When I first bought the Tracker, I posted on here about idle adjustment.  Several of you were very helpful on this.  I was able to adjust the warm and cold idle screws (the cold idle screw is on the "kick-up"), and adjusted them until I had no more adjustment...so before it would start and the tach would peg at 3,500 RPM immediately after startup...which I didn't like.  So I was able to adjust it down so at a cold start in the morning, it would immediately rev to 2,000 RPM and slowly climb to 2,500 RPM before finally winding down.  When the car is HOT and I am idling at a stoplight, it idles just above 600 RPM.  I have no more cold idle adjustment, and now I am looking into fixing the idle the right way. 
I've looked through my FSM and all I can see, so far, is that it appears to be a MESS of vacuum controls.  I don't know sh*t about vacuum systems.
What can I do, myself, to fix this?  I know the cold start idle is too high.  The problem I am having, is that until the engine warms up (5-10 minutes), it wants to idle naturally at 2,500 RPM, so it is like an automatic cruise control in 1st gear and gains speed in 2nd quickly until it idles back down.  Any suggestions???  They'd be greatly appreciated.  Or if you could refer me to a specific set of instructions in my FSM, since I haven't found anything helpful in there.

There is a throttle "kicker" that affects the cold idle, take a look, it has a vacuum hose going to it.

Also check the hose routing, see if its been messed with, there should be a diagram on the hood,
a little confusing at first, but you can figure it out if you start following the hoses

Wild

Yes I know the cold-idle kicker, I've adjusted that screw all the way already...I'll look more into teh vacuum system...my FSM discusses it a lot I guess I just need to read more

Check the two little vacuum solenoids at front of your motor (above alternator).  I had one of them go out and had 2k+ cold idle.  Replaced it with used parts from another motor and idle returned to normal.  (I can't remember which one it was.)

Pull your ecm and check that the capacitor isn't leaking, My 90 sidekick did the same thing no matter what adjustment I made it wouldn't idle down.

If the ECM caps are leaking your idle will go to 0 in time 

Wild

Check the two little vacuum solenoids at front of your motor (above alternator).  I had one of them go out and had 2k+ cold idle.  Replaced it with used parts from another motor and idle returned to normal.  (I can't remember which one it was.)

Where are these exactly?

Right next to the timing cover.  One is Blue, and the other is Brown.  I think it was the Blue on that I cracked.  When I replaced it the proper idle returned.
I will post photo's tomorrow.

Right next to the timing cover.  One is Blue, and the other is Brown.  I think it was the Blue on that I cracked.  When I replaced it the proper idle returned.
I will post photo's tomorrow.

THANKS
I am sure I know what you're referring to now.  I'll be checking them out when I get a chance.  Not a lot of time right now, things are very hectic.  I haven't been able to read my FSM at all.
What did you do to these soleniods to fix the problem?  And how were you able to test them?

I leaned against them and cracked one.  I found a tune up guide, and it had pulling the hose off the solenoids to test them, and it failed the test.  I had an extra pair from a motor swap, so changed it out.  I do not remember where I found the guide. 

Right next to the timing cover.  One is Blue, and the other is Brown.  I think it was the Blue on that I cracked.  When I replaced it the proper idle returned.
I will post photo's tomorrow.

Right above the water pump in photo


Well I just went out and disconnected each solenoid, and did not go to fast idle.  So now I don't know why it stopped my fast idle.
(Just swap my motor in and it will idle just fine.)

(Just swap my motor in and it will idle just fine.)

Then you'd be forced to do your XL-7 powertrain swap huh? 
Well leaving on a hunting trip tomorrow...so I won't be fixing it until after the 10th, because next weekend I will be gone also, going to the desert.  Once I get back things will be much quieter around my house, no more hunting and we won't be going to the desert until after the new year.
I'll look into those solenoids, I thought that's what you were referring to, but that clears it up, THANKS

Quote from: BRD HNTR on October 27, 2009, 09:20:29 PM

Right next to the timing cover.  One is Blue, and the other is Brown.  I think it was the Blue on that I cracked.  When I replaced it the proper idle returned.
I will post photo's tomorrow.

Right above the water pump in photo


Well I just went out and disconnected each solenoid, and did not go to fast idle.  So now I don't know why it stopped my fast idle.
(Just swap my motor in and it will idle just fine.)

BRD HNTR, before I left town on Friday I was fiddling around with the idle to see if it had any more adjustment.  I got a little more adjustment out of the screw, but it definitely needs to idle lower still. The "blue" solenoid in your picture has a hose that goes to a little vacuum diaphragm to the right (fender) side of the throttle body, I believe that is the EGR (correct?).  The "brown" one has a line that goes directly to the cold idle kicker.  When I pulled the little cap off, the vacuum diaphragm moved. When I pulled the line off the solenoid above the brown plug, the diaphragm moved also.  So this tells me they are still working correctly since it still provides enough vacuum to the diaphragm to pul it in.  Something else is causing the high idle... 

Quote from: BRD HNTR on October 28, 2009, 07:44:34 PM

(Just swap my motor in and it will idle just fine.)

Then you'd be forced to do your XL-7 powertrain swap huh? 
Well leaving on a hunting trip tomorrow...so I won't be fixing it until after the 10th, because next weekend I will be gone also, going to the desert.  Once I get back things will be much quieter around my house, no more hunting and we won't be going to the desert until after the new year.
I'll look into those solenoids, I thought that's what you were referring to, but that clears it up, THANKS

You have that right.
Try pulling the line off the bottom of the cold air adjust solenoid.  Now that you don't have hunting to do, its time to get the ride functioning right.  (I still have it as an excuse.)
I may have sold the 1.6L 8v, so the power train swap will have to start.

Try pulling the line off the bottom of the cold air adjust solenoid. 

And then what?