ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Technical Discussion - Beginner / Repair => Topic started by: djlantis57 on October 23, 2009, 12:01:50 AM
-
When I first bought the Tracker, I posted on here about idle adjustment. Several of you were very helpful on this. I was able to adjust the warm and cold idle screws (the cold idle screw is on the "kick-up"), and adjusted them until I had no more adjustment...so before it would start and the tach would peg at 3,500 RPM immediately after startup...which I didn't like. So I was able to adjust it down so at a cold start in the morning, it would immediately rev to 2,000 RPM and slowly climb to 2,500 RPM before finally winding down. When the car is HOT and I am idling at a stoplight, it idles just above 600 RPM. I have no more cold idle adjustment, and now I am looking into fixing the idle the right way.
I've looked through my FSM and all I can see, so far, is that it appears to be a MESS of vacuum controls. I don't know sh*t about vacuum systems.
What can I do, myself, to fix this? I know the cold start idle is too high. The problem I am having, is that until the engine warms up (5-10 minutes), it wants to idle naturally at 2,500 RPM, so it is like an automatic cruise control in 1st gear and gains speed in 2nd quickly until it idles back down. Any suggestions??? They'd be greatly appreciated. Or if you could refer me to a specific set of instructions in my FSM, since I haven't found anything helpful in there.
-
There is a throttle "kicker" that affects the cold idle, take a look, it has a vacuum hose going to it.
Also check the hose routing, see if its been messed with, there should be a diagram on the hood,
a little confusing at first, but you can figure it out if you start following the hoses
Wild
-
Yes I know the cold-idle kicker, I've adjusted that screw all the way already...I'll look more into teh vacuum system...my FSM discusses it a lot I guess I just need to read more
-
Check the two little vacuum solenoids at front of your motor (above alternator). I had one of them go out and had 2k+ cold idle. Replaced it with used parts from another motor and idle returned to normal. (I can't remember which one it was.)
-
Pull your ecm and check that the capacitor isn't leaking, My 90 sidekick did the same thing no matter what adjustment I made it wouldn't idle down.
-
If the ECM caps are leaking your idle will go to 0 in time ;)
Wild
-
Check the two little vacuum solenoids at front of your motor (above alternator). I had one of them go out and had 2k+ cold idle. Replaced it with used parts from another motor and idle returned to normal. (I can't remember which one it was.)
Where are these exactly?
-
Right next to the timing cover. One is Blue, and the other is Brown. I think it was the Blue on that I cracked. When I replaced it the proper idle returned.
I will post photo's tomorrow.
-
Right next to the timing cover. One is Blue, and the other is Brown. I think it was the Blue on that I cracked. When I replaced it the proper idle returned.
I will post photo's tomorrow.
THANKS
I am sure I know what you're referring to now. I'll be checking them out when I get a chance. Not a lot of time right now, things are very hectic. I haven't been able to read my FSM at all.
What did you do to these soleniods to fix the problem? And how were you able to test them?
-
I leaned against them and cracked one. I found a tune up guide, and it had pulling the hose off the solenoids to test them, and it failed the test. I had an extra pair from a motor swap, so changed it out. I do not remember where I found the guide.
-
Right next to the timing cover. One is Blue, and the other is Brown. I think it was the Blue on that I cracked. When I replaced it the proper idle returned.
I will post photo's tomorrow.
Right above the water pump in photo
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/Suj7qi5w4DI/AAAAAAAAFwU/9ayY0jglkeg/s640/CIMG0137.JPG)
Well I just went out and disconnected each solenoid, and did not go to fast idle. So now I don't know why it stopped my fast idle.
(Just swap my motor in and it will idle just fine.)
-
(Just swap my motor in and it will idle just fine.)
Then you'd be forced to do your XL-7 powertrain swap huh?
Well leaving on a hunting trip tomorrow...so I won't be fixing it until after the 10th, because next weekend I will be gone also, going to the desert. Once I get back things will be much quieter around my house, no more hunting and we won't be going to the desert until after the new year.
I'll look into those solenoids, I thought that's what you were referring to, but that clears it up, THANKS
-
Right next to the timing cover. One is Blue, and the other is Brown. I think it was the Blue on that I cracked. When I replaced it the proper idle returned.
I will post photo's tomorrow.
Right above the water pump in photo
([url]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/Suj7qi5w4DI/AAAAAAAAFwU/9ayY0jglkeg/s640/CIMG0137.JPG[/url])
Well I just went out and disconnected each solenoid, and did not go to fast idle. So now I don't know why it stopped my fast idle.
(Just swap my motor in and it will idle just fine.)
BRD HNTR, before I left town on Friday I was fiddling around with the idle to see if it had any more adjustment. I got a little more adjustment out of the screw, but it definitely needs to idle lower still. The "blue" solenoid in your picture has a hose that goes to a little vacuum diaphragm to the right (fender) side of the throttle body, I believe that is the EGR (correct?). The "brown" one has a line that goes directly to the cold idle kicker. When I pulled the little cap off, the vacuum diaphragm moved. When I pulled the line off the solenoid above the brown plug, the diaphragm moved also. So this tells me they are still working correctly since it still provides enough vacuum to the diaphragm to pul it in. Something else is causing the high idle... ???
-
(Just swap my motor in and it will idle just fine.)
Then you'd be forced to do your XL-7 powertrain swap huh?
Well leaving on a hunting trip tomorrow...so I won't be fixing it until after the 10th, because next weekend I will be gone also, going to the desert. Once I get back things will be much quieter around my house, no more hunting and we won't be going to the desert until after the new year.
I'll look into those solenoids, I thought that's what you were referring to, but that clears it up, THANKS
You have that right.
Try pulling the line off the bottom of the cold air adjust solenoid. Now that you don't have hunting to do, its time to get the ride functioning right. (I still have it as an excuse.)
I may have sold the 1.6L 8v, so the power train swap will have to start.
-
Try pulling the line off the bottom of the cold air adjust solenoid.
And then what?
-
Try plugging it with finger, thumb, to see if it is leaking through. My COLD IDLE went from 1700-1800 to 900 when I replaced the cracked solenoid. If your motor returns to just slightly higher idle when warm, but very much higher when COLD, it has to be in the cold air system. You could have an air leak somewhere, but that should increase idle all the time. It does not take much to break those solenoids. A small speck of dirt cam cause them to not fully close to.
-
Thanks BRD HNTR I'll be trying it out sometime. The thing that is on my mind lately is that I have adjusted the cold idle screw all the way out, so it doesn't ever touch the cold idle vacuum kicker. So whether or not that vacuum diaphragm is pulled in or out, the screw does not touch it, so it's racking my brain how it still has a high cold idle when the screw is adjusted all the way out that it can't even touch the cold idle kicker. It's sat overnight and I won't drive it to school today so by the time I get home it will be cold enough to start. If I can't figure it out it will go to the shop...along with having the clutch checked out. I still need to replace that distributor seal.
-
You know there are 2 idle screws right?
one on the kicker and another on the throttle body bell crank
Wild
-
Yeah, there are two screws, the cold idle (on the kicker) and the warm idle, on the throttle "pulley" (is that what you mean by bell crank?)
-
Just below the TBI there is an electrical connection with 4 wires, 2 wires go to two different solenoids/actuators. Disconnect the connector. One of the devices should be for air injection, and I do not recall what the other one does. It should run a little richer, because the air injector is not connected (but it is not injecting air either). If this works, either buy the parts, run with the connectors off, or cut the wires to the air injector and run with the other one connected.
I ran a couple of months with the connector off. Mileage did drop from 22 indicated to 20 indicated.
-
Reviving this dead post from last month or so...
Any new suggestions? I've tried everything with those vacuum caps, removing them does not change the high cold idle whatsoever. Wondering if anyone has any new thoughts on this...otherwise I give up and pay my mechanic friend to figure this out because I don't like having the "automatic cruise control" in the morning for the first 5-10 minutes of driving...
-
Some good tips & tests here:
http://www.kick-fix.com/IDLE-AIR/Bad-Idle-Index.html (http://www.kick-fix.com/IDLE-AIR/Bad-Idle-Index.html)