I had to make one more run before I put up the Zuki for the weekend. I managed to wedge a cedar branch up through the front suspension and it trashed the outer CV boot on the passenger side. So I've got the Chiltons manual instructions on how to pull the shaft. I also have Ack's faq on rebuilding the CV Halfshafts.

My questions are:
1) do regular auto parts stores sell the boots?
2) any specific brand to look for/avoid for the boot?
3) any special tools I will need? (I have a metric socket set, metric Allen wrenches and snap ring removers)
4) anyone know of any glaring mistakes in the instructions in the Chiltons? 
5) does anyone have any idea what posessed me to go to the left of the tree where the branch was hidden in the grass instead of to the right where I've gone the last 20 times? 

Go to Napa Auto parts. I know for sure that they carry the boots.But sometimes, it is actually cheaper to replace the whole cv with a rebuilt one than it is to buy the boots. I dont know why this is the case on some vehicles, but it is (sometimes).

autoparts stores do carry the boot & clamps, about $20 or less

you will also need the special crimper tool for the clamps

a reman driveshaft with the boots included is around $90-100

let us know how this works out, not long ago my outer cv came apart inside the boot due to suspension work, so I had to open it up and fix it.  but I don't know if that's the same way you go about replacing the boot.  maybe Ack will chime in with more info

I just put a new boot on my trackick and they sell a boot called a quick boot at advanced auto. How it works is you cut the old boot off, pack new grease,wrap new boot around the shaft, intall the screws and nuts that holds the boot together, clamp the nut with pliers, wrap large band and clamp with pliers, wrap small band and clamp with pliers.

I just put a new boot on my trackick and they sell a boot called a quick boot at advanced auto. How it works is you cut the old boot off, pack new grease,wrap new boot around the shaft, intall the screws and nuts that holds the boot together, clamp the nut with pliers, wrap large band and clamp with pliers, wrap small band and clamp with pliers.

Ahhh, the "Spit [edit: I MEAN the "Split"!]  Boot"... 

Yes it is easy to install this kind of boot but it comes with a price:  You can't expect a perfect seal if you drive offroad with these.  I installed a set on a military truck that I once owned (Pinzgauer 710M) and the results were not as good as I hoped.

IF you are willing to do some mechanical teardown work, the cheapest way to do it is to buy the regular full boot replacement/grease repacking kit and install them.  They are available at most auto parts stores.  It will require the following:

1. Removal of the CV shafts.  A Chilton (or -- shudder -- Haynes) manual will help you with this process.  It may require you to disconnect the hub assembly - especially on the right (passenger side on North American Vehicles) side.  Not hard, just annoying.

2. Follow the service manual instructions (none to speak of will come with the boots -- they fit several makes of CV shafts) OR go to Ack's FAQ (see Signature) for an article on how to tear down a CV shaft to re-grease and replace the boots.   Do a search for cv.

3. An option to the difficult-to-install metal bands requiring a special tool are Baker ties -- those long plastic cable-bundle securing devices.  The generic name escapes me right now -- many electrical supply houses call them Baker ties.  Get some extra-long ones that will wrap around the CV joint circumference.   I have a set of Baker ties on my '93 Sidekick that have been doing the job for over a year now with no problems.

Hope this helps!

do you live near me you can have the shafts out of my tracker im parting out.

do you live near me you can have the shafts out of my tracker im parting out.

I'm in the DFW area in Texas. Where are you?

Ahhh, the "Spit [edit: I MEAN the "Split"!]  Boot"... 

Yes it is easy to install this kind of boot but it comes with a price:  You can't expect a perfect seal if you drive offroad with these.  I installed a set on a military truck that I once owned (Pinzgauer 710M) and the results were not as good as I hoped.

IF you are willing to do some mechanical teardown work, the cheapest way to do it is to buy the regular full boot replacement/grease repacking kit and install them.  They are available at most auto parts stores.  It will require the following:

1. Removal of the CV shafts.  A Chilton (or -- shudder -- Haynes) manual will help you with this process.  It may require you to disconnect the hub assembly - especially on the right (passenger side on North American Vehicles) side.  Not hard, just annoying.

2. Follow the service manual instructions (none to speak of will come with the boots -- they fit several makes of CV shafts) OR go to Ack's FAQ (see Signature) for an article on how to tear down a CV shaft to re-grease and replace the boots.   Do a search for cv.

3. An option to the difficult-to-install metal bands requiring a special tool are Baker ties -- those long plastic cable-bundle securing devices.  The generic name escapes me right now -- many electrical supply houses call them Baker ties.  Get some extra-long ones that will wrap around the CV joint circumference.   I have a set of Baker ties on my '93 Sidekick that have been doing the job for over a year now with no problems.

Hope this helps!

Hey Ack,

Thanks for the info! I'll search the FAQ again and look for the one you mentioned.

I had to make one more run before I put up the Zuki for the weekend. I managed to wedge a cedar branch up through the front suspension and it trashed the outer CV boot on the passenger side. So I've got the Chiltons manual instructions on how to pull the shaft. I also have Ack's faq on rebuilding the CV Halfshafts.

My questions are:
1) do regular auto parts stores sell the boots?
2) any specific brand to look for/avoid for the boot?
3) any special tools I will need? (I have a metric socket set, metric Allen wrenches and snap ring removers)
4) anyone know of any glaring mistakes in the instructions in the Chiltons? 
5) does anyone have any idea what posessed me to go to the left of the tree where the branch was hidden in the grass instead of to the right where I've gone the last 20 times? 

ok, #4: i wouldnt trust chilton manuals, mine sucks. factory service manuals are the best.
#5: maybe you forgot which way to turn the wheel to go right? 

okc ,ok    gonna try to get track/kick motor in my sammi thursday.i got to lookin and the passenger boot near the carrier is ripped but the driverside is still good.the cv's havnt started to pop yet.last time it was  4x4 was last winter.was going to start stripping the tracker down monday.

Quote from: samiam1969 on September 13, 2006, 07:01:10 AM

3. An option to the difficult-to-install metal bands requiring a special tool are Baker ties -- those long plastic cable-bundle securing devices.  The generic name escapes me right now -- many electrical supply houses call them Baker ties.  Get some extra-long ones that will wrap around the CV joint circumference.   I have a set of Baker ties on my '93 Sidekick that have been doing the job for over a year now with no problems.

Hope this helps!

Are you talking about CABLE TIES? That's what I use. They do the job pretty well, just make sure they're tight.

Quote from: ack on September 13, 2006, 04:30:44 PM

Quote from: samiam1969 on September 13, 2006, 07:01:10 AM

3. An option to the difficult-to-install metal bands requiring a special tool are Baker ties -- those long plastic cable-bundle securing devices.  The generic name escapes me right now -- many electrical supply houses call them Baker ties.  Get some extra-long ones that will wrap around the CV joint circumference.   I have a set of Baker ties on my '93 Sidekick that have been doing the job for over a year now with no problems.

Hope this helps!

Are you talking about CABLE TIES? That's what I use. They do the job pretty well, just make sure they're tight.

Yeah!  That's it! Them things!

Odd how you can remember what they are called when one orders them but not in normal "conversation".  Thanks!

I picked up the boot kit at O'Reilys today for $8.00 (USD). Seems reasonable enough. I just hope it goes well. I'll be 40 miles from the nearest auto parts store when I do this. Can be kinda problematic when you need more parts or got the wrong one to start with.

Cheers.

one final tip (seeing that the opinion on the  Chilton book is apparently as bad as mine on the Haynes book when it comes to TracKicks):

I jacked up the front and put it on jackstands  to allow the suspension to droop.

Then I jacked up the passenger's side under the a-arm and removed the calipers, the strut and then the three bolts on the bottom of the end of the a-arm (kinda tough to do and possibly optional).  Then I gently lowered the a-arm to prevent the spring from shooting out and maiming someone.  From that point, you should be able to pull the CV axle out of the hub and then out of the axle housing.

The driver's side is simpler in that you could probably do it by unbolting the CV shaft from the stubshaft at the plate (three bolts), removing the calipers, disconnecting the strut, then wiggling the CV axle out of the back of the hub.

REMEMBER!  you'll have to take off your locking hub mechanisms and remove the circlip on both of the axles in order to pull them through the hub bearings!

Hope this helps!

Update: OK, it went pretty well for the most part. The boot is replaced and it looks OK. The half-shaft itself is pretty simple. The Chilton's manual was fairly good, no obvious mistakes.

I do have one problem - I took the cap off the hub (stock Aisin manual) now I can't get it back together correctly. I'm not sure what to call the parts.. the cap and mechanism is intact and still seems to work but I can't figure out how to make it engage the part that slides that actually makes the connection beween the shaft and the outer hub. 

I printed off the article on rebuilding the hubs that Ack's faq points to. (thanks again Ack!) unfortunately it didn't have an exploded view diagram. It names the parts but without a diagram I can't figure it out. 

For now it is OK, it is always engaged. At some point I want to drive it on the road so I need to figure out how to put it back together right so that I can disengage it. Any advise would be appreciated. At some point I have to redo the other side as it has been stuck in the locked position since I bought the kick so I have to learn how to do this.