Any one installed manual locking hubs on there 99-05 tracker out there? 

Going to tackle mine tomorrow, what has to be removed and what should I expect?

Thanks in advance
Lowrezolution (Scott)

take off your tire, undo the 6 bolts in the middle, slide off the solid steel "hub", slide on manual hubs, put cone washers over 6 bolts, tighten bolts on new hub, replace wheel, repeat other side

good luck 

-Lance

take off your tire, undo the 6 bolts in the middle, slide off the solid steel "hub", slide on manual hubs, put cone washers over 6 bolts, tighten bolts on new hub, replace wheel, repeat other side

good luck

-Lance

Sounds very simple......too simple.....I will find a way to complicate it!!!! lol 

Thanks Lance

Any one installed manual locking hubs on there 99-05 tracker out there? 

Just out of curiosity, why are you doing that?  You will still need the pump and the electronics which control it to get drive to the front wheels (unless you swap in a pre 99 front diff).

I don't know about you guys but swapping out the hubs and shift on the fly is on my list of upgrades

George

Quote from: lowrezolution on September 11, 2006, 05:29:55 PM

Any one installed manual locking hubs on there 99-05 tracker out there? 

Just out of curiosity, why are you doing that?  You will still need the pump and the electronics which control it to get drive to the front wheels (unless you swap in a pre 99 front diff).

I've often wondered why people did this mod? I mean, I can see doing it if the original hubs no longer work, and manuals are cheaper then auto, but if the originals still work, what's the advantage of manuals?

nothing turns up front when you are in 2wd with manual hubs, less wear and less resistance, people say they get better gas mileage after this upgrade.

For me it's all about off-roading.  If you break your stuff up front just unlock the hubs and nothing is turning and limp it home. 

George

i did it because the constant spinning of the axle shafts was wearing out the oil seal on the passenger side and causing a leak

i'd eventually like to get rid of the air diff because i've already had some problems with it working sporatically

good point about the limping home, hopefully we all experience little to none of this though! 

i already had the leaky seal thing on the pass side diff on mine with only 30k on it.  hhhmmm.... i guess the warranty will take care of this for now..

lowrezolution, is this where the front end problem came from, you're hubs?  i was also wondering if you did anything for the front diff with your lift.  thanks. 

Is there a good way to test the vacuum pump to see if its working properly?   
Also, can I ditch it for a mechanical set up? 
That would seem more reliable!!

Is there a good way to test the vacuum pump to see if its working properly?   
Also, can I ditch it for a mechanical set up? 
That would seem more reliable!!

It's not a vacuum pump, it's a positive pressure pump.  You have to put a pressure gauge between the pump and the diff, using a hose with a t-piece to the gauge.  Then put ignition on, and shift the Transfer to 4WD.  Pump should run within one second and stop when pressure reaches 5.4 to 8.25 psi.  Pressure should completely release when you shift to 2WD.

Did the hubs today, what a difference on the street with them unlocked !!!!! 
The steering wheel feels 50 lbs lighter and more nimble.
First tank of fuel with them unlocked was an improvement of 40 km for the tank.

Let's see how tough they are when I get the 4wd issues fixed.

should be strong, as long as you used cone washers, ive seen the odd guy not use them, there face looks like this  when they see all the bolts broken off flush with the wheel hub.

What do you meam by "cone" washer, not sure what your talking about sirlance?