Yeah, my ball joint stud and knuckle just ARE NOT seperating.  I now realize that the control arm and ball joint are one peice and you have to replace the whole friggin' thing when the ball joint goes bad.  Seeing as how I'm hammering on this f$%ker with a 3-lb sledge and it's not budging...does anyone make a replacement lower a-arm that has a removeable ball joint?

If not...what's a new lower a-arm from Suzuki/Chevy set a guy back?

With out a pic, my guess would be.
the ball joint is riveted on. (some chevys have done this)
Drill out the rivets (if a ball joint can be bought by itself)
replace with good (grade 5 or better) bolts.
That is my guess.
Check with local parts stores and just ask for a ball joint for the Kick.
See what they  come up with.

Calmni if you want to spend the $$$. The later Kick's also have the balljoint as part of the arm.

On GV's, Vits (North American 98+), and XL7's it appears to be one peice cast, no rivets or bolts.  Guess you have to replace the whole unit.  F$%king wonderful.

Are you sure it's not threaded?

What's not threaded?

The ball joint stud is threaded but the ball joint itself is integrated into the control arm.

I'm seeing about $75 each from the local junkyard, god knows what from the local Chevy dealer, and $160 on Ebay but it wouldn't be here for at least a week.

Yes, I noticed that Calmini's control arm has a replaceable ball joint like the earlier TrackKick's.  Do you have the jack underneath the actual pin of the ball joint and you still can't get it off?  When I had the jack anywhere else on the contrl arm I just couldn't get the force right to knock it loose.

Yep, had a hydraulic bottle jack directly on the stud, just like your instructions.  Beating the snot out of the top of the knuckle with a 3-lb sledge and nothing.

AJMBLAZER, I'm not sure why you would want to remove the ball joint from the arm...
What I did was remove the steering link from the knuckle, loosen the CV, brake calipers etc so there is nothing impeding the arm from moving down. The knuckle stays on the arm.
I might have said something stupid, but I think you should take a different approach. I did and it worked .

Eh, I was hoping there was a more conventional seperate balljoint and a-arm design out there so I wouldn't have to replace the whole arm more than once.

I dunno man, I can't get the arm down far enough with the knuckle and cv-joint still attached to even get the coil spring loose, let alone jam a 1.5" coil spacer in above it.  That "tower" that the bump stop sits on is half way down the coil, I think I need to do like the others have said and almost drop the a-arm vertically down to get that kinda clearance.  I don't think the cv-joint would like that much deflection.

Moot point for now, I've got it almost back together, just looking up some torque specs now.

I just responded in the other post