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Doors

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samuraisean

Doors
« on: November 22, 2007, 08:40:08 AM »
I Am having trouble trying to remove my doors for paint and repair plus i want to see how they look off. I am following the screws around and they keep trying to strip. not quite there yet. Phillips was a bad idea in my opinion. Does anyone know of a easy way to remove theses screws, any special tools. I am trying not to use heat. thanks and happy thanksgiving
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Offline daddyizzle

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Re: Doors
« Reply #1 on: November 22, 2007, 09:04:20 AM »
Those are a bitch. >:D  You need an impact screw driver to get them on and to fasten them back so your doors dont fall off. . Available at napa and maybe other autopart stores for about $20.00 for an adequate one. You will probably have to get new screws when you're done if you  have boogered them up. They are real easy to booger up. If you don't have the tool, stop until you do. A bad design I agree. Screws like this are found on most autos though.

 Maybe someone here knows of a torx or other alternative. ???

-Adam
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samuraisean

Re: Doors
« Reply #2 on: November 22, 2007, 02:46:44 PM »
thanks for the idea. im going to take a trip to the hardware store and fidn somethign else a torx or alan is perferred but if it comes down to it i would rather a hex head then go back to the phillips.
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phloop

Re: Doors
« Reply #3 on: November 22, 2007, 05:46:53 PM »
I have found that using a prick punch held at an angle at the edge of the bolt and smacked with a decent sized hammer does about the best job with the least amount of damage, and you can use the screws again. And you don't really need to use the impact driver to tighten the screws when you put the doors back on. While you have the doors off, cut the hinges so all you have to do is lift them off.
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Offline daddyizzle

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Re: Doors
« Reply #4 on: November 22, 2007, 05:58:36 PM »
Quote from: phloop on November 22, 2007, 05:46:53 PM
I have found that using a prick punch held at an angle at the edge of the bolt and smacked with a decent sized hammer does about the best job with the least amount of damage, and you can use the screws again. And you don't really need to use the impact driver to tighten the screws when you put the doors back on. While you have the doors off, cut the hinges so all you have to do is lift them off.

Using a prick punch has it's drawback. You would be going at an angle and run the risk of having the punch jump and gouge your door or even miss it with the hammer. Either way, the screws are hard to get off. That's why I recommend having some new screws handy. Modifying the door hinges for later removal is a good idea as well.

I had such a hard time removing a couple of screws one time that I ended up grinding off the heads (carefull not to grind the hinge) and when the hinge is out of the way, you take vice grips on the small remaining stud and twist it out. I told you they can be a bitch. >:(

-Adam
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If all criminals were behind bars, there would be no one left to patrol the streets.

86 Samurai Tin-Top stock with a Harley 44 sidedraft carb
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samuraisean

Re: Doors
« Reply #5 on: November 22, 2007, 07:07:35 PM »
grinding was another idea I had tonight, the srcews are completly stripped now. Does the factoy use threadlocker? do you just cut a notch in the upper part of the hindge? the vertical part kind fo wrapped around the pin. Its the best way i can try to describe it
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phloop

Re: Doors
« Reply #6 on: November 22, 2007, 08:01:51 PM »
Quote from: daddyizzle on November 22, 2007, 05:58:36 PM

Using a prick punch has it's drawback. You would be going at an angle and run the risk of having the punch jump and gouge your door or even miss it with the hammer.


You have to have the punch at a 90deg. angle to the head to set it before you go at the angle with the punch. Helps keep it from skipping across the paint. The first few hits with the hammer helps to loosen the screw.

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phloop

Re: Doors
« Reply #7 on: November 22, 2007, 08:15:02 PM »
Quote from: samuraisean on November 22, 2007, 07:07:35 PM
grinding was another idea I had tonight, the srcews are completly stripped now. Does the factoy use threadlocker? do you just cut a notch in the upper part of the hindge? the vertical part kind fo wrapped around the pin. Its the best way i can try to describe it

And samuraisean, the factory does use a thread locker.

To mod the hinges, this is the way I did mine. First I removed the hinges from the body and door so I could work on them at a work bench. I used an air powered die grinder and cut the top loop of the hinge off of all 4 hinges. I then cut the top pin down about an eighth of an inch (helps when you put the doors back on as you can index the bottom hinge first without fighting to index both the top and bottom pins at the same time) and then I ran a drill bit through the door part of the hinge where the hinge pin goes, I used a bit a size or two larger than the stock hole size.

After all the cutting and drilling I filled all the sharp edges nice and neat and also kinda rounded the hinge pins and the hinge pin holes to help indexing them on door reinstallation. The biggest pain I had was realigning the doors to the body to make the cut hinges work.
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samuraisean

Re: Doors
« Reply #8 on: November 22, 2007, 08:47:41 PM »
Thanks this is very helpful. I am going to give it a shot in the morning. one more question do the doors vibrate oe rattle any when the hindges are cut. it wont be a big deal but its something i would like to know thanks again
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Offline mrfuelish

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Re: Doors
« Reply #9 on: November 22, 2007, 09:17:08 PM »
I use a #3 philips bit and hammer it into the screw and put a real small cresent wrench on it, then get a long throw air impact hammer with about 60 psi with a blunt bit in it,put it against the #3 pull the trigger for about half a second and put a small amount of pressure on the cresent and they will come out with out even messing up the paint in the screw.  Long throw air hammer not short.
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phloop

Re: Doors
« Reply #10 on: November 22, 2007, 09:26:49 PM »
Where did my reply go????

Anyway, I have no more vibration or rattles than before I cut the hinges. And when the doors are they are no looser than before the mod. And if you do drill out the hinge hole, don't go much larger than the stock hole. I only opened the holes up a tad bit to help installation. I did not go an 1/8th an inch larger, and you really do not need to do this step.
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Mudjockey#1

Re: Doors
« Reply #11 on: November 23, 2007, 07:33:59 AM »
I went on the search for an alternative when i did mine!  Slim pickings since it is a truss head screw and being metric is worse yet!  Checked with Fastenal and some other bolt suppliers with no luck!  In my opinion the hammer driver is worth its weight in glod for Sami teardown!!!! 8)
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87 sammi

Re: Doors
« Reply #12 on: November 23, 2007, 09:43:42 AM »
Hey samuraisean, i have my hinges cut on mine and you only live like 20 mins away or so. if you want feel free to come on by and take a look for yourself if youd like. ill be here all day workin on mine.
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Offline ilikemud

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Re: Doors
« Reply #13 on: November 23, 2007, 01:55:42 PM »
impact screwdriver from harbor freight tools  37530-0VGA for 6.99 online i paid 9.99 for mine i have not stripped a screw yet. If you have already done the damage you might try cutting a slot in the screw head and use the flat bit. 
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phloop

Re: Doors
« Reply #14 on: November 23, 2007, 07:13:43 PM »
Quote from: ilikemud on November 23, 2007, 01:55:42 PM
impact screwdriver...

Those do not always work, I have the torn up bolts to prove it. >:(
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