Here is what I am looking at possibly buying......
Here is all the info I have gotten from the guy, so far.....

1992 Sidekick Limited, 4 door.
I'll check on the miles, but believe it is around 120k.
5 speed, good transmission and 4x4
Power locks and windows, cruise, AC does cool.
Body looks good. A couple scratches in clear coat on the sides. No large dents,
but a few dings.
Interior is good. Leather seats are good with a few seams needing to be
restitched in front seats. good carpet. no window issues
Starting issue started about a month ago and now it will run very rough or not
start randomly. One of 20 tries it will start and run perfectly.?
Clean and clear title
more info....
The starting issue.....it will do 1 of 3 things: 1) it will start and run/drive fine, 2) it will turn over fine but never starts, 3) it will start but will run really rough, not driveable.
fuel filter was recently replaced

I believe this has the 16V in it as well.



What, more than likely, is the starting/running problem?
My guesses are that is is possibly the ECM or a fuel problem (water in the gas or fuel pump?)....yes, no, maybe?  Could one of these cause the symptoms I described?  What else could cause the symptoms?

Worst case scenario, assuming it will take the most expensive fix to fix the starting/running problem, what is a reasonable price to buy it as is?

No one has any ideas/opinions?

I use to have exactly the same problems with my '93 Sidekick.

The cause was a defective throttle position sensor.  The TPS is in fact just a little switch/variable resistor who tell the CPU if the throttle is open or close.

It tend to get stucked.  So it tell the computer than the throttle is already open or already close even if it's not the case.  The result, of course, is that the throttle refuse to obey and the truck doesn't start or overrun or start well but stall when you make a quick stop.

I replaced it.  It take only about 10 minutes, and the problem was solved completely 

That part is about 150$ and its well known to be a problem on Zukis 

Hope it can help.

Ok, thanks for the info.  The guy said that it will either start and run perfectly fine, or won't start at all (just continuously turns over but never will "hit" and start), or it will start but run really crappy (engine misses, might have to keep your foot on the gas pedal to keep it running).  Does that sound like the symptoms that you were having?  I guess maybe the TPS could be partially working...is that possible?

I haven't found out when the last time is that he had done a tune up either....I figure it could be related to the plugs, wires, cap, rotor maybe?

I also haven't found out if he has checked for any error codes either. 

It doesn't sound like he has done too much diagnosis on fixing the problem....other than just asking some of his buddies for suggestions about what might be wrong.

From the 91/92 FSM I have for sale  :

Engine cranks, but will not start or hard to start:
Faulty Plugs
Blown Fuse for ignition coil
loose connection or disconnection of lead wires or high tension cord(s)
Cracked rotor or cap
Faulty ignition coil
Faulty noise suppressor
Faulty CAS
Faulty igniter
Faulty ECM

Hard starting:
All of above plus
EFI system out of order (whole other diag list)
loose connectio or disconnection of vacuum hoses
valve train & timming problem (seems doubtful based n your description)

Improper Engine Idling or engine fails to Idle:
all of above plus
Faulty ESA system
Malfunctioning EGR valve
Malfunctioning PCV valve

Waayyyy back when I owned the 92, it was still under warranty, I had a problem with it cutting out and then nott starting back up straight away.  I don't exaclty remember what sensor it was, but it took them a couple times to figure it out because it was terribly intermittent.  I'd go for the CAS first because it is a common element in the above conditions.

BTW CAS=crank angle sensor located in the distributer.  It's a hall effect element and magnet which is tied directly to the ECM. It's used to calculate the engine speed and also used as one of the signals to control EFI and timing.

I'd start by checking that, then, if it were my sami I'd say ECM next.

HTH

Well, in the case of my faulty TPS, the problem was a crack in the middle of the ribbon-like resistor inside de sensor.

Sometimes it was running just fine, sometimes the vibration from the engine crack open the resistor and the problems begins.

Anyway, that can be checked very easyly with just an ohmmeter.  I saw the checking method in a good old Haynes maintenance book.  Specs are in there too.

It can be a host of sensor/ecu/wiring problems,  it needs to be run through the proper dianostic routine for proper diagnosis..


or you could waste hundreds of dollars by throwing parts at it till it fixes itself... (silly)

It can be a host of sensor/ecu/wiring problems,  it needs to be run through the proper dianostic routine for proper diagnosis..


or you could waste hundreds of dollars by throwing parts at it till it fixes itself... (silly)

I plan on doing the proper diagnostic procedure.  I was just looking for some input on what it could be (so I can get an idea on how much it may cost to fix) before I buy it.
Thanks.