ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: samuraisean on November 22, 2007, 08:40:08 AM
-
I Am having trouble trying to remove my doors for paint and repair plus i want to see how they look off. I am following the screws around and they keep trying to strip. not quite there yet. Phillips was a bad idea in my opinion. Does anyone know of a easy way to remove theses screws, any special tools. I am trying not to use heat. thanks and happy thanksgiving
-
Those are a bitch. >:D You need an impact screw driver to get them on and to fasten them back so your doors dont fall off. . Available at napa and maybe other autopart stores for about $20.00 for an adequate one. You will probably have to get new screws when you're done if you have boogered them up. They are real easy to booger up. If you don't have the tool, stop until you do. A bad design I agree. Screws like this are found on most autos though.
Maybe someone here knows of a torx or other alternative. ???
-Adam
-
thanks for the idea. im going to take a trip to the hardware store and fidn somethign else a torx or alan is perferred but if it comes down to it i would rather a hex head then go back to the phillips.
-
I have found that using a prick punch held at an angle at the edge of the bolt and smacked with a decent sized hammer does about the best job with the least amount of damage, and you can use the screws again. And you don't really need to use the impact driver to tighten the screws when you put the doors back on. While you have the doors off, cut the hinges so all you have to do is lift them off.
-
I have found that using a prick punch held at an angle at the edge of the bolt and smacked with a decent sized hammer does about the best job with the least amount of damage, and you can use the screws again. And you don't really need to use the impact driver to tighten the screws when you put the doors back on. While you have the doors off, cut the hinges so all you have to do is lift them off.
Using a prick punch has it's drawback. You would be going at an angle and run the risk of having the punch jump and gouge your door or even miss it with the hammer. Either way, the screws are hard to get off. That's why I recommend having some new screws handy. Modifying the door hinges for later removal is a good idea as well.
I had such a hard time removing a couple of screws one time that I ended up grinding off the heads (carefull not to grind the hinge) and when the hinge is out of the way, you take vice grips on the small remaining stud and twist it out. I told you they can be a bitch. >:(
-Adam
-
grinding was another idea I had tonight, the srcews are completly stripped now. Does the factoy use threadlocker? do you just cut a notch in the upper part of the hindge? the vertical part kind fo wrapped around the pin. Its the best way i can try to describe it
-
Using a prick punch has it's drawback. You would be going at an angle and run the risk of having the punch jump and gouge your door or even miss it with the hammer.
You have to have the punch at a 90deg. angle to the head to set it before you go at the angle with the punch. Helps keep it from skipping across the paint. The first few hits with the hammer helps to loosen the screw.
-
grinding was another idea I had tonight, the srcews are completly stripped now. Does the factoy use threadlocker? do you just cut a notch in the upper part of the hindge? the vertical part kind fo wrapped around the pin. Its the best way i can try to describe it
And samuraisean, the factory does use a thread locker.
To mod the hinges, this is the way I did mine. First I removed the hinges from the body and door so I could work on them at a work bench. I used an air powered die grinder and cut the top loop of the hinge off of all 4 hinges. I then cut the top pin down about an eighth of an inch (helps when you put the doors back on as you can index the bottom hinge first without fighting to index both the top and bottom pins at the same time) and then I ran a drill bit through the door part of the hinge where the hinge pin goes, I used a bit a size or two larger than the stock hole size.
After all the cutting and drilling I filled all the sharp edges nice and neat and also kinda rounded the hinge pins and the hinge pin holes to help indexing them on door reinstallation. The biggest pain I had was realigning the doors to the body to make the cut hinges work.
-
Thanks this is very helpful. I am going to give it a shot in the morning. one more question do the doors vibrate oe rattle any when the hindges are cut. it wont be a big deal but its something i would like to know thanks again
-
I use a #3 philips bit and hammer it into the screw and put a real small cresent wrench on it, then get a long throw air impact hammer with about 60 psi with a blunt bit in it,put it against the #3 pull the trigger for about half a second and put a small amount of pressure on the cresent and they will come out with out even messing up the paint in the screw. Long throw air hammer not short.
-
Where did my reply go????
Anyway, I have no more vibration or rattles than before I cut the hinges. And when the doors are they are no looser than before the mod. And if you do drill out the hinge hole, don't go much larger than the stock hole. I only opened the holes up a tad bit to help installation. I did not go an 1/8th an inch larger, and you really do not need to do this step.
-
I went on the search for an alternative when i did mine! Slim pickings since it is a truss head screw and being metric is worse yet! Checked with Fastenal and some other bolt suppliers with no luck! In my opinion the hammer driver is worth its weight in glod for Sami teardown!!!! 8)
-
Hey samuraisean, i have my hinges cut on mine and you only live like 20 mins away or so. if you want feel free to come on by and take a look for yourself if youd like. ill be here all day workin on mine.
-
impact screwdriver from harbor freight tools 37530-0VGA for 6.99 online i paid 9.99 for mine i have not stripped a screw yet. If you have already done the damage you might try cutting a slot in the screw head and use the flat bit.
-
impact screwdriver...
Those do not always work, I have the torn up bolts to prove it. >:(
-
If they dont come out with the impact driver they were destined to stay or meet Mr. ViceGrip!!! I also had to heat a couple of those bolts to get the factory locking compound to give!! Fire is a smidge harsh on the paint though!! :P :(
-
If they dont come out with the impact driver they were destined to stay or meet Mr. ViceGrip!!! I also had to heat a couple of those bolts to get the factory locking compound to give!! Fire is a smidge harsh on the paint though!! :P :(
I forgot about the vice grips. They can be hard on the paint too. Of course you need just the right pair of vice grips with the right bite. Cheap or worn ones will slip right off.
-Adam
-
I used a bolt bitter by irwin and it gripped it just enought to get a couple loose, I do not know how it did it but whatever. Im about to grind the heads off and try the vise grip thing.
-
It looks like you are going to be fighting rust also. Try taking a punch and setting it square in the cross of the philips head and smacking it a couple of times really good with a heavy hammer. The shock of the blows will help loosen the crud around the threads of the screw. And I still recommend the prick punch method, if they get stubborn use a chisel at an angle.
The first time I tried to remove those screws I the impact driver which just stripped the bit index. I almost got drastic and welded nuts to the heads to remove them until I tried the punch method. But I was trying to save the stock screws. If you are planning on just using bolts, try the weld on nut method.
Take a nut and weld it to the head of the screw from the inside of the nut, then just grab a socket that fit's the nut and a breaker bar and them screws will come out as you have added enough heat from the welding to help loosen them and can now get enough torque from the nut to trun them. And the welding method causes less damage than grinding and just using heat from a cutting torch.
-
I completely agree with welding a nut on them and turning them out with a wrench or ratchet.The heat might also help loosen the thread lock compound,and if done properly should not harm the surrounding paint.
-
If your doors are well aligned and your going to cut the hinges for quick removal you can just carefully grind the heads off on the body portion, cut your hinges then slide the half over the now studs sticking out of your fender and weld the hinge to the studs. smooth it add and a shot of paint voila! Trick looking hinge and quick release doors.
You could also do this to the door end as well so you have that " No bolt look"
-
I'm doubting you have access to a welder. Just try to to salvage the hinges and get some new screws or something to reinstall the hinges. Use some blue med strength lock tite (at least) so they don't vibrate back off. If you end up making the hinges a permanent fixture to the body, take the necessary precautions to prevent rust. I would be afraid to make it permanent because if they do rust, you want to be able to get them off and replace them.
I have a tin top and was thinking about making my doors removable. Makes it easy for a big guy like me to work under the dash and I think it would look cool for the summer. 8)
-Adam
-
You really do not need to add any loc-tite, it will just make removal a bitch all over again the next time. The screws are not in a vibration prone area. I have removed my door hinge screws many times and they tend to take a set as compared to getting loose.
-
You really do not need to add any loc-tite, it will just make removal a bitch all over again the next time. The screws are not in a vibration prone area. I have removed my door hinge screws many times and they tend to take a set as compared to getting loose.
I thought the whole Samurai was a vibration area. :laugh: :laugh: Suzuki put them on with a impact driver didn't they? Just like the door catch? And the bar that goes across the inside of the roof on the tin-tops? I could be wrong but there sure are alot of screws (and bolts) on these Suzukis that require impact tools to remove.
-Adam
-
I originally removed my first set with a hammer and punch. For years after that I removed, and installed them with an impact screwdriver and they had never come loose or create vibrations.
I only recently cut my hinges on my latest Sammy just to quicken the whole process.
If you want to stick with bolts, take one of the ones you could salvage to a Fasteners retailer and get them to match the depth and thread count with a stainless Alen head bolt and keep the key in your glove box! They work well, wont strip or rust and they look cool too!
-
I'm doubting you have access to a welder. Just try to to salvage the hinges and get some new screws or something to reinstall the hinges. Use some blue med strength lock tite (at least) so they don't vibrate back off. If you end up making the hinges a permanent fixture to the body, take the necessary precautions to prevent rust. I would be afraid to make it permanent because if they do rust, you want to be able to get them off and replace them.
I have a tin top and was thinking about making my doors removable. Makes it easy for a big guy like me to work under the dash and I think it would look cool for the summer. 8)
-Adam
I work ina body shop. I am one fo 2 painters, although i paint i have knowledge in the other parts of the field. A welder is an easy thing to get ahold fo for me
-
I thought the whole Samurai was a vibration area. :laugh: :laugh:
-Adam
The Sammy is not a vibration area unless you have something wrong. :o
It's more of a bumpy, bouncy, kidney jarring ride. :laugh:
Sean,
As you have stated that you work in a body shop, use the welded nut method. You have access too the tools to do this.
And the tools to fix the ooops's. :o :laugh: