does anyone have a good rear wheel anti lock sensor they can get me an resistance reading from? (across the pins)

Will the appropriate resistor installed in the sensor wire turn the brake light off??

Has anyone done this?  I don't have a good sensor to take a reading from... and the new 3rd I installed isn't RWAL equipped, so I have a wire hanging, and a brake light on the dash..

I was just wondering if I put the correct resistance in line if I could fake the puter out... or does it have to be an alternating resistance? as when the sensor ring passes over the sensor... I wouldn't think so, cause the BRAKE light doesn't come on when you stop..


Thoughts??    I guess I could just disable the brake light.. but it also shows other problems, like low brake pressure and the emergency brake and such......

i'll try to remember to measure mine at work tommorow.

derek

Thanks, if it works, that will be kickbutt.....

It is likely that the computer will be checking the pulses from the rwal sensor with the vehicle speed sensor. I expect that the sensor is an open collector output (like an electronic switch to earth). For that it would have to be 3 wire, if it is 2 wire than it will be a variable reluctance (VR) sensor without any cleaning up circuitry. I doubt if a resistor will do anything but give it a try anyway so we all know for future reference.

If it's a VR sensor, which is what I suspect,
would it just monitor for sudden changes in
pulses to activate the ABS ?  Seems like it
would need a reference also.

I thought maybe it would be checking pulses too.. BUT, it doesn't make the BRAKE light come on when sitting still idling... no matter HOW long you sit.. so there must be some sort of way to trick the system into thinking I am sitting there idling.  I don't think I have RWAL anyway.. I mean, I don't see any system on the master cylinder that would incorporate it...  It certainly isn't ABS.... RWAL at most and it MUST be easier to fool.

It basically is a three wire I guess, if the shield is grounded. Plug it in and the light goes off, unplug it and the light comes on.... of course, once the vehicle starts moving and the workaround tells the computer I am now moving with the rear axle locked up.. I am not sure WHAT will happen.... lose all pressure to the rear brakes???  I better investigate this one a little better..


Remember, this is a 93, non ABS vehicle.. RWAL at most....   but I swear, I don't think it ever worked.. but the light didn't used to stay on.. (till I smashed the sensor, messing with the third..) NOW, I don't even have a place for a sensor....

Is there some way to disable the rear wheel anti-lock on these? couldn't be too hard to do, remove a wire off a solenoid somewhere...  and remove the brake light on the dash..

I would rather just fool the system.. I will keep you updated,  unless someone knows the answer to this.

If you look on the firewall right behind the brake pedal there is a little black box. Unplug it and the light goes out. 

If you look on the firewall right behind the brake pedal there is a little black box. Unplug it and the light goes out. 

Really??

So I've been running around for almost 3 years with this light on when it could have been turned off that easy?

Whoa. I have to try this! I'm gonna try to find the box today.

If you look on the firewall right behind the brake pedal there is a little black box. Unplug it and the light goes out. 

LOL... see.... I knew someone would know...  I will go check that out...

I finally pulled the bulb out of the cluster just 2 days ago cause i was fed up.


Now here's something else possibly affiliated with using a non-RWAL 3rd in a RWAL system...  My pedal pulses bad from the rear end.  I have had the whole thing apart numerous times as it feels like unbalanced drums or something.  I have replaced all the brakes including springs and pieces and drums, but not the wheel cylinders.  I have had the wheels balanced more times than i care to mention.  I even had the new drums re-turned just in case, but none of this did anything to help with the vibration i get from the rear end. 

I had a thought just last week that maybe the RWAL system was trying to pulse the brakes because the sensor isn't there or hooked up.  Could that make any sense?  The other thing is if you rip up on the handbrake while driving, the vibration is really strong.

I went as far as wheel bearings, new u-joints, new brake fluid, and everything i could think of to no avail.

So now that someone else has a non-RWAL 3rd in theirs, are you having any vibration problems, or just the dash light?

When I used a non RWAL third member in my truck for a while before I went SAS, I had the sensor unhooked and zip tied up in the back.

The only difference I noticed was that I could lock up my back brakes a lot easier. I didn't get any pulsating or vibration.

If you look on the firewall right behind the brake pedal there is a little black box. Unplug it and the light goes out. 

Hahaha you so very funny. You go home now! No soup for you!

 

   No vibration in mine since the swap.  As for the light, a piece of black duck tape works great!

I just got back from an extended road test with the new 5.62's with NON RWAL, in a RWAL truck..  no vibration, nothing.. every thing was quite acceptable..

Now, to sell the 5.12's  (they are on ebay.. check the garage sale)

Hey c-mike you might have a bent axle or two. I bent two in my sammie.