Hello Guest

Hagen widing

  • 2 Replies
  • 1201 Views

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

*

Offline TysonS

  • 383
  • 0
  • Gender: Male
  • www.funinbc.com
Hagen widing
« on: December 12, 2006, 05:21:17 PM »
ok, so from what i can tell i have a few quetions.

The only way this would work is you re drill holes only on the rear a arm bolt holes right?

Is it nessisary to weld washers on?  I don't have access to a welder and im wondering if it will be strong enough without it.

Untill I can break at passangers cv will be running the cv's in there stock sides without problems untill i get around to the drivers swap on both thingy?

I need this to stop fender rubbing.  Thanks

-Tyson
2 Dr. 91'  8v Sidekick| 3" Body Lift | 4" Gas Tank Lift | 3.5" Suspension Lift | Snorkel | Custom Bumpers | Sliders | 31" LTB's | Detroit | 4.24 Tcase | TT front locker soon

*

Offline chet

  • 556
  • 0
  • Zuki time!
Re: Hagen widing
« Reply #1 on: December 13, 2006, 08:49:20 AM »
you need to weld the washers on or the forst time you hit something like a log it will push the a arm back into the stock position.

you need to do the CV swap so you can add a spacer to make up the gap when you widen it out.
1991 4 door kick, 2" coil spacers, 30" Coopers, winch, locker, rust, dents, etc.

*

Offline TysonS

  • 383
  • 0
  • Gender: Male
  • www.funinbc.com
Re: Hagen widing
« Reply #2 on: December 13, 2006, 03:49:43 PM »
well, i guess that isn't going to happen, going to have to grind the fenders a little more
2 Dr. 91'  8v Sidekick| 3" Body Lift | 4" Gas Tank Lift | 3.5" Suspension Lift | Snorkel | Custom Bumpers | Sliders | 31" LTB's | Detroit | 4.24 Tcase | TT front locker soon