whats better? all i know is axel gears are way cheaper

What were the prices you found on axle gears??

the axel gears are 200 at rocky road!!! are axel gears any good tho the ones i found were 5:38

ya but you still have to get axle gears installed which typically means a diff rebuild at the same time as the pinion bearings and crush sleeves should be replaced.

tcase gears can be done by you on your bench at home.

i think it comes with all the things you just said

A second advantage to the transfer case gears is you get the large drop in low range as well as the modified percentage in high, where with axel gears you only get the percentage drop.

would it still make me faster on the highway cause i have to drive everyday?

An advantage of dif gears is the fact that the gearing is lowered near the output of the power transmission system.  This reduces the stress on drivetrain components "upstream" from the differentials (ie yokes, t-case, transmission..)

You can do dif gears pretty cheap if you are willing to shop around (junkyards, eBay, etc.) and DIY the installation.

Then again, you can buy a used tcase pretty cheap, get a reasonably-priced  gearset/rebuild kit and DIY it.  FWIW, I am discovering that the Differential Change project I am in the middle of is probably a lot harder in terms of the learning curve than a t-case regear... 

Would t-case gears be a better option than 5.83's?  What is the modified percentage in the high range? What is the price of t-case gears?

T-Case gears are available in a couple of flavors.

4.16:1 gears - 12% in high range, for 31" tires
5.8:1 gears - 18.2% in high range, for 32" tires
6:1 gears - 24% in high range, for 33" tires
The 6.5 and 8:1 kits both claim to have the same high range as the 6:1

I think there is a 4.89 kit out there as well, no idea about the high range on it.

As Ack said, you reduce the amount of torque on the rest of the system by lowering your gears.  Once you put the bulletproof transfer case mounts in, most people seem to break CV shafts and axels before driveshafts and u-joints, so I prefer the transfer case kits.  Plus they are a lot easier to install then new diffs.

Then again, I'm also running 5.12 tracker gears behind my 6.5 kit.  But I just bought the pumpkins with the gears already in them.

Brent at Trail Tough said it best:
http://php.trailtough.com/viewtopic.php?t=3
While doing transfer case gears is probably the biggest bang for the buck and a quick-fix, it is definitely a lousy way to try and create a reliable, trouble-free drivetrain. So think about this for a minute...you put on larger tires, so your pinion now becomes TWICE as hard to turn putting TWICE as much stress on the u-joints, transfer case mounts and the transfer case itself, as well as the brackets on the side of the frame that holds the transfer case in place. It leads to problem chasing such as having to use unnecessary large and heavy driveshafts, having the bolts pull out of the transfer case on the long arm side, having the mounting boss break off of the transfer case or having the short arm side bracket start to tear off of the frame rail. It is because you have given your transfer case up to 3 times as much power by putting in lower gears and now the transfer case wants to do flip-flops in its mount. Many people consider only the POWER issue of this equation as opposed to considering the STRESS LOADING situation as well. You need to change the ring and pinion gears also - relative to your tire size - which will make the driveshaft easy to turn again, taking all of the strain off of these parts - just like it was made from the factory when the smaller tires were on it. It is a mistake to do all of your gear reduction at one point. Especially that far up the mechanical chain. Do yourself a favor....reduce the ratio at the ring and pinions relative to the size tire you want to run, then select the transfer case gears that will best meet your 4-wheeling needs. By going this route, you will have a well thought out and trouble-free drivetrain, working well within the parameters of strain that the parts can and will reliably handle.

I agree if your planning on driving this alot on road like I do.  then your going to want axle gears.   With my 4.62's  and 31x10.5s I get a 20% reduction in high, and low..  and it brings the driving with 31's back to stock level, and less stress on the drivetrain.    Of course if u do more offroad then your could go T-case for the lower reduction in low.   

i think it comes with all the things you just said

From RRO's website; the ring/pinion gears are $200.  Install kit is $100 (you have to use 1 install kit per axle).  This makes your price $300 per axle.  This means the total cost is $600 in parts, plus gear lube. 
I've done lots of ring/pinion changes, and 2 t-case gear changes.  My opinion is that the t-case gear swap can be completed by a good do-it-yourselfer with normal hand tools in a few hours.  The ring/pinion requires some special skills and tools (dial indicator, hydraulic press, in-lb torque wrench, slide hammer) to do correctly; and takes significantly more time.
There are advantages and disadvantages to both (listed earlier in this thread), but if you're looking for best bang-for-the-buck, go with some 4.16:1 gears for the tcase.  It's the cheapest and easiest way to get a great reduction in low range, and a little reduction in high range.
Trail tough has a great price on the 4.16 t-case gears with an install kit; if you decide to go with ring/pinion check lowrangeoffroad on Ebay.  They beat all of the other gear vendors I have found, including all of the zuk vendors and Randy's. 

I am running a 4.16 t-case w/ stock axles and it runs awesome. True I am still running just 215's but, it I haven't found a place around here that I can't take it and the freeway is a cakewalk. Accelerating in fifth gear going uphill is a breeze.

i learned a easy lesson. t-case gears + stock r/p + heavy foot +lots of mud + 31" tires= explode