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51

Technical Discussion - Performance / Modify / 04 Grand Vit- where is the TCM located? I want to modify the TPS input

« Last post by iadr on June 17, 2025, 09:32:31 AM »

2004 Grand Vitara, 2.5 V6.  Canadian Spec (should be same as US?).

The 4sp Auto is set to kick down way way too often.   I would rather it didn't kick down except in extreme circumstances.

I would like to find my TCM so that I can try a plan I have.  Where is my TCM located? Bonus if you can tell me colour codes at the plug.

My plan is to run a rheostat in the sensor feed coming from the throttle position sensor to the TCM, so it thinks it's at 40-50% throttle when it's at 75-80% throttle, so as to eliminate a number of kick down actions. This would be done by running that signal to ground via a resistor.
 If that works great, if not then I'll run a junkyard TPS, run 12V to it and let it send out a fixed 40% TPS signal.

My one concern is the transmission lowers internal (band) pressures drop at lower throttle positions, like some of the old mechanical systems did for a softer shift feel.  If so, then I may end up with more torque at a lower internal pressure, causing slippage.

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Technical Discussion - Performance / Modify / Re: Any easy short cut to allowing the fog light circuit to stay on w/hi beam?

« Last post by iadr on June 17, 2025, 09:24:13 AM »

Hoped for something "known" like this trick for some Fords  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-94SZUEkdw:

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Technical Discussion - Performance / Modify / Any easy short cut to allowing the fog light circuit to stay on w/hi beam?

« Last post by iadr on June 17, 2025, 09:23:03 AM »

2004 Grand Vitara, 2.5 V6.  Canadian Spec (should be same as US?). 2 lighting issues:

So I have replaced my OEM fog lights with spot lights used as ditch lights (angled slightly right, drivers more than the other, remote part of Canada, we often do this...)

I'd really like to not cut up my harness and do a lot more work than I have to.  Is there someone who understands the circuit? I'm thinking of a diode and relay tagged into power and triggered by the high beam but that seems complex.

-
2nd concern

  Are these vehicles like a lot of Asian vehicles and switch the ground to turn the headlights on and off? I can go check but I last looked at this around New years and it's June and I want to get this done. I'm looking to do the upgrade to powering the headlights off the alternator output post.  I've tried two brands of LED light and both sucked, now have name brand 90/130W halogen filament and still lack of light cast-distance is scary bad. Hoping to re-power the high watt filament type and then use the ditch lights a lot, maybe a light bar if I keep the vehicle through the winter.

54

Technical Discussion - Beginner / Repair / Re: Swap 96 body to 91 frame ?

« Last post by ebewley on June 11, 2025, 08:30:56 PM »

Physically very possible with minimal differences. However, I'd look for a replacement engine or service the one that is in the 'donor' instead. Projects like body swaps can tend to end up with two dead vehicle projects setting and waiting for attention vs. having fun in one rig and selling the other to help offset the cost. YMMV - Eric

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Technical Discussion - Performance / Modify / Re: ignition timing after removing vacume line?

« Last post by ebewley on June 11, 2025, 08:24:18 PM »

Howdy Ted! Good to see you on the forum! Yeah, there is no vacuum advance port on the Harley CV carb and where it was hooked to (intake manifold) it would act backwards meaning full vacuum advance at idle (when the throttle plates are closed = high vacuum) and then go away when you apply throttle (open plate less or no vacuum) So, all your getting is mechanical advance from the distributor itself. This can be adjusted modified to get a new advance curve all mechanical by a distributor servicing shop. You can let them know where you want to set initial (probably somewhere around 10 or 12 degrees and then you want final to be somewhere around 32 - ish degrees and then how quickly you want to get there 2000 rpm or 3000 or    This would make the motorcycle carb work better with the automotive engine. Hope that helps and good to hear the front axle housing repair went smoothly!  -Eric

example of this service  https://www.everyday-performance.com/distributors.htm  (not affiliated)

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Technical Discussion - Beginner / Repair / WTB 1.6 16 valve engine in good shape

« Last post by 91 ragtop on June 10, 2025, 09:19:04 AM »

Does anybody have a good 16 valve Tracker or Sidekick engine in the northwest part of the country ? Somewhere close to Montana would be great.

Ken..............

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Technical Discussion - Beginner / Repair / Re: Swap 96 body to 91 frame ?

« Last post by fordem on June 09, 2025, 06:23:16 PM »

Be aware that both body & frame bear the VIN, there may be legal ramifications to a body/frame swap - in my corner of the world, this cannot be legally done.

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Technical Discussion - Beginner / Repair / Swap 96 body to 91 frame ?

« Last post by 91 ragtop on June 09, 2025, 02:48:27 PM »

I've got a  91 2 Dr  convertible Sidekick that's real rusty and dented that I would like to put a 96 Tracker body onto. The Tracker has minimal rust and is real straight  with 100,000 less miles on it. It also has the removable hardtop option. If I can find a 16 valve engine I will just fix the 96. I'm guessing that the body mounts are the same but going from a 8 valve throttle body engine to a fuel injected 16 valve chassis is going to cause some wiring problem especially with the different dashes. Does anyone have any advice on this project ?

Ken.                 

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Technical Discussion - Performance / Modify / Re: ignition timing after removing vacume line?

« Last post by the blackdog on May 29, 2025, 09:26:59 AM »

"What does it help with?"
  It seems to give better throttle responce at mid range.
 On my test hill (paved but steep and long) it can carry 2ND gear all the way up. That has been a way for me to tell if new equipment is "snake oil" or actually produces more torque. 
 Eric said that the manifold hook up for the vac hose didn't work well but there is no place on the Harley CV carb to attach to. Everything is still there so I can attach back to the manifold as a test.
 I do run premium. Have not done MPG yet, that is almost as important as power to me. If I carry more gas to extend range It's more weight, thus giving away some of the Samurai's superpower.
 The mission of the sammi is to get me from my driveway to explore places that I wouldn't take my AWD Astro van, so even if I use the vac adv sometimes and disconect it for other tasks (freeway/crawling) that's ok.
 Just where to set the base timing for each if anybody has done things this way.

This is my first Suzuki but back in the 1980's I had VWs (bug, van and ghia) and the mech only lightning whirlers always worked best. 
 
   

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Technical Discussion - Performance / Modify / Re: ignition timing after removing vacume line?

« Last post by fordem on May 29, 2025, 08:16:25 AM »

Now I'm curious - can you say what disconnecting the vacuum advance was supposed to help with?

Vacuum advance is primarily an engine efficiency function, advancing the ignition timing to allow for "more complete" combustion is lean mixture, part throttle scenarios such as highway cruise.  You can disable it and run more base timing, how much more base timing will depend on what octane fuel you're willing to run, and yes, pre-ignition or pinking/pinging will be the result of over advancing the timing.

I had the vacuum can fail on a carbed Swift (same G13 as the Samurai but a different carb) and rather than replace the can, we locked out the vacuum advance and bumped up the base timing, back then we only had one octane available, premium, so the common practice was to bump the timing to make the best of what we had to pay for - it was too long ago (and too many vehicles) for me to remember clearly, but I remember running as much as 18 degrees of base timing, just not what vehicle it was