I would like to try the budget lift that I see posted on here. I have 1990 tracker 2 door automatic that is stock right now.
  From reading through posts of others I just wanted to be sure that everything will go smoothly. If I do the budget lift as outlined do I need to worry about the alighnment later on? Will a regular shop be able to set up the alighnment?
What about the rear shocks, since the rear end is raised 2" with the coil spacers do the old shocks work alright?
  Just curious as I'm new to this, why did they choose jeep coil spacers? is just because they are readily available?
Thanks
Jim

Alignment: Any change to the height of the front springs via spacers, springs, etc., while retaining stock control arms, does effect the alignment. The higher you go the more it affects the camber, toe-in etc. It is always recommended after the installation of any lift  that the front end have a camber adjustment and be realigned. Usually the alignment is able to be set by any shop. You can set it by eye to get you in the ballpark while doing the lift. Some have taken a die grinder and made the hole in the strut oval to compensate for the lift. Camber bolts are also available for about $15-20 bucks that can correct camber issues.

Shocks: If you keep your OEM shocks and off-road your rig you will top out the shocks alot and eventually ruin them. A slightly longer shock will prevent this. A Monroe 37080 ('95 Ford E150 rear shock) is a couple inches longer extended and has the same mounts. Be carefull of going with too long of shocks as too much travel will damage the rear axles upper locating arm's ball joint.

Jeep coil spacers can be used but need modification. Some members on this board (ie. Digger) make spacers to fit your Tracker. Another option is aftermarket springs (ie. Boondox, OME, BDS) although that will mean more $.

Thanks Shredder, I was wondering if the alignment shops would carry the necessary camber bolts or if that is a specialty item that I need to supply them with?
  I will have to price out longer springs and compare prices. What are Diggers coil spacers worth?
  That's good to know about the shocks, I take it the front struts are ok because of flipping the bracket, is this correct?
  How does the budget lift work, is it worthwhile for offroading or should I just go with the longer springs and shocks in the rear? How do I balance this on the front of the vehicle or do I stay with the strut bracket flip and coil spacers?
Thanks
Jim

Check with Digger on his price. It might be in a post or you can send him a PM.

The alignent shop might not stock them but would get them from a NAPA or something. If you had some ahead of time you could always retun them if they don't need them. I got mine from Boondox.

Your struts will be ok with the flipped mount if you don't try to go too high. I went with the 3" lifting springs on my wifes Kick so I needed the strut spacers from Boondox too.

Several guys run with the "budget lift" but I don't know how much off-roading they do. Maybe one of them will chime in on this. I have always tried to use springs to obtain the ride height I wanted because I guess I see them as an active and not passive part of the lift. Of course though springs cost more than spacers. You could always start out with spacers, flipped strut mounts and those longer shocks and see how you like it. If you want more articulation, travel, etc then you can upgrade to longer springs, strut mounts, rear axle mounts, even longer shocks, and so forth. If you are doing longer springs I would do them front and rear. You are somewhat limited by CV joint angles but it is nice to have alot of flex up front too.

Beware though, this Zuki bug gets you and you start thinking centered diffs, better cv joints, duel transfer cases, 5.83 gears, SFA, 35s. It's like a drug.

Check with Digger on his price. It might be in a post or you can send him a PM.

Digger has mentioned recently that his material costs have risen to the point where he has stopped making them.  So if you do convince him to make a set he'll probably pass the higher cost on to you.  I have a Digger set that I am going to install at the Bedford Boys Fabfest on Memorial Day...
 

The alignent shop might not stock them but would get them from a NAPA or something. If you had some ahead of time you could always retun them if they don't need them. I got mine from Boondox.

You can also get them at O'Reilly's.  I discussed installing them with my local tire store and they did not seem too keen on the idea.  Liability issues seemed to be the sticking point.  Something to know about when you chat with your alignment guy.

Your struts will be ok with the flipped mount if you don't try to go too high. I went with the 3" lifting springs on my wifes Kick so I needed the strut spacers from Boondox too.

Flipping the strut mounts may not be necessary if you purchase a set of BDS strut extensions.  I have a printout picture (but no URL link - sorry) of a set from either this site or Zuwharrie.com.  The BDS part number is BDSFSE3.  I have yet to try buying them, but I understand that they are available from any BDS dealer for under 50 bucks a set.  Either way, you need to lower the top end of the strut to regain proper downward travel.
 

Beware though, this Zuki bug gets you and you start thinking centered diffs, better cv joints, duel transfer cases, 5.83 gears, SFA, 35s. It's like a drug.

Danged Straight!  And I own a Samurai too!

You can also get them at O'Reilly's.  I discussed installing them with my local tire store and they did not seem too keen on the idea.  Liability issues seemed to be the sticking point.  Something to know about when you chat with your alignment guy.

The ones I used are made by Northstar and they are a "new" design that maintains full strength. Here is their statement.

"The fast and easy alternative to adjust camber on vehicles utilizing standard 2 bolt (upper and lower) strutto-knuckle mounting bolt design. This unique design incorporates an offset internal sleeve working in conjunction with a full-size/high-strength O.E. diameter bolt (with matching internal offset) which allows camber to be increased or decreased by a simple turn of the bolt. Magna Cam allows the technician to accurately adjust camber with weight of vehicle on front wheels - no guessing as with other products that require the vehicle to be suspended while adustment is made."

personally i would just  give sky manufacturing  http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/
a call at 541-736-3743. he is selling a budget lift. Here is a picture.  He is also selling them on Ebay so you can try your luck there too.

sorry somebody posted while I was posting and the picture was lost.  Make sure you tell Sky ZUKIWORLD sent you!

   I've got the "budget lift" on my '92 auto Kick.  I got my coil spacers from Sky.  Flipped the strut mount up front and shocks for a '91 Crown Victoria on the rear.  I got an alignment after the install at my local midas shop.  I brought in camber bolts, and they made no objection to using them.  But I didn't need them.  I'm only running 235 tires so maybe its worse if you've go larger tires.  I drive it both on and off road, but off road mostly.  I think the ride is better on the street and its definitely an improvement offroad over stock.  Considering what you get for the money and the ease of install, I'd recommend this route to anyone.  But, were I to come across a set of cheap springs, I think I'd give em a try. 

Hello,
 
I got 2" Sky body lift and 1.5" spacers. with the spacers I have had it up trails that atv's have a hard time getting up.That's with 30x9.50  now I'm going with 31x11.50 Swampers with the 2" body lift.And added a locker, 8000lb winch, skid plates,custom bumpers,rock sliders...everything....also this is the second time I've owned this tracker...

Later Tom K.

Coil spacers and body lifts add the needed clearance for larger tires, which gives you better ground clearance and depending on the tires you choose, better traction off road. Neither one affects the ride very much from stock because you're still using the factory springs.

I personally wouldn't recomend putting spacers much taller than 1.5" up front without doing something to lower the front diff, otherwise the cv shafts can get stressed out from trying to operate at extreme angles. Plus, because of the lever-fulcrum effect of the front independent suspension, 1.5" spacers provide roughly 2-1/4" of lift up front.(when you add the spacers, this pushes the springs down 1.5", but the springs are only a little more than 1/2 way between the arm's pivot and the knuckle end where the tire is mounted, therefore the tire gets pushed down further than the spring). I have offroaded quite a bit with spacers and they work great. My silver Tracker in my avatar pic was running a 2" body lift and 1-1/2" spacers, with 31" swampers, and it worked very well off road. My current trail rig, the Green Goblin, is running a 4" body lift, 1-1/2" front spacers with OME Struts, 2" Calmini rear springs and '91 Crown Vic shocks. A little trimming and it fits 33" Swampers very nicely. I took the swaybar off both trucks and never missed it. They both ride just fine on the road, too.

Wildgoody on here was making spacers after I quit. His provided a little more rear lift than mine since he went with 2" rear spacers(I think), so the lift was more even...

The budget lifts are well worthwhile, just make sure if you tackle your own body lift that the body is well supported and use thick wall steel and whatever you do, don't weld the body lift blocks top and bottom... Ask me how I know this... (previous owner, not me...)