My Zuk (1994 SJ413) is my daily driver, but I do take her for a bit of rough stuff as often as possible. I'm looking into doing a 'home grown' coil spring conversion with about a 1.5" lift.
Tha axle will require some form of lateral stabilization: a Panhard bar is the simplest. Because the Sammy is quite narrow (and the Panhard will thus be quite short) I want to know how much it will impact on road handling. Anyone got experiance with this sort of setup?

I'm considdering a 'Watts drive' (look it up on Wikipedia) instead of the Panhard. This should theoretically give better handling, but is a lot more technical to set up.

Watts Drive, hmmm Electric motor 

Provide a link to your watts drive Wikipedia says

Wikipedia does not have an article with this exact name.
Please search for Watts drive in Wikipedia to check for
alternative titles or spellings.

Yaa I couldn't find it either but I think 3-link, control with panhard woulld be the best!

My Zuk (1994 SJ413) is my daily driver, but I do take her for a bit of rough stuff as often as possible. I'm looking into doing a 'home grown' coil spring conversion with about a 1.5" lift.
Tha axle will require some form of lateral stabilization: a Panhard bar is the simplest. Because the Sammy is quite narrow (and the Panhard will thus be quite short) I want to know how much it will impact on road handling. Anyone got experiance with this sort of setup?

I'm considdering a 'Watts drive' (look it up on Wikipedia) instead of the Panhard. This should theoretically give better handling, but is a lot more technical to set up.

I think you're thinking "Watts Link". It is an idea of three links for the lateral stabilization. One link in the middle center mounted and parrallel to the frame rails and then two links that attach from the frame to that link. The center link then pivots in a circle as the axle moves up and down.

Here's a commercially available DIY version with a video.

http://www.totallypolished.com/

I think the problem in using this system would be in finding enough room to mount components. Especially up front on a Samurai. If you mount the 'crank' in the same fasion they did (the totally polished dudes), the drag link and tie rod may interfere. If you mount it on top of the axle, it'll smash the oil pan. It may be possible in the rear but you are going to get close to the gas tank, real close.
Good Luck, -Eric

Watts linkage - Yeah go for it if you REALLY like bump steer up front:-\ as Eric pointed out, there is not a lot of room and secondly this set-up works best on road  / circuit vehicles with little articulation in the rear only.

Front - Panhard rod mounted so that the rod follows EXACTLY the same arc as your drag link. This way you will have eliminated bump steer ( you know - when one wheel hits a reasonable bump and your steering wheel tries to tear your wrist off ). Also try and keep the panhard rod and drag link as close to horizontal as possible ( usually involves some form of high steer kit on big lifts ).

REAR: Panhard rod OR "V" bar for lateral location.

FRONT: Panhard rod as mentioned - unless you plan on running hyro steering

ZeusZuki

 

Sorry. I must have had a 'brain fart' .... I don't know where I got Watts 'drive' from. I definitely meant link.
I take it from the replies that no-one thinks that there will be much of a handling problem with using the Panhard setup. I'm glad because this is definitely the easiest way to do it.
Thanks

Sometimes simple geometery is the best...

a panhard is really the only way to do it if you use linkage steering. Like said above the panhard and draglink need to be parrallel, same length and as close to horiz. as possible to eliminate bump steer.

Personally for 1.5" of lift why?