The way I read it, you prise the door trim away from the door frame, starting at the bottom and working up the sides - just like any other car - the panel will be fastened on by trim fasteners.  Then I expect you lift the panel slightly upwards and it detaches from the door frame at the top. 

However, the inside handle and power window wire will still be holding the panel to the door.  You undo the wire at a connector, and then rotate the panel as described to allow the handle to pass through the hole in the panel.

I hope that's correct 

that is correct! i hawe triple checked it

must get some extra trim fasteners first

I didn't need extra fasteners, the door thinger popped right back in and I just reinstalled the door handle and the screw in the other dinger

maybe i just remove both and wait with the reistalling on the right side if i get short on fasteners.

right now, im just prayin that the speakers isn't too deep.

bought a set of blaupunkt for the front and sony's for the rear.
the sony's is approx. 2" deep, how deep is the OEM speakers in the roof?

maybe i just remove both and wait with the reistalling on the right side if i get short on fasteners.

right now, im just prayin that the speakers isn't too deep.

bought a set of blaupunkt for the front and sony's for the rear.
the sony's is approx. 2" deep, how deep is the OEM speakers in the roof?

I don't think depth is much of an issue unless your new speakers are an ungodly size as far as depth. there is tons of room in the front speaker spots if I remember right and there is a pretty decent ammount of space in the back for depth. if they were too deep in the back for some reason you could make spacers for them out of high density particle board that they make speaker cabinets out of. would probably sound better too. anyways, don't worry too much. I don't think I've seen a 6.5 inch speaker that looked like it wouldn't fit front or rear of a 2nd gen track/vit

last week, i installed the new speakers. my best friend helped me, well..

he did most of the work, he has installed more stereos than me.

and i like PICTURES , here they are:

it was easy to remove the panels, and i did not break a single fastener

speakers did not fit?

had to cut some plastic, also cut where i draw the red line


i think the front speakers are nasty, compared to the OEM stuff


well... at least it looks good when the door trim is off


had to trim the inside of doorpanel's


this is all you can see of the blaupunkt speakers, but you can hear them well


Qote: THIS MIGHT WORK.....
and he said that after cutting half the hole...


bigger hole...
forgot to take picture of the sony's in the rear, they don't look cool.
but they sound great!


even got this s*it back on and we did not break it
45W is better than 8!

thank you guy's for all the useful information!

a job well done!

a friend of mine asked if i wanted a 10" woofer and amplifier, i'm not liiking forward to it

but when an other friend of mine is an ex-hardcore car-stereo builder, it might get easyer

why do i need to pull a thick cable from the battery? it sure is easier to plug a wire to the 12volt plug in the rear?

i'm a stereo noob.....

sub amps draw allot of power, a small wire will probably start a fire due to too much resistance. I installed my sub, it's not that bad

sub amps draw allot of power, a small wire will probably start a fire due to too much resistance.

exactly what my friend told me.

now i just got to get som fat cables

go to a good stereo shop and they should have wiring kits for sub amps. you'd get different gauge wire depending on the wattage your amp has. for the inline fuse on the big wire you can zip tie the casing so something under the hood, works well, should come with a water proof fuse case. good luck