on his wrangler and ended up breaking it so bad that even the housing is trash. he also killed some good tires awefully fast. you can get by with driving a spooled or welded rear on pavement, just don't be surprised if you kill your tires or end up snapping an axle
like I said, I really want to hear about it if you could lock only one side, sound like it would actually be a help, but I have never heard of it
They do make electric lockers, that are open until you throw a switch...which would acomplish the same thing..driveable, but locked when you need it. But they are pricey.
yea, electric lockers are the way to go if you have a good load of money.. or air ones, not sure which is better
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Yes, you could only lock one side,
but the result would be worse than
with a locker, on accel you would be
pushed by one side, and it would
make you do unplanned lane changes
Wild
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My jeeper friend said that in the snow you do not want your lockers on. The suggestion is you could do a front locker and when not in 4wd no locking, but you would be locked when in 4wd. He had a auto locking hub front set up, and was going to mod it to be manually done from the inside, and the only one would be engaged all the time while driveing on ice and snow. I just thought you have to pay attention when on the snow when both front wheels start spinning.
Does that 9"ford really cost that much to do? WOW