I have been trying to smooth out my idle. Got a tach dwell meter to check the rpms. Hit it with the timing light.  All over the place. I took out the distributor and put the original one back in. It started right up. I readjusted the weber carb to the factory fuel mixture. 1 and 1/2  to 2 turns out. I go to restart it and won't start. I can see the fuel coming in, and I even poured a little gas in to see if it would start. No luck. I checked the fsm for distributor installation.  I even reversed the rotor and reinstalled in case I was out 180. No luck. Now I wish I would have left it alone. You see what really bothered me was that I had the distributor turned ccw almost to the limit. Like it was maybe off a gear. I couldn't get it to go back to the middle and run. If I pulled it out and moved it a tooth the other way, then it was at it's adjustment limit the other direction. That's why I put the old distributor back in. Keep in mind that it started.  I turned the fuel mix in till the engine died and backed it out a couple turns. when I went to restart it, I thought I heard a pop, and no start.  I think I may have fried the ignitor. When I looked at the distributor, the ignot was loose and maybe got wacked by the square end of the distributor shaft? I tried putting the ignitor on from the first distributor (It looks like it should have a slight air gap). I set it with a feeler guage but not sure it's quite right. It seems to me that it would have to make a slight contact to spark at each point but I tried setting it to the fsm specs.

I am totally confused as anybody who reads this will probably be as well. Where do I go from here? How do you check the ignotor? Can I just remove a plug wire-- say # 1 at the plug and turn the motor over? No spark = bad ignotor?.  I already installed a new coil, cap, rotor, plugs. I see I get fuel. Is there a way to turn the motor over without a remote starter switch in case I can't get a helper?

I know. Maybe I better take it to a shop. Cash is kind of tight right now. If I could verify that I fried the ignitor, maybe I could just put in another distributor?

Turns out real simple. I couldn't figure out what the heck I did. Turns out the distributor I pulled because it wouldn't position centered enough to give room for adjusments in both directions, upon further inspection, was broke above the gear from someone trying to pound it out. Gear looked rough too.

As far as the replacement, The ignitor was loose. It started right up, but when I shut her off, The ignitor ground on the square shaft. I guess that's what the airgap is for. It blew the fuse in the cab. I adjusted the air gap and changed the fuse and it fired right up.

 Now I wonder if it would make a performance difference if you adjust the gap to the widest allowable gap vs. the smallest allowable gap. I obviously don't understand electrical a whole lot.