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ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Technical Discussion - Beginner / Repair => Topic started by: seanshipley on September 22, 2011, 05:10:07 AM
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I have a 97 tracker. Can someone tell me where to find the correct timing steps. I have read a couple of the forms here and still cant figure it out. Do I use the jump wire first to set the timing back to 0? I should go buy the manual but I broke my leg the other day and confind to the house for a few days.
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If you set the jumper wire it will hard-set your timing to 8 degrees. I run mine 2 degrees advanced on top of that, seems to work better for my motor on the 96. Before there was a bit of lag about 2700 RPM's.
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If you set the jumper wire it will hard-set your timing to 8 degrees. I run mine 2 degrees advanced on top of that, seems to work better for my motor on the 96. Before there was a bit of lag about 2700 RPM's.
The jumper wire does not hard set the timing to 8*. What it does is disable to electronic timing advance, so you can set the base timing to 8*, or 5*, or whatever degrees you want it set at.
Sean, look at the sticker under the hood. It tells you which pins in the plug to short to lock the timing, so you can check it.
Ah hell, I might as well just tell you.
With the tab up on the connector, the pins are labeled like this....
123
456
You short pins 4 & 5 together and that disables the electronic advance on the timing.
If you look at that underhood sticker, it should also tell you what the timing should be set at. It probably says 5*.
It is pretty easy to set/check the timing. Warm up engine to operating temp. Shut off engine. Short pins 4 & 5. Start engine and let it idle (should be right at 800RPM). Hook up timing light. Shoot light at crank pulley and see where the timing is set. To adjust it, loosen the distributor bolt and turn the distributor (you can do this with the engine running, just be careful of the spinning fan blade and belts). Once timing is set, tighten distributor bolt and unhook everything and remove the jumper from pins 4 & 5.
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Ok,thanks for the info, I have been told that the problems that I'm having sounds like my timing belt jumped a tooth on the timing gear. I am guessing I need to take the timing cover off and check that and the crank pully keyway. If I find that the timing belt did jump a tooth what does it take to get it lined up agian. Thank you for being patient with me,I'm new at this.
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Ok,thanks for the info, I have been told that the problems that I'm having sounds like my timing belt jumped a tooth on the timing gear. I am guessing I need to take the timing cover off and check that and the crank pully keyway. If I find that the timing belt did jump a tooth what does it take to get it lined up agian.
Line the pulleys up, put the belt on. Pretty simple.
I'd also check to make sure you aren't off a tooth on the distributor.
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thanks,I will check this out in the next couple of days and let you Know how it works out.
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The jumper wire does not hard set the timing to 8*. What it does is disable to electronic timing advance, so you can set the base timing to 8*, or 5*, or whatever degrees you want it set at.
the jumper from pins 4 & 5.
Man, I have been off my game recently. Yea, your right it is 5 degrees on the 97. The 8 degree advance is for the 8 valve engine. Your right that checking under the hood is the best path to make sure.
I do know if you have a good ODBC II scanner you can see what the computer thinks the timing should be at though. :)
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just went out and strarted my tracker and looked at the crank pully it does have a wobble to it. What do you think,crank keyway needs repaired?
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just went out and strarted my tracker and looked at the crank pully it does have a wobble to it. What do you think,crank keyway needs repaired?
The pulley could just be bent a little. I've seen it before.
If you think it might be a keyway issue, pull the pulley and timing cog off and take a look. It will be obvious, if it is.
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ok thanks, see if I can get a friend to help me out. Still not doing to well with this broken leg
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Ok, finally got around to pulling my timing cover.This is what I found. There is two marks on the cam gear exhaust and intake,the exhuast mark is lined up with the mark on the back plate and the crank gear is lined up with them. Is this correct? I also noticed that there is a washer like thing behind the crank gear that has tabs on it that look like it has wore marks in the oil pump case. Please help!!!!
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with the marks lined up like the fsm says,I pulled the plug on #1 cylinder and put a 17mm socket on the cam bolt and turned back and forth and it looks to me with piston at tdc both marks are off by one tooth. looks like both cam and crank gears need to go clockwise one tooth.
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Ok, finally got around to pulling my timing cover.This is what I found. There is two marks on the cam gear exhaust and intake,the exhuast mark is lined up with the mark on the back plate and the crank gear is lined up with them. Is this correct? I also noticed that there is a washer like thing behind the crank gear that has tabs on it that look like it has wore marks in the oil pump case. Please help!!!!
The 2 marks on the cam pulley are not for intake and exhaust. They use that pulley on multiple engines, so the "other" mark is for the other applications. The mark you need to use is the one that has the raised dot.
The "star" plate behind the crank pulley shouldn't be rubbing on the oil pump housing. Not sure what is going on there.
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with the marks lined up like the fsm says,I pulled the plug on #1 cylinder and put a 17mm socket on the cam bolt and turned back and forth and it looks to me with piston at tdc both marks are off by one tooth. looks like both cam and crank gears need to go clockwise one tooth.
If both pulleys are "off" by 1 tooth, in the same direction, then there is nothing wrong. They can't both be off by 1 tooth in the same direction, because of how the pulleys fit on the cam and crank (there is a cam pin and a crank key).
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ok thanks for clearing that up for me. I guess my next step is to take the timing belt off and remove the crank bolt and crank pully to see if the keyway is messed up
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Have you been having issue with it running right? If not, then there probably isn't anything wrong with the keyway on the crank.
Your originally asked about how to set the timing. Were you just wanting to check it? Or have you done something, or have reason to think, that the timing needs to be checked/changed?
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Yes, I have no power at low rpms. I mean no power. checked the timing with a timing light and it was at 14. Guessing the guy that owned it before me advanced it to somewhat run ok. Was hopeing the belt just jumped a tooth but i guess not.When you push on the gas peddle it is very slow to respond.I have done a complete tune up, fuel filter,plugs and wires,cap and rotor,air filter,and replaced the egr vaulve. Have done alot of research on here but still have the problem.
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Ahh, ok. A damaged keyway can cause that issue. I'd pull the crank pulley and check it.
Have you done a compression check and checked/adjusted the valves?
Are you sure the distributor rotor is put on in the proper position? Some will fit on in all 3 positions....but only 1 is correct.
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what is the best way to hold the carnk in place to get the bolt loose and tightened back up?
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what is the best way to hold the carnk in place to get the bolt loose and tightened back up?
Put the tranny in 5th gear, or Park, and set the ebrake.
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Ok thanks will be working on it tonite. Hope I find the problem. Its driving me nuts!!
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Hey skyhiranger, started investigating a little more, With the timing marks on the cam and crank lined up per fsm I pulled the distributer cap and it looks to me that the rotor is pointing at the #4 post of the cap. could my plug wires be hooked up all wrong??? Stumped!! I thought I read it should be pointed at the #1 cylinder.
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It depends on where the mark on the cam is pointing. If it is pointing up (at 12:00), then the rotor should point to #4. If it is pointing down (at 6:00), then the rotor should point to #1.
With the cam mark in either position, the crank mark will always point up (at 12:00).
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I guess I'm ok there then because the cam mark is pointing at 12:00 and rotor is pointing at #4 Still havent pulled the crank gear off yet. Trying to figure out something to hold the crank tight to remove the bolt, Park and ebrake didnt work.
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Oh yeah, I guess park wouldn't work...duh. ::)
How about pulling the inspection cover off the lower part of the bellhousing and wedging something between the teeth on the flex plate and the bellhousing, to keep the engine from turning.
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That was going to be my next move. Thanks
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Ok, crank gear is off. The key is shot. The keyway is not to bad but deffinitly needs jb weld. Looks like it not only wobbled out side to side but also back a little towards the oil pump casing. Also that star plate that is attached to the crank gear has three cracks in it. Do you know where I can get a new or used gear and key?
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I probably have some around here that I'd sell. But early tomorrow, I am headed out of town for the weekend, so it will be Monday before I can check.
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Ok thanks. Let me know if you find some. I will keep looking in the mean time.
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Got all the parts to start putting the timing gear back on. I jb welded the keyway in the crankshaft 2days ago and I'm ready to move on. My question is I read that I should clean the threads in the crank with a 12x1.25 tap. juat want to make sure the threads in all year modles are the same. Any help would be appreciated
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AFAIK, all the crank threads are the same. Unless the threads appear/are damaged, I wouldn't worry about running a tap in the crank. I'd just spray some brake cleaner in the hole and blow it out with compressed air and loctite and torque (94 ft.lbs) the bolt, when you put it in.
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Ok thanks for all your help so far. It does look like there has been red loctite in the crank before. Thought it might be a good Ideal to run a tap through it. The new timing gear seems to be a little sloppy on the crank,so I thought I would put a thin layer of jb on the shaft when Im ready to put it together. I know I would have to use heat to get it apart agian,hopeing I dont have to take it apart.
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I just want to thank all that helped me with my tracker. To name a few skyhiranger drone637 bentparts Im up and running agian thanks to you guys. Love this forum!!! ;D
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I just want to thank all that helped me with my tracker. To name a few skyhiranger drone637 bentparts Im up and running agian thanks to you guys. Love this forum!!! ;D
You're welcome. Glad you finally got it up and going.