Have you been having issue with it running right?  If not, then there probably isn't anything wrong with the keyway on the crank.
Your originally asked about how to set the timing.  Were you just wanting to check it?  Or have you done something, or have reason to think, that the timing needs to be checked/changed?

Yes, I have no power at low rpms. I mean no power. checked the timing with a timing light and it was at 14. Guessing the guy that owned it before me advanced it to somewhat run ok. Was hopeing the belt just jumped a tooth but i guess not.When you push on the gas peddle it is very slow to respond.I have done a complete tune up, fuel filter,plugs and wires,cap and rotor,air filter,and replaced the egr vaulve. Have done alot of research on here but still have the problem.

Ahh, ok.  A damaged keyway can cause that issue.  I'd pull the crank pulley and check it.
Have you done a compression check and checked/adjusted the valves?
Are you sure the distributor rotor is put on in the proper position?  Some will fit on in all 3 positions....but only 1 is correct.

what is the best way to hold the carnk in place to get the bolt loose and tightened back up?

what is the best way to hold the carnk in place to get the bolt loose and tightened back up?

Put the tranny in 5th gear, or Park, and set the ebrake.

Ok thanks will be working on it tonite. Hope I find the problem. Its driving me nuts!!

Hey skyhiranger, started investigating a little more, With the timing marks on the cam and crank lined up per fsm I pulled the distributer cap and it looks to me that the rotor is pointing at the #4 post of the cap. could my plug wires be hooked up all wrong??? Stumped!! I thought I read it should be pointed at the #1 cylinder.

It depends on where the mark on the cam is pointing.  If it is pointing up (at 12:00), then the rotor should point to #4.  If it is pointing down (at 6:00), then the rotor should point to #1.
With the cam mark in either position, the crank mark will always point up (at 12:00).

I guess I'm ok there then because the cam mark is pointing at 12:00 and rotor is pointing at #4  Still havent pulled the crank gear off yet. Trying to figure out something to hold the crank tight to remove the bolt, Park and ebrake didnt work.

Oh yeah, I guess park wouldn't work...duh.
How about pulling the inspection cover off the lower part of the bellhousing and wedging something between the teeth on the flex plate and the bellhousing, to keep the engine from turning.

That was going to be my next move. Thanks

Ok, crank gear is off. The key is shot. The keyway is not to bad but deffinitly needs jb weld. Looks like it not only wobbled out side to side but also back a little towards the oil pump casing. Also that star plate that is attached to the crank gear has three cracks in it. Do you know where I can get a new or used gear and key?

I probably have some around here that I'd sell.  But early tomorrow, I am headed out of town for the weekend, so it will be Monday before I can check.

Ok thanks. Let me know if you find some. I will keep looking in the mean time.

Got all the parts to start putting the timing gear back on. I jb welded the keyway in the crankshaft 2days ago and I'm ready to move on. My question is I read that I should clean the threads in the crank with a 12x1.25 tap. juat want to make sure the threads in all year modles are the same. Any help would be appreciated