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How to replace your stock shocks? Step by step breakdown. <-------------------

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Offline Carnage

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Well, did another check.  (didnt turn up much so I'll post it)
(im not a mechanic, nor do I have a garage so please bear with me)


My shocks are still stock and I would really like to replace them as I have high miles.
Im not interested in raising the height and the most Id like to drop it would be 1"
(so basically keeping to stock form, just improving on the product)


I just want the ride to improve.
I looked at the rears and it seems like a new one would just bolt on.
(front?)
But can anyone shed some light into this?
(is there anything <important> I should know, is it easy/hard, etc?)



What type of shocks do I need?
(whats a good price, where to get them?)

What is the process involved when replacing them?
(equipment involved, steps, etc)


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« Last Edit: April 27, 2006, 06:10:37 PM by Gen-Erix »

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Offline wildgoody

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remove old shocks, install new ones  ;D
Real Trucks Are Built, Not Bought,
And Chrome Don't Get Ya Home.  

An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject.

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Offline Carnage

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remove old shocks, install new ones  ;D

well... arent you the valedictorian

 8)

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Offline cj

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remove old shocks, install new ones  ;D

That's how I'd do it too  ;D

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Offline Carnage

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ok

but seriously

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Offline wildgoody

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I think it's a 14mm top nut and a 17mm bottom bolt

You might need a pair of vice grips to break the nut
on the top stud loose, you living in the land of rusting
cars and all, and a socket and ratchet and a wrench
for the bottom bolt.

The shocks come with bolts and nuts, some might not
tho so don't trash your hardware until you get the new
shocks so you know what if anything you can't beat on

Real Trucks Are Built, Not Bought,
And Chrome Don't Get Ya Home.  

An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject.

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Offline Carnage

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I think it's a 14mm top nut and a 17mm bottom bolt

You might need a pair of vice grips to break the nut
on the top stud loose, you living in the land of rusting
cars and all, and a socket and ratchet and a wrench
for the bottom bolt.

The shocks come with bolts and nuts, some might not
tho so don't trash your hardware until you get the new
shocks so you know what if anything you can't beat on


thanks

so its just a "take off/put on" deal eh

can anyone recommend parts?

(im not lifting it)

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Offline wildgoody

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Ya, pretty much the same as
my first post to this thread.

That's why I posted it  ;)
Real Trucks Are Built, Not Bought,
And Chrome Don't Get Ya Home.  

An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject.

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Offline purpletracker

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it's clean  under there ..you shouldn't have any problem with seized bolt

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Offline Carnage

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Ya, pretty much the same as
my first post to this thread.

That's why I posted it  ;)


I was waiting for the part recommendation
since you guys are bad ass like that
 ;)

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Offline TysonS

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is that a sway bar in the rear?? :o :o :o
2 Dr. 91'  8v Sidekick| 3" Body Lift | 4" Gas Tank Lift | 3.5" Suspension Lift | Snorkel | Custom Bumpers | Sliders | 31" LTB's | Detroit | 4.24 Tcase | TT front locker soon

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Offline Carnage

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dont let the pic fool you
its just a "generix" pic I found on the net

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Offline derekj

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monroe make a few good shocks - the middle of the line ones should do you just fine.

derek
91 Sidekick jx
2" BDS supension lift
2" BDS body lift
1" Coil spacers
32" TSL's and some other stuff I did And now with a Lockrite!  www.cardomain.com/memberpage/783382

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Offline Rhinoman

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The rear shocks have a 8mm 'Flat' in the thread, you put a spanner on this to prevent the rod from turning when you are trying to undo the 14mm nut. Give the nut a good soaking with penetrating oil a day or more before and use a good quality spanner. On my year old car the flat rounded off and the vice grips wouldn't hold it either. I had to cut the top mount off. If the shocks don't come with new hardware then I would buy it before starting the job.
Front struts aren't too difficult either. Plenty of penetrating oil on the big nut on the top mount (17mm?).
Support the front of the car, place a jack under the wishbone. Be aware that the hub will flop about without the strut so having another support ready is a good idea. Remove the two lower mounting bolts and then remove the three bolts holding the stut assembly to the strut tower. I found removing the top mount easiest when I clamped the mount in a vice (It has a hex shaped flange) and then used a socket on the top nut.
Once you've got it apart then you'll know how to put it back together again.
Can't give you any advice on brands but there are adjustable rear shocks about and Koni make adjustable inserts for the stock front struts (early models only?).

2000 Vitara 1.6, 3+3 Lift, 33"MTs, 5:83s, LWB brakes, Winch, Snorkel, Safari Rack
1986 SJ413K PickUp, 1.6L conversion.

OBD1 - Full diagnostics on a PC/Laptop: http://www.rhinopower.org

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Offline Digger

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Just walk into your favorite Auto Parts store, go up to the counter person and ask for rear shocks for whatever year Tracker yours is. He'll give you probably give you a couple different choices from standard up through expensive gas charged units. Stick with name brand stuff that you've heard of and you really can't go wrong...
Had a cool sig pic till I changed the text... sigh...
90 Tracker: "Silver", 2" BL, 1-1/2" Coil Spacers, Strut mount flip, Calmini Header, Winch, 31" Swamper radials, Sold.
98 Suzuki X-90: Calmini 2" Sus, 1-1/4" whl spcrs, 2" Exhaust, Cobra Safari Bar, Neon, Sold.
96 Suzuki X-90: Mostly stock daily driver(for now)