I have seen posts on several forums stating that hydraulically operated clutches are self-adjusting.  After studying the manuals to see how they are constructed, I cannot understand how they can be self-adjusting.  It appears to me that the slave clutch will be returned to its fully retracted position by the clutch release shaft return spring when the clutch pedal is released.  As the clutch disk wears, the throw-out bearing will have to move further to disengage the clutch, meaning the pedal will have to be pushed further.  Eventually, the pedal will go to the floor when the disk is worn enough.

Which, incidentally, is what mine is about to do.  There is no adjustment on the slave cylinder end, other than relocating the actuator arm on its splined shaft.  That does not seem to be a reasonable thing to do.  There are a few threads on the connection to the input rod of the master cylinder.  I could move that rod in an eighth of an inch or so, but I'm not sure that is intended to be an adjustment.  Changing the stroke of the piston is likely to lead to leaks.

The car has 100k miles on it.  I put the last 11k on it.  I don't know its previous history, though I suspect 10k or so of its miles were while being towed by a snowbird.  The clutch operation has not changed drastically since I bought it.  Seems like the clutch should last longer than 100k miles, but maybe the previous owner abused it.

Anyone have any comments on my analysis of the situation or have any suggestions before I bite the bullet and replace the clutch?  Thanx.

edit:  BTW, the car is a '98 Sport

Usually hydrolic clutches are adjustable under the dash.  You adjust the rod that comes from the master cylinder and attaches to the pedal assembly.

A 100k miles is great for a clutch.  It really depends on the driving conditions.  City driving will wear out a clutch faster that highway driving.

As for hyd. clutches.  They are self adjusting.  Either there's a spring holding the arm and through out bearing tight against the clutch or there is a pressure valve that hold the smallest amout of pressure in the lines.  As the clutch wears the slave cylinder adjusts out farther and doesn't return all the way.

I would be looking at replacing the clutch with the info you have given

Hydraulic clutchs are not adjustable that i know of.  cable clutchs are, but not hydraulic.
100K for a clutch is really good.  Just make sure that you replace it befor you are running clutch springs on fly wheel...then you have to resurface it.  After all thast one more thing to take off, and one more thing to spend some money on.

millski

Just to add my 2 cents,  I agree with the two posts before me.

100K on a clutch is NOTHING to complain about.


I find it funny,  in the old days, we would be jazzed if ANYTHING on a car and the car in general lasted 100K miles...

Just goes to show you, cars ARE BETTER THAN THEY EVER WERE...  when the oldtimers say "they don't make'em like they used to"   I always answer....... THANK GOD!!!!


The hydraulic clutches are self adjusting, just like hydraulic brakes.  When they get that worn... replace them.  100K on a clutch is good to great. According to how it was driven

Its all done by black magic and seal design.

100K on a clutch is NOTHING to complain about.

Since I don't know the history of the car, I will agree.  However, the last one I bought new and kept long enough was still going strong at 130k on the original clutch.

Then I would say that you drive very reasonably.. did you ever off road it??

I actually have 117 on a stock clutch... I just thought I was lucky.


I remember a Pinto I had in 1977,  I got about 25K out of the clutch.. LOL.. but I was 16.


Clutch life is mostly dependant on usage, and you NEVER know how it was driven before you.


I am also wondering about your clutch cylinders, both master and slave....  worth checking into.

Then I would say that you drive very reasonably.. did you ever off road it??

To be fair, I will have to admit that was not on a 4x4.  It was an '89 Mitsubishi Mirage, which rarely saw dirt roads.

I am virtually positive that my Sport was not off roaded at all.  It had no scratches or dings.  It also had a tow bar adapter on the front that reduced the ground clearance a bunch.  I guess the PO was just hard on clutches.

As for the cylinders--The master shows a small amount of fluid at the input end, but the fluid level in the reservoir has not changed noticeably since I bought the kick over a year ago.  I will probably change it myself anyway and watch the slave cylinder, which shows no sign of leaking.  Since my honeydew list is long and growing and there is no room in my garage, I will probably look for a reliable mechanic to swap out the clutch innards in a couple of weeks or so.

Follow-up for those interested:

I had the clutch disk, pressure plate, throw-out bearing and pilot bearing replaced and have driven it a couple of hundred miles.  Everything works ok.  The old disk still had lots of wear left.  Apparently there was a problem with the pressure plate, tho I didn't try to figure out what it was.